• Chiles en Nogada: The Dish of a Revolution

    Foto: Bertha Herrera para La Vitamina T

    If you’re lucky enough to be in Mexico in late summer and early fall, you’ll probably catch chiles en nogada on menus everywhere. Literally “peppers in walnut sauce,” this seasonal showstopper hails from Puebla and first appeared in the 19th century as a tribute to Mexico’s independence from Spain.

    Part recipe, part prayer, legend has it that Augustinian nuns in Atlixco scrambled to honor Agustín de Iturbide, the caudillo* turned emperor, when he passed through Puebla after sealing the deal on independence in Veracruz. They improvised a dish that, like waved the flag on the plate: green poblano peppers, white walnut sauce, and ruby-red pomegranate seeds.

    Bite into one and it’s part warrior, part angel. The poblano is stuffed with a mix of meats and fruits (apples, pears, peaches, maybe even plantains) that somehow works. Then it’s finished with that silky walnut sauce and jeweled with pomegranate seeds, which only show up in Mexican markets through mid-September. Blink, and you’ll miss it.

    And like any dish worth fighting over, chiles en nogada comes with its own rivalry: capeados (egg-battered and fried) vs. sin capear (left in their natural roasted state). Purists will die on their hill for one or the other, but both versions will knock you sideways.

    This dish is part indigenous, part Spanish, and entirely Mexican: a culinary snapshot of a nation built on contrasts, complexity, and sheer poetry.

    If you see it, order it.

    You are welcome.

    We recommend:

    In Mexico City:

    El Bajío

    El Cardenal 

    El Tajín

    Hacienda de San Ángel Inn

    La Hostería de Santo Domingo 

    La Parrilla Leonesa

    Nicos

     

    In Chicago:

    A few years ago I wrote an article for Eater Chicago highlighting a few versions of this dish that are worth trying. Some of them are available year-round. I recently had a great one at Istmo.

    *Military leader

    Originally published on 8/11/2013. Updated 9/15/2025.

  • Chasing Mole: chef Geno Bahena and the Love that Loved him Back

    Chef Geno Bahena of Manchamanteles in Logan Square debuts a mole rojo pizza, created in collaboration with Grumpy Pies.

    In the late 80s, when “Mexican food” in the U.S. was still too often reduced to nachos and margaritas, chef Geno Bahena was in the kitchen doing something far more daring. Bahena helped open Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, two restaurants that redefined the conversation and proved Mexican food could be as nuanced, layered, emotional and intellectual as any cuisine in the world.

    But this chef’s story begins far earlier, in Guerrero, Mexico. At the age of ten, he stood beside his grandmother as she stirred a pot of mole rojo. Built from 32 ingredients, roasted, toasted, ground, and coaxed together, this regional delicacy was “festive, seductive and impossibly complex.” Mole wasn’t just food; it was memory and ritual, and it became the north star of his life. By twelve, Bahena cooking on his own, bound by strict rules: eat everything you make, and leave the kitchen spotless. His first dish, chilaquiles verdes, was an instant success.

    Rebellion had become freedom, and freedom had become passion.

    As a teenager, young Geno fell in love. The feeling was real, but the story never unfolded. Heartbreak only sharpened his passion for cooking. When he told his father he wanted to be a professional cook, he found no encouragement. Cooking, his father believed, wasn’t a path worth following. Still, he offered a bittersweet blessing: “Go to the United States. If it doesn’t work, come back. I’ll help you.”

    So, Bahena left home trying to outrun heartache and chasing a dream no one else believed in but him.

    In Chicago, he tried to apply for college, but admissions were closed. A teacher asked him to cook. He made mole, no recipe, no measurements, just memory. That dish opened doors.

    The road was far from easy. Twice he nearly dropped out of school for lack of money. Once, without bus fare, the same mentor who saw his talent and opened a spot in college for him, pressed cash into his hand. When Frontera Grill was about to open, his school sent him to practice there. Expecting an entry-level job, he was offered the sous chef position instead. Afraid he was not ready, he turned it down. According to Bahena, three months later, Rick Bayless offered the position to him again, this time with a salary, a uniform and a place on the team. Bahena said yes.

    By 1999, he was ready to build a kitchen of his own. Izcaputzalco began with just 40 seats, then quickly grew to 140 as word spread. The menu celebrated Mexico with regional flavors drawn from all 32 states and a signature rotation of Oaxaca’s seven legendary moles, each paired with unexpected proteins like guinea hen, rabbit, venison, and poussin.

