Mexico City Bites We’d Go Back For: A Handful of Mexico City’s Unmissable Eats
To me, Mexico City is more than just a destination—it’s home. Over the years, the city has transformed, and its culinary scene is now celebrated on the global stage. Yet beneath the international accolades and newfound spotlight, the “City of Palaces” remains the same warm, bubbly friend who invites you to a party every single day.
I’m lucky to visit regularly. On our most recent trip, we explored a vibrant mix of old favorites eateries and exciting newcomers. Yes, we’ve already checked off many of the headliners—Pujol, Migrante, Quintonil, Máximo Bistrot. In CDMX, good food isn’t just a luxury—it’s everywhere. With the Michelin Guide’s recent arrival in Mexico City, well-deserved recognition is finally being given to establishments, with winners popping up in places you’d least expect.
This list highlights some of the city’s rising stars alongside a few beloved spots we’ve cherished for decades. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned explorer of Mexico City’s vibrant food scene, these are the places we keep going back to.
Au Pied de Cochon
Nestled within the Presidente InterContinental Hotel in Polanco, Au Pied de Cochon delivers a slice of Parisian charm right in the heart of Mexico City. Open 24/7, this French family-friendly brasserie is beloved by locals for its exceptional breakfasts, indulgent late-night beverages, and spectacular desserts.
While nearby Saks offers a lovely patio and an extensive drink menu, Au Pied de Cochon stands out with its superior late-night offerings.
Café LunaArena
Baklava topped with pistachio ice cream at LunaArena. Mexico City’s coffee scene reflects the city itself—layered, dynamic, and intrinsically diverse. With its Turkish coffee, Café LunaArena slides seamlessly into this mosaic, adding its own color (and spice) to the narrative. Tucked into a vibrant storefront in the famous Condesa neighborhood, the coffee—in all its forms—warm, cold, bold, delicate…
And then there’s the baklava. Order the plate that arrives with pistachio ice cream. If you can, grab a table outside and stay for a while, like the locals do.
There’s a second location in Roma Norte, but I’d recommend starting with Condesa. While both have charm, the Roma Norte spot stands out in character and execution.
Café Nin
From cocktails to tea, Café Nin offers a creative array of options. Nestled in a charming Porfirian townhouse in Colonia Juárez, Café Nin lives up to the social media buzz that has likely already brought it to your attention. The large windows invite natural light to pour in, bathing the space in a warm, inviting glow. We stumbled in during a thunderstorm and were instantly delighted by the pan dulce. Drink options are thoughtful and extensive, we ordered a mint and pinenut tea. There’s a small patio if you want to enjoy the year-round benign weather.
El Cardenal
Seasonal chiles en nogada at El Cardenal El Cardenal is a portal to Mexico’s rich culinary heritage, right in the heart of Mexico City’s Centro Histórico. Tucked inside a gorgeous French-style building, the flagship location on Calle de la Palma has made the restaurant a favorite of locals. Sitting here, you’re part of something bigger. You’re sharing the table with families, visitors and businessmen who’ve made this their spot for more than five decades.
The menu is a tribute to the traditions that define Mexican cuisine, spotlighting flavors from states like Veracruz, Tlaxcala, and Hidalgo, all crafted with time-honored techniques. Consider starting your day here. The conchas with nata—sweet, airy brioche served with rich, creamy clotted cream—are the kind of thing you dream about. Pair them with their signature hot chocolate and thank me later.
If you go for lunch of dinner, live trios fill the space with music and play songs on request (ask for price per song). The service is warm and effortless, like it’s been perfected over decades (because it has). El Cardenal is more than a restaurant—it’s a place where tradition lives on, and where every visit feels like coming home.
El Califa de León
México City´s El Califa de León El Califa de León isn’t just a taco stand—it’s proof that simplicity done right can be extraordinary. Since 1968, this family-owned taquería in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood has mastered the art of letting quality shine.
Do not let the lines deter you, they move quickly. Be prepared to enjoy your taco street side, as there is only a small bar with three stools.
The menu is straightforward, but you’re here for the gaonera—a thinly sliced beef cut kissed with salt and lime, grilled to perfection, and served on a freshly made corn tortilla. Do not skip on the smokey red salsa.
