I’ve been to Jaleo a few times before. I know the drill: the colorful atmosphere, the endless parade of small plates, each offering a small window into Spain’s soul. The restaurant, bearing José Andrés’ name, carries a pedigree.   This time, something felt different. The reason? Chef John Borras, who was recently drafted as Jaleo’s executive chef. If you’ve followed Borras’s culinary journey, as I have for over a decade, you know the kind of power this chef and restaurateur (1492 Tapas and Bar, Macarena) brings to a kitchen. His understanding and reverence for Spanish tradition is undeniable, but what sets him apart is his fearless reinterpretation of it. From the moment I sat down, it was clear he had injected new life into the offerings. Take the pan con tomate, for instance. It’s a dish that’s as simple as it gets—ripe, fresh tomatoes on bread, with a drizzle of…