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UMMO: The Gift Chicago Didn’t Know it Needed
Award Winning Il Vincitore at UMMO Why UMMO is Chicago’s Italian Restaurant You Can’t Miss
You know that feeling when you come back from a place like Mexico City or Italy, and no matter where you eat, everything seems to fall just a bit short?
It’s that elusive mix of tradition, time, ingredients, and flavors—something you just can’t replicate, no matter how hard you try. To me, this is the poetry of food souvenirs: food is a piece of the land from which it comes.
Speaking of gifts, walking into UMMO after our trip to Bologna felt like unwrapping one. After a few bites I wondered, Are we actually back? That’s the power of chef Vincenzo Vottero—a culinary heavyweight with over 40 years of experience who joined the team in August. A Bologna native, he brings Michelin-star chops and a lifetime of passion to UMMO’s menu. His food isn’t just good– it’s what makes UMMO rise above the sea of Italian restaurants around Chicago.
At first glance, UMMO might seem like just another spot on a bar-lined street. By night, it even doubles as a nightclub, which might make you wonder if they’re serious about the food. But with chef Vottero at the helm, there’s no room for gimmicks, just beautifully crafted Italian cuisine.
We kicked things off with the mortadella, that kind of staple you’d see everywhere in Bologna. Sliced by Chef himself, the mortadella arrives on a fried gnocco, finished with 10-year aged balsamic and Parmigiano Reggiano.
In chef Vottero’s hands, comfort food becomes something worth talking about. You are here for the tortellini with truffle, fittingly called Il Vincitore, or “the winner”—an inventive twist on tortellini in brodo and a reminder that simplicity can be extraordinary.
Next up was the tortelli with lamb belly ragú and a hint of pesto that brings a taste of Liguria into the Bolognese fold. Vottero’s food pulls you in with its nostalgia, but each bite has something new to say.
Take the Ultravioletto Risotto, for example. It sounds modern, but it’s anchored in history, too. At its core is Pecorino di Fossa di Sogliano DOP, a cheese that goes back to the 12th century. This isn’t the kind of ingredient you casually toss into a dish. It’s buried underground to age, picking up flavors from the soil itself. Swap it out for another Pecorino, and you lose that earthy, mineral quality. This dish wasn’t available during our visit, but it’s on our list for next time.
Then came the desserts. First, a tomato mousse with basil sorbet—a pairing that evokes a summer garden, with a subtle sweetness that sneaks up on you. And then, a tiramisú unlike any other: almond cake soaked in coffee and amaretto, layered with mascarpone mousse, and drizzled with chocolate sauce.
Chef Vottero at UMMO is writing Italy’s culinary past in the present, blending tradition with his own creative edge. He understands that food is more than sustenance; it’s culture, memory, history, and place, all piled onto a plate.
And that’s what we want when we eat, isn’t it? To be transported. Chef Vincenzo Vottero does just that. It’s not just Italian food he serves—it’s Italy, brought to us like a gift from a man who knows it by heart.
