At an age when most people are still figuring out the line between ambition and hustle, Chef Ambrocio Gonzalez was quietly building an empire.

Now, not even 40, he’s opening his fourth La Catedral Café in River East.

I’ve followed Gonzalez’s  career for years — from before the original La Catedral in Little Village became a line-out-the-door mainstay, to his expansion across the city. It was never just about feeding people. Ambrocio wove himself into the fabric of the neighborhood, earning every inch of trust and respect along the way.

But what truly sets him apart is how he does everything. From designing the menu to selecting the art on the walls, Ambrocio leaves no detail untouched. He doesn’t hire decorators. The tiles, the ornaments, the plates — they come from Mexico, just like him.

He now brings that same heart to River East — a neighborhood more known for polished lobbies and corporate cafés. This isn’t where you’d expect a place like La Catedral to land. And that’s exactly the point. Ambrocio is pushing beyond the expected, giving River East something it didn’t know it needed.

Here, breakfast remains the headliner. His acclaimed chilaquiles made the trip from Little Village, as did the enfrijoladas— tortillas smothered in a rich bean sauce, topped with sour cream and salsa. I always add chicken to mine. Alongside the chilaquiles enfrijoladas are of my favorite breakfast dishes, and not an easy one to find on menus across the city.

The space, like the food, bring a sense of space and memory. In Little Village, the walls are filled with gifts from customers — religious icons, milagros, paintings to go with the restaurant’s name and church-like vibe. In River East, the art is also co-curated and personal, as most of those cherished pieces have made the journey here, carrying memory and meaning into this next chapter.

Ambrocio is more than a chef. He’s a keeper of culture. A man who knows that the power of place isn’t only in its polish, but in its purpose.

La Catedral Café, 400 E. Randolph St. Opens May 15.