    When guests wanted more, Geno answered with Chilpancingo: bold and ambitious in River North. From there, his horizon kept expanding. He lent his hand and vision to 36 restaurants nationwide, from California to Boston to Arkansas. Most recently, he introduced Manchamanteles to Logan Square. Named for Oaxaca’s “tablecloth stainer” mole, both sweet and spicy, it shows Bahena is still finding new ways to express his craft.

    That craft carried him beyond restaurants as well, to stages like the White House and the U.S. Capitol, where he cooked for 1,000 guests.

    Today, Chef Geno Bahena is recognized as one of Chicago’s great voices in Mexican food. Some call him a mole icon, but for him, recognition was never the point. What mattered was honoring ingredients, celebrating tradition, and gathering people at the table: a forty-year history of turning memory into craft and craft into connection. And in that long pursuit, he not only caught his dream; he found in cooking the one love that never left, the love that loved him back.

  • Slice of the Suburbs: WG Pizzas Brings their Tavern Style to Lakeview

    Ben Glazer and his sister, Jessie Glazer, co-owners of WG Pizzas, at their new Lakeview location.

    The suburbs have entered the chat — and Chicago’s pizza scene might just be better for it. WG Pizzas, the city cousin of North Shore’s mainstay Alex’s Washington Gardens, has opened its first Chicago location — bringing its tavern-style pizza to a city that takes its pies seriously.

    Tavern-style pizza is known for a thin, cracker-like crust and its signature square-cut slices. Born in neighborhood bars and taverns, this pizza is meant for sharing and it is inherently relaxed: easy to hold with one hand, drink in the other.

    Siblings Ben and Jessie Glazer, along with husband-and-wife duo Michael and Franny Kaulentis have taken over a cozy corner in Lakeview, turning what started as a ghost kitchen test run in Avondale, into a full-fledged restaurant.

    “The pizza is good enough for the city,” said Ben Glazer. So, they wanted to share. And so far, the response has been better than the siblings expected.

    Jessie, who’s most often at the restaurant, says that the neighborhood has received them well, and that she is excited to see the same faces again and again.

    And it’s no wonder. This is the kind of slice that is crispy throughout. No soggy center. The ingredients hold up their end, too: high-quality, locally sourced toppings that don’t skimp, and a fresh sauce that leans sweet. We ordered one chopped salad with anything from pepperoni to mozzarella and garbanzo beans — thoughtfully dressed and generous enough for two.

    Don’t skip the breadsticks. They are buttery, crispy, warm, and begging to be pulled apart— I had to summon every ounce of self-control not to inhale the whole batch.

    These breadsticks are buttery, crispy, warm and impossible to share.

    The restaurant’s Guest Chef Pizza Series adds an unexpected twist, inviting local culinary voices to collaborate on monthly specials. Past highlights include a black truffle and mushroom pie from Kimski’s chef Won Kim, a bold quesabirria pizza by Frontera Grill’s Jauvaneeka Jacobs, and a Steak + Ale pizza created with Links Tap Room. These specials are also featured at the Highwood location so nobody misses out.

    This month, Chef Iván Valdez (Taquizas Valdez) offers a July special: an al pastor pizza layered with pork al pastor, garlic cream sauce, a pineapple-habanero relish, mozzarella, and cilantro. A spicy salsa roja served on the side seals the deal — I’ve already gone back for seconds.

    WG’s guest chef series gets wild this month with an al pastor pizza from Chef Iván Valdez.

    Pineapple on pizza is still taboo for some — it used to be for me, too — until a meal at Crosta in Milan changed my mind. Their version, smoky pork shoulder tangled with sweet pineapple, spicy sauce and fresh cilantro, made the case for breaking the rules. WG’s take may ruffle a few purist feathers, but it’s hard to argue with flavor that good.

    There are more than a dozen pizzas on the menu, alongside rotating specials, salads and desserts. And seriously — don’t skip the breadsticks.

    Ben’s go-to is the Italian sausage pizza. Jessie’s favorite? The Pizza A La Vodka — a creation from Chef Max Robbins of Lettuce Entertain You, made with vodka sauce, Calabrian chiles, basil, smoked mozzarella and Parmesan.

    You can build your own, too.

    Lately, there’s been a trend of city chefs bringing their big-city polish to suburban downtowns. WG flips the script — and proves the suburbs can return the favor.

    WG Pizzas is BYOB and closed on Tuesdays. Take out is available on popular apps. 