UMMO:
22 W Hubbard Street, Chicago, IL
Make your reservations HERE. -
Celebrate Hanal Pixan at La Licor Panamericana: The Mayan Día de Muertos
Screenshot If you’re looking for a reason to gather with friends, taste something extraordinary, and honor Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, this is it—La Licor Panamericana is hosting an event that blends tradition, music, and food into a celebration of Hanal Pixan, the Mayan celebration of Día de Muertos.Drawing inspiration from the Pan-American Highway, which stretches from Mexico to Argentina, La Licor brings together the flavors of the Americas. But it doesn’t stop there—chef Juan Jiménez (Roister, S.K.Y., and The Chicago Club) is also passionate about introducing lesser-known traditions and cuisines, giving diners a chance to explore dishes and culinary highlights that don’t always get the spotlight. For this event, chef Jiménez will focus on the rich celebrations of southeastern Mexico. His goal is to honor traditional recipes while introducing new flavors and techniques that keep things exciting.Like Día de Muertos, Hanal Pixan, or “food for the souls,” is about honoring those who have come before us. But it’s also a vibrant celebration of life.At the heart of this event is none other than chef Pilar Alonso, a name synonymous with Quintana Roo’s rich culinary heritage. Pilar has spent her life mastering the regional flavors that define the cuisine of southeastern Mexico, and on this night, she’s bringing her expertise to Chicago. Her cooking isn’t just about food—it’s about storytelling. Every dish Pilar creates is a tribute to her heritage, full of depth and soul. This is your chance to experience her magic!The 4-course dinner, each paired with a craft cocktail, will take place on October 30th at 8 PM. The night will be filled with live music from Grammy-nominated Flor de Piel and a special menu featuring Zacapa, Don Julio, and Mezcal Unión. Tickets are available through Resy, but with limited spots, be sure to reserve yours here before they’re gone: https://shorturl.at/Q988O -
Rediscovering Jaleo: Chef John Borras Brings Spanish Tradition to Life
Chef John Borras, Jaleo´s new executive chef I’ve been to Jaleo a few times before. I know the drill: the colorful atmosphere, the endless parade of small plates, each offering a small window into Spain’s soul. The restaurant, bearing José Andrés’ name, carries a pedigree.
This time, something felt different. The reason? Chef John Borras, who was recently drafted as Jaleo’s executive chef.
If you’ve followed Borras’s culinary journey, as I have for over a decade, you know the kind of power this chef and restaurateur (1492 Tapas and Bar, Macarena) brings to a kitchen. His understanding and reverence for Spanish tradition is undeniable, but what sets him apart is his fearless reinterpretation of it. From the moment I sat down, it was clear he had injected new life into the offerings.
Take the pan con tomate, for instance. It’s a dish that’s as simple as it gets—ripe, fresh tomatoes on bread, with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. But here, it’s different. The bread comes out with a golden crust that’s just the right amount of crunchy and the perfect vehicle for the jamón de bellota, that legendary Ibérico ham from the famed pata negra pigs. These aren’t just any pigs. They’re acorn-fed, free-roaming, the Rolls Royce of pork, if you will. And you can taste the difference. Try the paletilla, which is a cut from the shoulder. The ham is tender and rich, with that perfect marbling that practically melts on your tongue. There’s a deep, nutty flavor from the acorn-based diet that makes this meat unlike anything else. And while you might find Ibérico ham elsewhere in Chicago, I have yet to encounter paletilla like this.
Then, there are the popular and ubiquitous croquetas. When done right, they’re addictive—crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside. At Jaleo, ham croquetas arrive golden and crisp, their centers creamy and almost molten. But it’s the pairing that takes them to the next level. Served with a side of paletilla ham, the combination is nothing short of divine. The contrast of the creamy croqueta interior, the crisp exterior, and the luscious, fatty ham is a perfect marriage of textures and flavors.
When you visit, don’t stop at the classics (though the ham croquetas are a must). Save room for the new dishes Borras has added to the menu—like the ribeye paella or the cachopo, Spain’s answer to Wiener Schnitzel.
Having chef Borras´food so close is such a treat! Let him take you on a culinary tour through Spain with his distinct, masterful touch, a nod to Spain’s love for communal, shareable food.
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ROOP: ROOH’s Ode to Nostalgia
You’ve probably heard the name ROOH whispered by those in the know—the restaurant has been making waves in the city’s culinary scene for a few years now. ROOH has earned its stripes, gaining a “Plate” distinction in the 2020 Michelin Guide and a spot on many discerning foodie lists. Now, the team is taking things up a notch with their latest venture, ROOP—a tasting menu that delivers a journey through memories and places.
Meaning “beauty” in Hindi, ROOP invites patrons to dive into a thoughtful eight-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Rina Mallick, one of the brilliant minds behind ROOH, shared that many of these dishes are deeply connected to nostalgia. The menu draws inspiration from the vibrant streets of India, tapping into the flavors and cultural touchstones that have shaped countless experiences. With the collaboration of Michelin-starred Chef Mike Cornelissen (RijnZicht), ROOP offers an intriguing new take on Indian cuisine.
