Chiles en Nogada: The Dish of a Revolution

Foto: Bertha Herrera para La Vitamina T

 

 

 

If you’re fortunate enough to find yourself in Mexico late in the fall, you’ll likely see chiles en nogada gracing many menus. Literally “peppers in walnut sauce,” this seasonal delicacy, originating from the state of Puebla, first made its appearance in the 19th century to celebrate Mexico’s independence from Spain.

Part prayer, part recipe, the lore goes that Augustinian nuns from Atlixco, Puebla, improvised this dish in honor of the Mexican caudillo (and later Mexico’s first emperor) Agustín de Iturbide. He stopped in Puebla on his way to Mexico City after signing the treaty in Veracruz that secured Mexico’s independence. Appropriately, the dish mirrors the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag on the plate.

Part warrior, part angel, chiles en nogada involves stuffing poblano peppers with a mix of meat and fruits, creating a medley of textures with every bite. The dish is topped off with a light, delicious walnut sauce, enhanced with pomegranate seeds, available in central Mexico until mid-September.

Part indigenous, part Spanish, this dish embodies Mexico—it’s like a culinary snapshot, showcasing the nation’s rich contrasts and historical complexities.

Don’t miss the chance to try it.

 

We recommend:

In Mexico City:

La Hostería de Santo Domingo 

El Cardenal 

Hacienda de San Ángel Inn

La Parrilla Leonesa

Nicos

El Tajín

 

In Chicago:

I wrote an article for Eater Chicago that is periodically updated.

 

*Military leader

 

 

Originally published on 8/11/2013. Updated 9/8/2024.