    2819 N Southport Ave, Chicago, IL 60657

     

  • Chef Cristian Orozco and the Revival of Suburban Dining

    At Five O Four in Glen Ellyn, Chef Cristian Orozco Is Turning a Suburban Kitchen Into a Quiet Force

    When talking about the dining scene in Chicago, it’s easy to overlook the suburbs. But that’s exactly where some of the most thoughtful, quietly ambitious kitchens are taking shape today. Chef Cristian Orozco is living proof that excellence doesn’t always demand a downtown address. Sometimes, it’s tucked behind a construction zone. Sometimes, it’s quietly cooking just west of the skyline.

    Orozco was born just 10 minutes from the Guatemalan border with Chiapas, in a place where flavors, histories and borders blur. That in-between space — culturally, geographically — is still where he cooks from.

    When he first arrived in the United States, kitchens weren’t about dreams — they were about survival. He washed dishes, bussed tables, prepped vegetables.

    A job at a country club in Wisconsin gave him his first structured restaurant experience. By the time he became a sous chef, something had shifted. Cooking wasn’t just a job. It was a calling.

    That calling led him to Chicago — and to Acadia, a now-shuttered fine-dining heavyweight. For Orozco, it was a crash course in precision, pressure and ingredients. He was given a shot because, when asked when he could start, he pulled out his kitchen tools on the spot. This is also where he first heard the phrase “Michelin star.” He didn’t know exactly what it meant — but he knew it was where he wanted to go.

    From Acadia, he moved to Tzuco, under Carlos Gaytán, where he reconnected with his Latin American roots and sharpened his technique. Then came North Pond, where storytelling and sourcing local weren’t mere trends — they were gospel.

    After a well-received pop-up at Frida Room, fate brought him to Glen Ellyn’s Five O Four. He arrived as a consultant. He stayed. As an owner.

    It wasn’t perfect. The menu had more than 100 items. Months of roadwork had left the entrance nearly inaccessible. Most people would’ve bailed. Orozco doubled down.

    His solution? Cut the noise. He whittled the menu down to 25 sharply tuned dishes — bold, seasonal, Latin at the core, with French touches, Asian flourishes, and a Mexican soul.

    Like a young singer whose voice aches with emotion he hasn’t lived through yet, Orozco’s cooking does not belong to someone barely in his 30s.

    You taste it in the acid of his housemade giardiniera, inspired by Guatemalan curing methods, served alongside the wagyu beef tartare with chipotle mayo and avocado.

    You see it in the edible flowers that he grows in his own patio and the nasturtium delicately placed atop the most perfect tetela —placed with the same precision as a brushstroke. It’s not garnish. It’s a quiet act of beauty.

    The tetelas themselves — two triangle-shaped corn masa delicacies — are filled with Oaxacan cheese, seasonal mushrooms, avocado mousse, sour cream, and a creamy pinto bean purée.

    Every dish reflects Orozco’s flair for presentation: smoke swirls around some, while others arrive chilled by liquid nitrogen. There’s undeniable drama at play — but it’s never empty and it always enhances the experience.

    And for Orozco, food is only half the story. The rest is people.

    His mission is to build leaders — especially from the same communities he came from.

    Five O Four isn’t just a restaurant. It’s an opportunity — for him, for his team, and for a suburban dining scene learning to stand on its own. Orozco is helping it find its voice.

    And it speaks with a kind of quiet grace that doesn’t ask for permission.

    It’s not loud.

    But much like his food, it holds great promise.

     

    Five O Four Kitchen

    504 Crescent Blvd, Glen Ellyn, IL 60137

  • Taquería Chingón Has a New Home in Fulton Market

    Taquería Chingón´s chef Marcos Ascencio

    Something old, something new, and something good is happening in Fulton Market.

    Taquería Chingón has a new home. After shuttering their Bucktown location in 2024, they’ve taken over the former home of Cemitas Puebla at 817 W. Fulton Market,  and if that name rings a bell, it should.

    In a gesture equal parts homage and culinary flex, Chingón has added cemitas to its taco menu. For the uninitiated, a cemita isn’t just a sandwich. It’s Puebla on a bun — a sesame-crusted roll, usually stuffed with pulled meat, stacked high with avocado, smoky chipotle, cheese and a wild tangle of the earthy, fragrant papalo (if you’re lucky). It’s crunchy, creamy, spicy. Chingón.

    The eatery’s take comes with a chicken milanesa (a breaded and fried chicken cutlet). The homage to Puebla doesn’t end there. The menu features a taco árabe made with lamb and served on a flour tortilla, a nod to Puebla’s Lebanese culinary influence.

    Other highlights include an assortment of tortas, such as a steak torta and a torta ahogada — a dish that’s been showing up on more Chicago menus lately. Chingón’s version adds a twist: melted raclette.