In 2024, El Califa de León became the world’s first taco stand to earn a Michelin star, a testament to its unwavering dedication to tradition and craft. If you’re wondering whether to go, the answer is yes.
Note: There is a taquería chain named “El Califa”. They are not the same restaurant. El Califa de León is in the San Rafael neighborhood.
El Rincón de La Lechuza
Tacos here are exceptional, with handmade tortillas constantly being pressed and grilled to perfection. The menu includes not only classics—yes, you’re here for al pastor—but also unique offerings like liver and rajas, perfect for adventurous palates.
And let’s not forget the quesos fundidos. These melted cheese delights are seasoned with a diverse selection of toppings, making them irresistible.
Ficelle
For lovers of pastry and pan dulce, Ficelle is a dream. This French-inspired café and bakery brings a slice of Paris to the heart of Mexico City, with artisanal breads, croissants, and delicately beautiful cakes. There’s a little patio outside,Gaudir
Gaudir´s celebrated chef Cesc Durán We discovered Gaudir, tucked away in the Verónica Anzures neighborhood, through the recommendation of wine expert Sandra Buch, and after a trip to Barcelona. Our first visit took place long before Chef Cesc Durán earned his well-deserved spot as one of Food & Wine en Español’s Best New Chefs of 2024. Together with his wife, Gaby, ched Durán has crafted a space where his passion and talent create a dining experience that feels both elevated and deeply personal.
The menu is an homage to Catalán cuisine, with Durán’s meticulous technique shining in every dish. The oxtail cannelloni is unforgettable, but truthfully, everything we’ve tried has been remarkable. The wine pairings are thoughtful and expertly curated, and the team’s warm, attentive hospitality makes you feel as though you’ve been welcomed into their home.
While parking is easy, the restaurant itself is tucked into a residential area, so it can be a bit tricky to spot. But trust me—once you find it, you’ll be glad you did.
Restaurante San Ángel Inn
Mexico City is home to many iconic haciendas-turned-restaurants, but Hacienda de San Ángel holds a special kind of magic. Its intimate courtyard, lush gardens, and serenading trios create an atmosphere that feels both romantic and quintessentially Mexican.
Start your meal with escamoles—buttery, nutty ant eggs that are a delicacy worth trying. Wash them down with one of the hacienda’s exceptional margaritas. You are here for traditional Mexican food and it´s all great. Located just a short walk from Frida Kahlo’s house, this hacienda is a celebration of everything extraordinary about Mexico.
Iwashi
If you’re craving something unexpected, Edo Kobayashi´s Sushi Iwashi is the place to be. This intimate, 14-seat sushi bar blends classic Japanese techniques with the freshest ingredients, creating sushi that melts in your mouth. Even the desserts impress. On our last visit, a peach and ricotta mochi stole the show. In a city brimming with culinary excellence, Iwashi proves that sometimes simplicity, executed flawlessly, is all you need.
Masala y Maíz
Masala y Maíz takes you on a journey through the culinary crossroads of Mexico, India, and East Africa. What began as a research project by chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval has evolved into a vibrant culinary space where migration, trade, and tradition converge.
Each dish tells a story. From suadero samosas to a ceviche adorned with uchuva’s sweet tartness and the crunch of a papadam, every bite feels like poetry. The menu is a celebration of intertwined flavors, blending histories and traditions into something entirely new.
Beyond the food, Masala y Maíz uses its platform to explore social justice, art, and environmental issues. However, while the dishes are exceptional, our experience came with a caveat—the service didn’t quite match the culinary brilliance. Still, the food’s artistry makes it worth a visit, though it’s best to temper your expectations when it comes to hospitality.
Siembra Comedor y Tortillería
Soft shell blue crab taco at Siembra Comedor y Tortillería Siembra Comedor y Tortillería pays homage to Mexico’s agricultural heritage, with a focus on sustainable, seasonal farming. Chefs Israel Montero and Karina Mejía craft a menu that’s deeply rooted in the traditions of the milpa, offering dishes that are both innovative and timeless.