The menu kicks off with dishes rooted in Indian street food—a flight of pani puri followed by vada, a humble fritter that, according to Mallick, is particularly popular with students, holding a place similar to the one ramen occupies in the hearts of many Western students due to its affordability. For the third course, non-vegetarians will delight in a quick trip to Goa with a sea scallop that is light and flavorful. Caviar can be added as a supplement. We chose to let the flavors of the scallop shine on their own but are excited to try it with caviar next time.
If I had to pick one standout, it’s got to be the lamb served with papaya sorbet. I know, it sounds like something that shouldn’t work—but in the hands of Chef Mike Cornelissen, it’s pure magic. The richness of the lamb, perfectly balanced by the cool, unexpected sweetness of the sorbet, creates a combination that’s as surprising as it is delicious.
And then there’s the chicken royal. The chicken itself is sublime, but if you’re in the mood to treat yourself (and let’s be honest, you’re here, so you should), you can top it with truffle. There’s also a mushroom-based counterpart for those leaning towards a vegetarian meal, and yes, it too can be adorned with truffle.
Many of these dishes are deeply connected to memories, both personal and cultural. As you taste them, you’re transported—not just to the bustling markets of India, but to places in your own memory where flavor and nostalgia intertwine. For me, it’s impossible not to draw parallels to my own experiences with Mexican cuisine—the same addictive dance of sweet, spicy, and acidic that just works. The food in my memories translates every flavor into Spanish: take their guava mocktail, for instance. One sip, and I was instantly reminded of a margarita.
In my opinion, there is no amount of travel or research that can create that gravitational force that the dishes of a mother tongue have over one’s soul. There’s an imprint that the food of our mothers and grandmothers leave, that cannot be artificially recreated, which is why felt lucky to have Mallick as our guide, as she generously explained touches like the mandala—a celebratory and symbolic design used to plate the lamb dish—that could have easily gone unnoticed without her insight. There’s also a bit of fun theatrics– as this culinary journey comes to a close, ROOH ensures the finale is just as memorable as the beginning. The Cracked Egg, where a dessert resembling an egg is cracked on your plate, and the Last Train Station, a nostalgic nod to the chai wallahs of India serving chai in bustling train stations, yet distinctly American in its campfire-style presentation, close out a meal that has taken you from the streets of India to the heart of the U.S.
This connection to memory and place is what makes the ROOP experience so special. It’s not just about what’s on the plate—it’s about where those flavors take you. And the best part? The whole experience is incredibly accessible at just $95 for the tasting menu, with wine pairings for $55.
Alongside this new tasting initiative, ROOH will also introduce a refreshed a la carte menu by Executive Chef Rohit Thaledi, featuring new dishes such as Saag Paneer Kofta, Goan Crab Cakes with Xec Xec Sauce, and Gulab Jamun Cheesecake.
ROOP is available Sunday to Wednesday. Make your reservation on OpenTable.
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Istmo Chicago – A Culinary Bridge to Oaxaca’s Heart
There’s a lot of buzz around Istmo, the new Oaxacan restaurant in Lakeview, and underneath it all, there’s real substance. Istmo bridges traditional Mexican cuisine with a refined and elevated approach, staying true to its roots while embracing a fresh vision.
The southeastern Mexican state of Oaxaca is known for its vibrant culinary traditions, incredible cuisine, and the heartwarming hospitality of its people. The name “Istmo” refers to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, one of Oaxaca’s seven regions. The food is diverse, unique, and equally delicious.
Right now, Istmo is serving lunch and brunch, and it plans to roll out dinner service soon. And believe me, you’ll want to be first in line when they do.
I couldn’t resist the enchiladas, as I’m a sucker for salsa verde, but the enfrijoladas, a dish from the region similar to enchiladas but drenched in a rich bean sauce, also looked tantalizing.