    The new space is spacious, bright and built to feed a city. A massive kitchen anchors the restaurant, giving the team room to push boundaries and — importantly — cater. And with a kitchen like that, it’s not hard to imagine them feeding everything from art parties to tech launch lunches.

    Taquería Chingón still keeps its soul intact, but there’s a certain swagger to this next chapter — like they know they’ve earned the right to stretch their legs.

    We were there on opening day, the line was out the door, and the message was clear: Chingón’s not just back — they’re just getting started.

  • From Little Village to River East: La Catedral Café Brings Heart to the High-Rises

    At an age when most people are still figuring out the line between ambition and hustle, Chef Ambrocio Gonzalez was quietly building an empire.

    Now, not even 40, he’s opening his fourth La Catedral Café in River East.

    I’ve followed Gonzalez’s  career for years — from before the original La Catedral in Little Village became a line-out-the-door mainstay, to his expansion across the city. It was never just about feeding people. Ambrocio wove himself into the fabric of the neighborhood, earning every inch of trust and respect along the way.

    But what truly sets him apart is how he does everything. From designing the menu to selecting the art on the walls, Ambrocio leaves no detail untouched. He doesn’t hire decorators. The tiles, the ornaments, the plates — they come from Mexico, just like him.

    He now brings that same heart to River East — a neighborhood more known for polished lobbies and corporate cafés. This isn’t where you’d expect a place like La Catedral to land. And that’s exactly the point. Ambrocio is pushing beyond the expected, giving River East something it didn’t know it needed.

    Here, breakfast remains the headliner. His acclaimed chilaquiles made the trip from Little Village, as did the enfrijoladas— tortillas smothered in a rich bean sauce, topped with sour cream and salsa. I always add chicken to mine. Alongside the chilaquiles enfrijoladas are of my favorite breakfast dishes, and not an easy one to find on menus across the city.

    The space, like the food, bring a sense of space and memory. In Little Village, the walls are filled with gifts from customers — religious icons, milagros, paintings to go with the restaurant’s name and church-like vibe. In River East, the art is also co-curated and personal, as most of those cherished pieces have made the journey here, carrying memory and meaning into this next chapter.

    Ambrocio is more than a chef. He’s a keeper of culture. A man who knows that the power of place isn’t only in its polish, but in its purpose.

    La Catedral Café, 400 E. Randolph St. Opens May 15.

  • Why We Keep Going Back to Sfera

    Sfera is a Dolce Gabbana daydream

    Walking into Sfera feels like stepping into a Dolce & Gabbana ad—rich tile, yellows, blues, and  greens. Lemons, oranges and  Moor’s heads lining the shelves (two large heads used to be at the counter making the entrance more dramatic, but they seem to have been relocated). Sunlight pouring through the windows.

    The first time I went, I thought, someone really cares here. Not in the curated-for-Instagram way, but in the flavor-first kind of way.

    Everything is made fresh. The focaccia is baked in-house. The soups are flavorful and clearly made from scratch.

    The offerings are focused, but intentional.  There’s the sfincione, a thick-cut Sicilian-style pizza with a golden cheese crust. And the arancini—crisp-fried risotto balls—filled with anything from meat to mushrooms, always with a dipping sauce on the side.

    The sandwiches are honest but elegant. The artichoke tapenade, with a house-made citrusy spread, roasted red pepper and arugula, is one of my favorites. So is the slow-roasted chicken, layered with red pepper–almond relish and basil pesto, served on that same focaccia.

    The artichoke tapenade sandwich at Sfera. I brought this one home where I plated it.

    If you’re a meat lover, go for the mortadella and capicola, but I’d ask for the giardiniera on the side. You’ll want control over that kind of flavor punch.

    But the thing that knocks me out EVERY  time is the Sicilian hot chocolate. Spiced with citrus and made with their house-made syrup, it’s topped with three pillowy marshmallows that melt slowly as you sip. Decadent?  Yes—but not over the top and not too sweet. I know this is  technically a winter drink, but honestly? This gives me a  reason  to no  longer mind if it’s snowing in April.

    Desserts here aren’t an afterthought. There’s a cherry-pistachio cupcake filled with sweet ricotta and a candied Door County cherry, topped with crushed pistachios, and rose petals. It’s as beautiful as it is delicious. And you will have a hard time finding better cannoli in Chicago.

    The menu features vegan and gluten-free options, too—and none of them feel like a compromise.

    The hospitality is remarkable. We love that dogs are welcome well beyond the patio, which is always such a relief when your family includes four-legged members. Our favorite pup never leaves without a treat.

    Sfera also caters and ships—yes, they’ll send a little of this joy across the country.

    It’s rare to find a place that does both: beauty and heart, but Sfera pulls it off.