Highlights include milpa soup, with the chewy masa dumplings known and chocolates for delightful texture contrast, and a softshell crab taco that lingers in our minds. The heirloom corn tortillas are a revelation, adding depth and authenticity to every bite. The hospitality is equally remarkable—warm, thoughtful, and genuine. If you’re debating between the taquería and comedor, start here. Note there is a standalone taquería, Siembra, that is part of the same group. We tried both. Service is spectacular throughout, but the food at the comedor is superior.
Taquería Selene
My parents have been Taquería Selene fans since the ’70s, and according to them, I had my first taste of their tacos al pastor while still in the womb. Maybe that’s why this place holds such a gravitational pull over my family.
If tacos are a love language, Taquería Selene speaks it fluently. The tacos al pastor—juicy, perfectly spiced pork with just a whisper of sweetness from the pineapple—are a tribute to the magic of street food done right. Decades later, Selene is still calling us back. Don’t skip the “gringa,” an al pastor taco with cheese.
Service is extraordinarily attentive and efficient. Come prepared to write down your order on a little form, as is the norm at most taquerías. Ordering ‘con todo’ means cilantro, onion, and pineapple if you’re getting al pastor. Limes come standard—use them liberally.
Tajín
Duck chile en nogada by El Tajín´s Ana María Arroyo. In the cultural hub of Coyoacán, El Tajín stands as a beacon of regional Mexican cuisine. Founded in 1993 by the iconic Alicia Gironella and Giorgio De’ Angeli, the restaurant celebrates the diverse flavors of Michoacán, Guerrero, Yucatán, and Veracruz.
Led by Chef Ana María Arroyo, the menu showcases traditional recipes like Michoacán charales (smelt) and seasonal specialties such as chiles en nogada, which we were lucky to savor. El Tajín also hosts unique culinary events that honor Mexico’s rich gastronomic heritage, making it a place where history and innovation coexist beautifully.
Wine Bar by CMB
For wine lovers, Wine Bar by CMB is a destination unto itself. Created by the renowned Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, this sophisticated yet approachable spot offers award-winning wines and spirits from around the globe, available by the glass, bottle, or curated flights.
The food, crafted by Chef Daniel Nates, is equally exceptional. His inventive take on Mexican cuisine elevates each dish, making it a perfect pairing for the bar’s stellar wine selection.
I celebrated my birthday here, and it was unforgettable. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or just beginning your wine journey, Wine Bar by CMB deserves a spot on your list.
El Califa de León Meets Chicago: Can Michelin-Worthy Tacos Travel?
By BRENDA STORCH
When I heard NYC taco chain Tacombi was hosting the celebrated El Califa de León as a pop-up in Chicago, I was intrigued—and judging by the lines snaking down the block, I wasn’t the only one. Could the magic of Mexico City’s Michelin-star-worthy taquería be conjured in this fleeting experience?
I’d just tried El Califa de León’s legendary gaoneras a month or so ago (read about it here), and the memory was still vivid—so vivid, in fact, that when people started asking, “Have you tried it yet?” I couldn’t resist.
I joined the crowd—a mix of taco devotees, local media, and curious food aficionados—and stood in line. In the rain. Twice.
Yes, twice.
The first attempt? A bust. By the time I reached the door on my second try, the coveted gaonera—a round, somewhat flat cut of beef from the front leg near the chest—was off the menu for the remainder of the pop-up. And this wasn’t just any taco. The gaonera is the crown jewel of El Califa de León, its raison d’être, the dish that’s earned it a Michelin star and put its owner, Mario Alonso, on the culinary map. Its name pays homage to the bullfighting pass it’s named after—a nod to the artistry and know-how both disciplines demand.
I settled for the two options left: chuleta and costilla. Don’t get me wrong—the pork chuleta, and the beef costilla, (also rib meat) both marinated and kissed by the griddle, were solid options. But they couldn’t quite fill the shoes of the gaonera, that rare cut capable of transforming a taco into an experience.
Then there was the setting. Tacombi’s effort to channel the soul of a Mexican taquería might come off a little too polished for some, a little too staged. It did for me. The electric trompo (likely created for compliance) in the corner is a metaphor, stripped of the primal crackle and hypnotic blaze of the real thing. And the absence of a taquero—the master whose hands and intuition transform tacos into simultaneously a magic trick and ephemeral art—was palpable. Instead, there was a bustling assembly line by the griddle. Efficient, sure, but the soul, the essence, was missing.