The enchiladas are enveloped in a thick, well-balanced sauce that’s rich and flavorful. While enchiladas are available all over Mexico, chef Carlos López Muñoz (Mexique, Leña Brava) brings this incredible salsa to life with his mother´s recipe, making it a truly special experience. The sauce alone is worth the visit—trust me on this one. Typically, I go for chicken enchiladas, but at Istmo, you can choose from cheese, chorizo, and steak.
We also sampled the huevos divorciados (divorced eggs) served with green and red salsa and enjoyed their hibiscus spritzer, a take on agua de jamaica. Playing on the fragrant cinnamon notes of café de olla and nodding to the Southeast Asian-Mexican fusion trend, Istmo also offers a Mexican chocolate chai.
One dish that truly stands out in my memory is their take on the traditional corn-based jello nicuatole, which I previously could only find at Kie-Go-La Nee, which focuses on food from the Sierra region. At Itsmo, the dish takes on a texture more like crème brûlée, offering a delightful twist on a classic. The plate is decorated with a buñuelo de viento, adding crunch to the creamy dessert. To many, this might only be a crispy and airy delight, but to me, it was a flashback to cherished moments and places.
Service was a bit slow when we published this article, but I assume it will get better as the kinks are worked out. Expect to wait for your food a bit. It will be worth it!
If you’re looking to add some excitement to your lunch or brunch routine, Istmo is the place to be. And keep an eye out for their dinner service—I’m betting it will be nothing short of spectacular.
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An Epic Tale of Culinary Fusion: Mirra at the Coach House
Mirra1742 W. Division Street
Chicago, IL 60622Just beyond the bustling vibe of Lilac Tiger in Uptown, lies a cozy nook known as the Coach House—a place that feels like stumbling into a secret. Here, James Beard Award nominee chef Zubair Mohajir blurs the lines between #Indian and #Mexican cuisines, spinning a tale as rich and intricate as the story of Mirra, or Caterina de San Juan, the muse behind the Pueblan traditions of the China Poblana. This fascinating tale threads everything together, making each dish a journey that’s as much about the plates as it is about the stories that inspired them.Once we found the entrance, we were promptly escorted to the counter. It is here, among treasures that narrate tales of culinary conquests and personal journeys, that each meal is crafted, transforming the dining experience into something resembling a private conversation. The eatery’s counter isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a place where every dish comes with a backstory.The 5-course journey began with a lentil puff that resembles chicharrón. Rich, crunchy, and a bit cheeky, this is an excellent accompaniment to an incredible scallop ceviche. Next up, we’ve got a sope served with cilantro and spinach chutney, all while sporting a tiger prawn like a crown. Then there’s the roti quesadilla, where the plot thickens. It’s like a handshake between distant lands, proving that when it comes to food, borders are merely lines on a map.
And just when you think it can’t get any better, the lamb barbacoa biryani comes in, a respectful nod to a regional style of barbacoa the Chef encountered during one of his trips to Mexico.Wrapping up the feast, there’s dessert and chai—the kind that tastes like it’s been brewed with a dash of love, straight from chef Mohajir’s grandmother’s kitchen.At $135, plus $60 more if you’re diving into the pairings, this is more than a meal; it’s an invitation to join chef Mohajir on a trip that’s as much about the stories behind the dishes as it is about the flavors. And let me tell you, it’s an invitation worth accepting.The menus change periodically, so there is always fun to discover.Reservations available through Tock.
Scallop ceviche with lentil puff. 
Roti quesadilla 
Lamb biryani 
Dessert! Chai tea with cake. 
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Taco Omakase: Where Street Food Meets Chef’s Table
Taco de Suadero at Cariño Chicago. Photo: Brenda Storch Omakase, that Japanese tradition which essentially means ‘I’m in your hands,’ feels like getting the VIP nod in a place where everybody knows your name—but here, it’s the chef who locks eyes with you and without a word, promises, ‘I’ve got this.’
Your job? Simply sit back, relax, and let the chef’s choice sweep you off your feet. Now, picture the omakase approach with a twist: taco omakase is a brilliant mash-up where the chef’s table meets the street food scene, each taco a surprise waiting to unravel.