    And every time we go, we all  leave happy.

  • Alfonso Sotelo’s 5 Rabanitos Brings Pilsen’s Spirit to Hyde Park

    Chef Alfonso Sotelo opened 5 Rabanitos in Pilsen nearly a decade ago, showcasing his take on regional Mexican cuisine. Now in Hyde Park, that same spirit is at the center of the bustling space on 53rd Street — and yes, it’s already packed.

    A mural featuring five little radishes, or ‘rabanitos,’ a delightful homage to the nickname Sotelo and his four siblings earned as children while selling radishes at the market.

    The Frontera alum credits his team for making the second location happen — and a true family effort, with his son Fernando now managing the Hyde Park restaurant. Chef Sotelo’s menu carries over a few of the standout dishes that made the original a Pilsen favorite, alongside new additions like a fish taco and a crispy fried chicken taco.

    But we cannot stop thinking of  the shrimp chile relleno — a roasted poblano, lightly battered and filled with melted cheese, resting in a mellow, gently spicy sauce. It’s served alongside shrimp marinated in serrano and cilantro and freshly made tortillas.

    Chile relleno with shrimp is only available at 5 Rabanitos in Hyde Park.

    It’s fascinating to watch Mexican restaurants stretch beyond traditional enclaves — carving out space, gathering crowds, and thriving in new corners of the city.

    Find more on our recent story for  Eater Chicago.

  • A Life of Service: Why Taquizas Valdez Deserves a Spot on Your List

    The team behindt Taquizas Valdez

    Some meals feed your body. Others feed yo ur soul. That’s exactly what’s happening at Taquizas Valdez, a new spot in Irving Park where chef Iván Valdez, who has dedicated his life to service—first in the military, is now in the kitchen. The mission? It’s still the same. To serve with purpose. To honor where he comes from.

    Step inside, and you immediately feel that this place is personal. A mural on the wall tells Valdez’s story—his time in the Marine Corps his years in Chicago’s restaurant scene and, most importantly, his bond with his late mother, Rosa, whose dishes were creative and from the heart. This philosophy is the foundation of Taquizas Valdez.

    Just like the mural on the wall, the menu—a lineup of tacos and tortas—speaks to the places, experiences and people that have shaped Valdez’s life.

    Take the Americano taco, a nod to his Midwestern upbringing—steak and Muenster cheese folded into a flour tortilla. The cheese, rich and buttery, adds just enough tang to keep things interesting. Then there’s the pollo al limón—lime-marinated chicken thigh, onion, cilantro, avocado and Fresno chiles-— bright, punchy, a wink to Mexico’s obsession with lime.

    Then there’s the torta de chilaquiles—a Mexico City darling, from the same place Valdez’s parents call home, finally getting the love it deserves in Chicago. And the pambazo? Traditionally, it’s fried guajillo-soaked bread stuffed with potatoes and chorizo, but here, it’s filled with mushrooms. Not just any mushrooms—Chuy’s Mushrooms, named after one of the team members. A quiet nod to the hands that shape this kitchen and make the magic happen.

    We were lucky to be introduced to this restaurant at a special event. We kicked things off with chicken wings, slicked in a choice of salsa verde, salsa roja or mole—the kind of thing you instantly wish was a fixture on the menu. Then came some carne asada sope, and the shrimp ceviche with salsa macha, which was an unexpected but welcome hit.

     The tacos? The Americano and al pastor took the top spot for us. The al pastor had a nice marinade—not soggy, not overworked. The meat isn’t cubed. And while there’s no charcoal grill lending that signature kiss of char and the taste of fire that makes an al pastor irresistible if you’re craving one, this taco still hits the spot.

    Mushroom taco Chuy style
    Taco al Pastor

    All taco fillings are available as tortas. There’s a Build-Your-Own (BYO) Taco option—a nod to Mexico’s taquizas at casual gatherings, where tables overflow with fillings, salsas and toppings for everyone to craft their perfect bite. At Taquizas Valdez you have your choice of corn or flour tortilla, toppings and salsas.

    And that pizza oven? It came with the place, a relic from the restaurant before it. But Valdez saw something else—not just what it was, but what it could be. Now, it’s a bread oven, turning out fresh bolillos and pastries instead of pies. A quiet nod to Chicago’s deep pizza culture, with a twist. Because why the hell not? Reinvention is part of the story here—just like Valdez’s own.

     But what really makes Taquizas Valdez special isn’t just the food—it’s the people. The team here is incredible, bringing creativity, pride and heart to every dish. And at a time when connection and culture matter more than ever, places like this remind us that, in the end, community is what food is all about.