Tacombi´s El Califa de León Pop Up Electric trompo at Tacombi Finally, after much anticipation, the tacos arrived. And they were fine—good, even—but something had been lost in transit. The tortillas weren’t handmade, and the salsas, though pleasant, lacked the complexity and heat that make you stop mid-bite and nod. Even the lime—a taco’s simplest yet most crucial sidekick—required a request and a wait, all while the tacos threatened to go cold. It was a bittersweet reminder: the heart of Mexico City is not so easily replicated; some things simply don’t travel well.
Tacos de Chuleta at the El Califa de León´s Pop-Up in Chicago But here’s the thing—maybe Tacombi’s pop-up wasn’t about perfection. It was about capturing a sliver of the experience, a taste of the kind of tacos that inspire people to book flights and land at El Califa de León’s doorstep. And they got that right. The lines, the buzz, the collective anticipation—they were proof of how far people will go for something extraordinary.
I am genuinely thrilled to see El Califa de León recognized as a Michelin-worthy destination. It’s not just about stars or accolades; it’s a tribute to the craft and hard work of the taquero, the layers of tradition folded into every tortilla, and the proof that a taco can shatter expectations, transcend borders and challenge what we think good food can be.
So, if you want the real thing, go to Mexico. Savor the gaonera on handmade tortillas. Try the salsas made with ingredients touched by the local sun and cooked under an impossible boiling-point altitude. Experience the feeling of standing on a corner with a taco that’s just been passed to you, warm and perfect. Find one of the three spots available at the bar or devour your taco standing up.
Some tacos are just worth the journey.
Craving the magic of Italy’s Marocchino in Chicago
Marocchino and Maritozzo at Cova in Milan. Vienna had me at the first sip of a mélange—an airy, delicate coffee made with lightly roasted beans and a blend of frothed and steamed milk (a nod to its name). This cappuccino-like creation has a quiet magic to it– It’s the kind of drink that invites you to linger in a place that truly understands the art of drinking coffee.
Mélange at Cafe Hawelka in Vienna. Then, Milan threw a new obsession my way: the small yet mighty Marocchino. The name might throw you off—it’s not Moroccan at all. This intense drink was born in Piedmont and slowly spread across Italy. Made with just three essential ingredients—coffee, cocoa powder, and milk—layered in perfect balance and served in a warm shot glass, it delivers a rich experience that stays with you. It’s the kind of discovery that makes you fall for a place in a way no guidebook ever could.
I longingly try to recreate this magic at home and search for it in local coffee shops. I recently discovered that Eataly offers something similar—the Bicerin. Their version features whipped cream, giving it a much sweeter, heavier twist, so I asked for frothed milk instead. It is good, but not exactly how I remember it. You won’t get that see-through warm shot glass here either, which I believe helps keep the layers in place.
I will keep looking.
Día de Muertos: Why the Right Name Matters
Photo: Día de Muertos in Oaxaca, México. Photo provided by: Azucena Suárez As Día de Muertos draws near, the sights of sugar skulls, pan de muerto, cempasúchitl flowers, and towering altars honoring our loved ones, fill homes and restaurants. This tradition has crossed borders, bringing the heart of this Mexican celebration to communities far and wide.
In the past decade, I’ve watched as Día de Muertos has gained real traction in the U.S., becoming stronger each year. Schools, community centers, and even major brands have started hosting their own events. In fact, this year I was delighted to find an entire selection of ofrenda essentials in downtown Chicago.
Yet, some details are slipping through the cracks—like calling it “Día de los Muertos” instead of Día de Muertos. This isn’t just a linguistic slip. When we shift from Día de Muertos to Día de los Muertos, we lose a little of the celebration’s soul. It’s not just a day for honoring “the dead” in some distant, abstract way; it’s about the living honoring our dead side by side. Día de Muertos, in its simplicity, speaks directly to that connection.
