ROOP: ROOH’s Ode to Nostalgia
You’ve probably heard the name ROOH whispered by those in the know—the restaurant has been making waves in the city’s culinary scene for a few years now. ROOH has earned its stripes, gaining a “Plate” distinction in the 2020 Michelin Guide and a spot on many discerning foodie lists. Now, the team is taking things up a notch with their latest venture, ROOP—a tasting menu that delivers a journey through memories and places.
Meaning “beauty” in Hindi, ROOP invites patrons to dive into a thoughtful eight-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Rina Mallick, one of the brilliant minds behind ROOH, shared that many of these dishes are deeply connected to nostalgia. The menu draws inspiration from the vibrant streets of India, tapping into the flavors and cultural touchstones that have shaped countless experiences. With the collaboration of Michelin-starred Chef Mike Cornelissen (RijnZicht), ROOP offers an intriguing new take on Indian cuisine.
The menu kicks off with dishes rooted in Indian street food—a flight of pani puri followed by vada, a humble fritter that, according to Mallick, is particularly popular with students, holding a place similar to the one ramen occupies in the hearts of many Western students due to its affordability. For the third course, non-vegetarians will delight in a quick trip to Goa with a sea scallop that is light and flavorful. Caviar can be added as a supplement. We chose to let the flavors of the scallop shine on their own but are excited to try it with caviar next time.
If I had to pick one standout, it’s got to be the lamb served with papaya sorbet. I know, it sounds like something that shouldn’t work—but in the hands of Chef Mike Cornelissen, it’s pure magic. The richness of the lamb, perfectly balanced by the cool, unexpected sweetness of the sorbet, creates a combination that’s as surprising as it is delicious.
And then there’s the chicken royal. The chicken itself is sublime, but if you’re in the mood to treat yourself (and let’s be honest, you’re here, so you should), you can top it with truffle. There’s also a mushroom-based counterpart for those leaning towards a vegetarian meal, and yes, it too can be adorned with truffle.
Many of these dishes are deeply connected to memories, both personal and cultural. As you taste them, you’re transported—not just to the bustling markets of India, but to places in your own memory where flavor and nostalgia intertwine. For me, it’s impossible not to draw parallels to my own experiences with Mexican cuisine—the same addictive dance of sweet, spicy, and acidic that just works. The food in my memories translates every flavor into Spanish: take their guava mocktail, for instance. One sip, and I was instantly reminded of a margarita.
In my opinion, there is no amount of travel or research that can create that gravitational force that the dishes of a mother tongue have over one’s soul. There’s an imprint that the food of our mothers and grandmothers leave, that cannot be artificially recreated, which is why felt lucky to have Mallick as our guide, as she generously explained touches like the mandala—a celebratory and symbolic design used to plate the lamb dish—that could have easily gone unnoticed without her insight. There’s also a bit of fun theatrics– as this culinary journey comes to a close, ROOH ensures the finale is just as memorable as the beginning. The Cracked Egg, where a dessert resembling an egg is cracked on your plate, and the Last Train Station, a nostalgic nod to the chai wallahs of India serving chai in bustling train stations, yet distinctly American in its campfire-style presentation, close out a meal that has taken you from the streets of India to the heart of the U.S.
This connection to memory and place is what makes the ROOP experience so special. It’s not just about what’s on the plate—it’s about where those flavors take you. And the best part? The whole experience is incredibly accessible at just $95 for the tasting menu, with wine pairings for $55.
Alongside this new tasting initiative, ROOH will also introduce a refreshed a la carte menu by Executive Chef Rohit Thaledi, featuring new dishes such as Saag Paneer Kofta, Goan Crab Cakes with Xec Xec Sauce, and Gulab Jamun Cheesecake.
ROOP is available Sunday to Wednesday. Make your reservation on OpenTable.