I recently had the chance to dive into this at Cariño in Chicago (check out my article on Eater Chicago), where you can snag one of just seven coveted spots at the counter. Suddenly, you’re in the front row for Chef Norman Fenton’s culinary concert. The setlist? A lineup that swings between 8 and 12 courses, each act more thrilling than the last, all set to the rhythm of Mexico’s underground beats.
Masa shines as the headliner, transforming into an array of show-stopping numbers that each carry a whisper of tradition with a dash of bold. From a Wagyu beef taco with a salsa that will leave you downright speechless to a menu as unpredictable as it is thrilling, the whole experience is a roller coaster ride of comfort, excitement, and outright joy. Chef Fenton’s love affair with Mexican cuisine and overall culture is palpable, making every visit to Cariño (a term for affection in Spanish) not just a meal but an unforgettable journey of discovery and a celebration of cariño at every turn.
The offering is a great deal at $125 per person, which includes 2 cocktails and tip.
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Taste the Magic: A Whimsical Afternoon at the Willy Wonka-Inspired Chocolate Factory Tea
You’ve just double-dipped into the Wonka universe, first with Gene Wilder’s timeless charm, then with Timothée Chalamet’s fresh take. Now, you’re primed and ready because what’s next is an homage to these cinematic delights. A trip into a world where the magic of Willy Wonka comes alive on your plate.In their rendition of the Chocolate Factory Afternoon Tea, Executive Chef Damion Henry and Executive Pastry Chef Walleska Cianfanelli crank the afternoon tea dial to an enchantment level. And the teas—well, walking into the Pavilion and not indulging in the Mad Hatter’s tea party blend or the chocolate peppermint truffle would be a miss. Sure, the classics hold their ground, but they will be there, and the unique concoctions will disappear like magic, and they are certainly worth a try.We opted for the champagne experience, one of our favorite parts, as it was surprisingly fun and thoughtful. There we were, pairing and playing with tiny, flavorful pearls that echoed caviar yet burst with sweetness. Each unique flavor teased out a new note from the champagne.Then come the bites. The desserts leaped out with unexpected names that reminded us of some of the movies’ scenes and characters: “Spotted Giraffe” with its rich layers of caramel ganache and exotic Tonka vanilla bean, the “Silver Cloud” that whisks you away on a cloud of coconut mousse and zesty yuzu cream.Amidst these sweet inventions, the traditional touch of scones remains, bringing a comforting familiarity. And, of course, these treats, along with the scones, are presented creatively and delivered in a tower, layering the experience with an elegant touch.Then there’s the clever reference to that three-course meal gum—except here, there’s no fantastical risk, just delicious tomato soup, roast beef carpaccio, and blueberry pie, followed by an invitation to visit the chocolate fountain, complete with marshmallows, strawberries, and pound cake.Whether you’re a lifelong fan of the films, a lover of afternoon teas, or someone searching for a unique dining
experience, this is your call to action. The Chocolate Factory Afternoon Tea will be available through May 26.
The option with sparkling wine is $130, and the one with champagne is $150. Children pay $60. Reservations are available on Tock. -
Fernanda Guardado – Kie-Gol-Lanee
Fernanda Guardado, del celebrado restaurante oaxaqueño, Kie Gol Lanee en #Chicago, nos contó la fascinante historia de este restaurante que con sus delicias lleva los sabores de la sierra oaxaqueña hasta las orillas del Lago Michigan.
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Casa Humilde Cervecería: El Nuevo Sabor de Una Antigua Tradición
Javier y José López de la cervecería Casa Humilde ¿Cerveza de tunas? ¿Michelada de pepino?¡Sí!La semana pasada en “Sazón Razón y Corazón”, tuvimos como invitados a los hermanos Javier y José López de Casa Humilde Cervecería. Estos jóvenes y creativos empresarios le han dado un toque mexicano a la tradición cervecera de #Chicago.¡Su historia es fascinante!Escucha la entrevista haciendo click en la flecha.Foto: Casa Humilde