Día de Muertos isn’t a spectacle meant to be admired from afar. It’s a day when the dead and the living gather around the same table. Families set out an extra glass of mezcal, get together to prepare plates of their loved ones’ favorite foods, and fill the air with music to host them. It’s also a time to cherish those around us, and to remember that this tradition belongs as much to the living as it does to the spirits we honor.
Interestingly, the influence of U.S. pop culture on Día de Muertos has even circled back to Mexico, shaping the celebration in new ways. In 2015, the James Bond movie “Spectre” inspired a new tradition, and as a result, Mexico City now hosts a parade. And while it’s natural for traditions to evolve, it’s essential to keep them grounded in their roots or at least try to understand them so that we know why they matter.
Perhaps that’s why it’s a little jarring to see big corporations, marketing campaigns, and even well-intentioned small businesses miss the mark with “Día de los Muertos.” Adding a “los” might seem like a harmless translation of “Day of the Dead,” but as it becomes more widespread, this subtle shift keeps the living out of the celebration, gradually stripping away the essence that makes it Día de Muertos in the first place.
If Día de Muertos teaches us anything, it’s that memory, like language, is alive. Getting the name right is about honoring a legacy and preserving a tradition. So let’s call it by its real name—Día de Muertos—and remember that, much like tradition itself, every name carries a story.
Death is a Party: Día de Muertos
“Mexicans are familiar with death; they joke about it, caress it, sleep with it, and celebrate it. It is one of their favorite playthings and their most steadfast love.”
-Octavio Paz
Photos: Lissette Storch – Puebla, Mexico
Death is a verb and a noun.
In Mexico, we’ve personified death, dressing her up and giving her endearing nicknames—le hablamos de tú*.
Death is a she.
Originally, sugar skulls were crafted as a reminder of death’s ever-present nature in the dimension of the living, lurking around every corner. They’re just one of many expressions of our inevitable encounter with “the lady of many names”: La Catrina (“the rich or elegant one”), La Tía de las Muchachas (“the girls’ aunt”), La Fría (“the cold one”), La Novia Blanca (“the white bride”).
Death roams among us.
Death is life.
Like any Mexican holiday, food takes the spotlight on Día de Muertos. Alongside pan de muerto—”bread of the dead”—and cempasúchil flowers, sugar skulls are staples of the celebration. Everything about Día de Muertos has intention and weight: the bread symbolizes the circle of life and communion with the dead, while the flowers pay homage to the fleeting nature of existence.
In rural Mexico, this ritual blends form and meaning in a way that’s tangible and sacred.
Growing up in the city, I mostly watched from the sidelines. It wasn’t until my grandmother passed and my uncle and mother took on the responsibility of honoring this three-thousand-year-old tradition that I got pulled in, finding myself increasingly fascinated by it.
Year after year, my family embarks on a journey to a small village on the outskirts of Puebla,
where we build an ofrenda in honor of my grandmother, great-grandmother, and other beloved relatives. These cherished souls are remembered with offerings of their favorite dishes. My grandmother, who had a passion for cooking, is honored not only with food but also with her favorite kitchen tools, carefully placed around her photograph.
Candles serve a dual role, symbolizing both hope and faith while lighting the way for the departed as they make their descent. Water, too, is placed to quench their thirst and symbolize purity. Through these ofrendas, we keep their memory close and call upon their spirits.
The celebration continues at the cemetery, where the living and the departed meet to share a meal, listen to music, and enjoy fireworks.
For a few days in November, in Mexico, death is a party.
The cemetery of the little village of San Francisco Acatepec, where my grandmother is buried. * ‘‘Hablar de tú’ means to address someone informally, in contrast to the more respectful ‘usted,’ which is used for strangers or those who haven’t given permission for familiarity.
UMMO: The Gift Chicago Didn’t Know it Needed
Award Winning Il Vincitore at UMMO Why UMMO is Chicago’s Italian Restaurant You Can’t Miss
You know that feeling when you come back from a place like Mexico City or Italy, and no matter where you eat, everything seems to fall just a bit short?
It’s that elusive mix of tradition, time, ingredients, and flavors—something you just can’t replicate, no matter how hard you try. To me, this is the poetry of food souvenirs: food is a piece of the land from which it comes.
Speaking of gifts, walking into UMMO after our trip to Bologna felt like unwrapping one. After a few bites I wondered, Are we actually back? That’s the power of chef Vincenzo Vottero—a culinary heavyweight with over 40 years of experience who joined the team in August. A Bologna native, he brings Michelin-star chops and a lifetime of passion to UMMO’s menu. His food isn’t just good– it’s what makes UMMO rise above the sea of Italian restaurants around Chicago.
At first glance, UMMO might seem like just another spot on a bar-lined street. By night, it even doubles as a nightclub, which might make you wonder if they’re serious about the food. But with chef Vottero at the helm, there’s no room for gimmicks, just beautifully crafted Italian cuisine.
We kicked things off with the mortadella, that kind of staple you’d see everywhere in Bologna. Sliced by Chef himself, the mortadella arrives on a fried gnocco, finished with 10-year aged balsamic and Parmigiano Reggiano.
In chef Vottero’s hands, comfort food becomes something worth talking about. You are here for the tortellini with truffle, fittingly called Il Vincitore, or “the winner”—an inventive twist on tortellini in brodo and a reminder that simplicity can be extraordinary.
Next up was the tortelli with lamb belly ragú and a hint of pesto that brings a taste of Liguria into the Bolognese fold. Vottero’s food pulls you in with its nostalgia, but each bite has something new to say.
Take the Ultravioletto Risotto, for example. It sounds modern, but it’s anchored in history, too. At its core is Pecorino di Fossa di Sogliano DOP, a cheese that goes back to the 12th century. This isn’t the kind of ingredient you casually toss into a dish. It’s buried underground to age, picking up flavors from the soil itself. Swap it out for another Pecorino, and you lose that earthy, mineral quality. This dish wasn’t available during our visit, but it’s on our list for next time.
Then came the desserts. First, a tomato mousse with basil sorbet—a pairing that evokes a summer garden, with a subtle sweetness that sneaks up on you. And then, a tiramisú unlike any other: almond cake soaked in coffee and amaretto, layered with mascarpone mousse, and drizzled with chocolate sauce.
Chef Vottero at UMMO is writing Italy’s culinary past in the present, blending tradition with his own creative edge. He understands that food is more than sustenance; it’s culture, memory, history, and place, all piled onto a plate.
And that’s what we want when we eat, isn’t it? To be transported. Chef Vincenzo Vottero does just that. It’s not just Italian food he serves—it’s Italy, brought to us like a gift from a man who knows it by heart.
UMMO:
22 W Hubbard Street, Chicago, IL
Make your reservations HERE.Celebrate Hanal Pixan at La Licor Panamericana: The Mayan Día de Muertos
Screenshot If you’re looking for a reason to gather with friends, taste something extraordinary, and honor Mexico’s rich cultural traditions, this is it—La Licor Panamericana is hosting an event that blends tradition, music, and food into a celebration of Hanal Pixan, the Mayan celebration of Día de Muertos.Drawing inspiration from the Pan-American Highway, which stretches from Mexico to Argentina, La Licor brings together the flavors of the Americas. But it doesn’t stop there—chef Juan Jiménez (Roister, S.K.Y., and The Chicago Club) is also passionate about introducing lesser-known traditions and cuisines, giving diners a chance to explore dishes and culinary highlights that don’t always get the spotlight. For this event, chef Jiménez will focus on the rich celebrations of southeastern Mexico. His goal is to honor traditional recipes while introducing new flavors and techniques that keep things exciting.Like Día de Muertos, Hanal Pixan, or “food for the souls,” is about honoring those who have come before us. But it’s also a vibrant celebration of life.At the heart of this event is none other than chef Pilar Alonso, a name synonymous with Quintana Roo’s rich culinary heritage. Pilar has spent her life mastering the regional flavors that define the cuisine of southeastern Mexico, and on this night, she’s bringing her expertise to Chicago. Her cooking isn’t just about food—it’s about storytelling. Every dish Pilar creates is a tribute to her heritage, full of depth and soul. This is your chance to experience her magic!The 4-course dinner, each paired with a craft cocktail, will take place on October 30th at 8 PM. The night will be filled with live music from Grammy-nominated Flor de Piel and a special menu featuring Zacapa, Don Julio, and Mezcal Unión. Tickets are available through Resy, but with limited spots, be sure to reserve yours here before they’re gone: https://shorturl.at/Q988OFrom the Streets to Stardom: Mexico City’s Michelin-Star Tacos
Taquerías are the pulse of Mexico City, the heartbeat of its streets. And they’re more than just places to grab a quick bite—they’re small universes that capture the city’s soul. They have their own language and set of rules. As tacos have been embraced worldwide, in Mexico, people continue to fall in love with this cornerstone of their diet—a staple that carries centuries of tradition in every bite. Recently, one of these unassuming spots has crossed into a realm few would have ever predicted: Michelin stardom.
I recently walked into El Califa de León with a mix of curiosity and a healthy dose of skepticism. The taquería sits nestled in a quintessential Mexico City market, buzzing with vendors. We parked right in front, wedging ourselves beside a stand selling shirts emblazoned with the taquería’s logo, proudly displayed alongside the Michelin man—a snapshot of local ingenuity and pragmatic prowess. In this perfect blend of street hustle and global recognition, a tiny taco joint is making waves—and rightfully so.
The first thing that hits you is the unmistakable aroma of sizzling meats and fresh tortillas. You know you’ve arrived at the right spot because, even in the morning, there’s a line. The grill works overtime, and tortillas are made right next to it. The whole place hums with the efficiency and energy of a kitchen that’s mastered its craft, yet it retains the casual vibe of your favorite neighborhood spot. Some people know the people behind the counter by name and proudly make recommendations to visitors snapping photos and videos.
There’s a few options including steak and pork. Ask for the gaonera taco, the place’s crown jewel. Named after a bullfighting pass, and in honor of the taquerías godfather, a bullfighter, this tenderloin-like cut is seasoned with lime and salt and then grilled. One bite, and it’s clear why Michelin came calling. The meat is tender, juicy, smoky—a reminder that sometimes, the best food doesn’t need to shout. It just needs to be done right.
And let’s not forget the salsas. In Mexico City, a good taquería lives or dies by them, and El Califa delivers. There’s heat, there’s depth, and there’s that sense of balance that only comes when a kitchen truly understands its ingredients. I love a good green tomatillo sauce, but the red salsa is popular here—and it’s fantastic.
The tacos disappear as quickly as they’re served, which is a good thing since this tiny stall can barely seat three. You’re in, you devour, you leave. No need to linger.
El Califa de León is proof that street food doesn’t need to compromise to earn its place in the culinary canon. It’s still the kind of place where you sit elbow to elbow with strangers, the hum of the city as your soundtrack. It’s honest, unpretentious, and, above all, downright fantastic.
Michelin stars or not, I’d come back to this place in a heartbeat. Because at the end of the day, the real star here is the food.Rediscovering Jaleo: Chef John Borras Brings Spanish Tradition to Life
Chef John Borras, Jaleo´s new executive chef I’ve been to Jaleo a few times before. I know the drill: the colorful atmosphere, the endless parade of small plates, each offering a small window into Spain’s soul. The restaurant, bearing José Andrés’ name, carries a pedigree.
This time, something felt different. The reason? Chef John Borras, who was recently drafted as Jaleo’s executive chef.
If you’ve followed Borras’s culinary journey, as I have for over a decade, you know the kind of power this chef and restaurateur (1492 Tapas and Bar, Macarena) brings to a kitchen. His understanding and reverence for Spanish tradition is undeniable, but what sets him apart is his fearless reinterpretation of it. From the moment I sat down, it was clear he had injected new life into the offerings.
Take the pan con tomate, for instance. It’s a dish that’s as simple as it gets—ripe, fresh tomatoes on bread, with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. But here, it’s different. The bread comes out with a golden crust that’s just the right amount of crunchy and the perfect vehicle for the jamón de bellota, that legendary Ibérico ham from the famed pata negra pigs. These aren’t just any pigs. They’re acorn-fed, free-roaming, the Rolls Royce of pork, if you will. And you can taste the difference. Try the paletilla, which is a cut from the shoulder. The ham is tender and rich, with that perfect marbling that practically melts on your tongue. There’s a deep, nutty flavor from the acorn-based diet that makes this meat unlike anything else. And while you might find Ibérico ham elsewhere in Chicago, I have yet to encounter paletilla like this.
Then, there are the popular and ubiquitous croquetas. When done right, they’re addictive—crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside. At Jaleo, ham croquetas arrive golden and crisp, their centers creamy and almost molten. But it’s the pairing that takes them to the next level. Served with a side of paletilla ham, the combination is nothing short of divine. The contrast of the creamy croqueta interior, the crisp exterior, and the luscious, fatty ham is a perfect marriage of textures and flavors.
When you visit, don’t stop at the classics (though the ham croquetas are a must). Save room for the new dishes Borras has added to the menu—like the ribeye paella or the cachopo, Spain’s answer to Wiener Schnitzel.
Having chef Borras´food so close is such a treat! Let him take you on a culinary tour through Spain with his distinct, masterful touch, a nod to Spain’s love for communal, shareable food.
Experiencia Gastronómica en El Tajín #CDMX
El próximo 12 de septiembre, a las 7:30 de la noche, se celebrará una cena maridaje de tres tiempos en el celebado restaurante El Tajín, referente de la cocina mexicana ubicado en Coyoacán, en la Ciudad de México. Este encuentro culinario, diseñado para celebrar la temporada 2024 del chile en nogada, contará con la colaboración de tres renombrados chefs: Josefina López, (Pirul Cocina de Autor), Juan Aquino, (Xuva) y Gerardo Quezadas (Angelopolitano). Además, los asistentes tendrán la exclusiva oportunidad de adquirir el libro “Chile en Nogada, 200 años de la leyenda”, de la autoría de éste último, mismo que será autografiado por estos gastrónomos quienes han enriquecido esta obra con sus propias interpretaciones de la icónica receta.
La velada comenzará con una creación de la chef Josefina López: un carpaccio de betabel con berros y quelites, aderezado con una vinagreta de manzana, granada y nuez de castilla caramelizada. Posteriormente, la chef Ana Arroyo nos deleitará con su versión tradicional del chile en nogada, inspirada por la receta de Alicia Gironella De’Angeli. Para la elaboración de este plato, la chef utiliza los productos autóctonos de Puebla, de San Andrés Calpan, como son la manzana panochera, la pera de San Juan y el durazno criollo, así como los dos tipos de carne: res y cerdo, y en lugar de utilizar el acitrón -que debido a que la biznaga Burra o tonel grande, de donde se extrae, tarda hasta 40 años en madurar, ha sido protegida por la Procuraduría Federal de Protección al Ambiente- le agrega xoconoxtle deshidratado.
Además, la chef Arroyo presentará una innovadora propuesta: un chile ancho relleno de pato.
Este menú será acompañado por. un maridaje especialmente para complementar los sabores y texturas de estos emblemáticos platillos mexicanos. La cena marca el comienzo de una experiencia que estará disponible hasta el 30 de septiembre.
Adicionalmente, el libro de Gerardo Quezadas, que recopila testimonios y recetas de 20 chefs reconocidos, estará disponible para que los asistentes puedan profundizar en la historia del chile en nogada.
El costo de la cena es de $1,500 MXN por persona e incluye tanto el menú maridado como una copia del libro autografiado. Para reservar tu lugar en este exclusivo evento y sumergirte en la historia y tradición de uno de los platos más emblemáticos de la cocina mexicana, te invitamos a llamar al restaurante El Tajín al 55 7006 8713. No dejes pasar la oportunidad de disfrutar de esta experiencia culinaria única.
Vínculo: Azucena Suárez
For lovers of pastry and pan dulce, Ficelle is a dream. This French-inspired café and bakery brings a slice of Paris to the heart of Mexico City, with artisanal breads, croissants, and delicately beautiful cakes. There’s a little patio outside,
The first thing that hits you is the unmistakable aroma of sizzling meats and fresh tortillas. You know you’ve arrived at the right spot because, even in the morning, there’s a line. The grill works overtime, and tortillas are made right next to it. The whole place hums with the efficiency and energy of a kitchen that’s mastered its craft, yet it retains the casual vibe of your favorite neighborhood spot. Some people know the people behind the counter by name and proudly make recommendations to visitors snapping photos and videos.
