From the Streets to Stardom: Mexico City’s Michelin-Star Tacos
Taquerías are the pulse of Mexico City, the heartbeat of its streets. And they’re more than just places to grab a quick bite—they’re small universes that capture the city’s soul. They have their own language and set of rules. As tacos have been embraced worldwide, in Mexico, people continue to fall in love with this cornerstone of their diet—a staple that carries centuries of tradition in every bite. Recently, one of these unassuming spots has crossed into a realm few would have ever predicted: Michelin stardom.
I recently walked into El Califa de León with a mix of curiosity and a healthy dose of skepticism. The taquería sits nestled in a quintessential Mexico City market, buzzing with vendors. We parked right in front, wedging ourselves beside a stand selling shirts emblazoned with the taquería’s logo, proudly displayed alongside the Michelin man—a snapshot of local ingenuity and pragmatic prowess. In this perfect blend of street hustle and global recognition, a tiny taco joint is making waves—and rightfully so.
The first thing that hits you is the unmistakable aroma of sizzling meats and fresh tortillas. You know you’ve arrived at the right spot because, even in the morning, there’s a line. The grill works overtime, and tortillas are made right next to it. The whole place hums with the efficiency and energy of a kitchen that’s mastered its craft, yet it retains the casual vibe of your favorite neighborhood spot. Some people know the people behind the counter by name and proudly make recommendations to visitors snapping photos and videos.
There’s a few options including steak and pork. Ask for the gaonera taco, the place’s crown jewel. Named after a bullfighting pass, and in honor of the taquerías godfather, a bullfighter, this tenderloin-like cut is seasoned with lime and salt and then grilled. One bite, and it’s clear why Michelin came calling. The meat is tender, juicy, smoky—a reminder that sometimes, the best food doesn’t need to shout. It just needs to be done right.
And let’s not forget the salsas. In Mexico City, a good taquería lives or dies by them, and El Califa delivers. There’s heat, there’s depth, and there’s that sense of balance that only comes when a kitchen truly understands its ingredients. I love a good green tomatillo sauce, but the red salsa is popular here—and it’s fantastic.
The tacos disappear as quickly as they’re served, which is a good thing since this tiny stall can barely seat three. You’re in, you devour, you leave. No need to linger.
El Califa de León is proof that street food doesn’t need to compromise to earn its place in the culinary canon. It’s still the kind of place where you sit elbow to elbow with strangers, the hum of the city as your soundtrack. It’s honest, unpretentious, and, above all, downright fantastic.
Michelin stars or not, I’d come back to this place in a heartbeat. Because at the end of the day, the real star here is the food.Rediscovering Jaleo: Chef John Borras Brings Spanish Tradition to Life
Chef John Borras, Jaleo´s new executive chef I’ve been to Jaleo a few times before. I know the drill: the colorful atmosphere, the endless parade of small plates, each offering a small window into Spain’s soul. The restaurant, bearing José Andrés’ name, carries a pedigree.
This time, something felt different. The reason? Chef John Borras, who was recently drafted as Jaleo’s executive chef.
If you’ve followed Borras’s culinary journey, as I have for over a decade, you know the kind of power this chef and restaurateur (1492 Tapas and Bar, Macarena) brings to a kitchen. His understanding and reverence for Spanish tradition is undeniable, but what sets him apart is his fearless reinterpretation of it. From the moment I sat down, it was clear he had injected new life into the offerings.
Take the pan con tomate, for instance. It’s a dish that’s as simple as it gets—ripe, fresh tomatoes on bread, with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. But here, it’s different. The bread comes out with a golden crust that’s just the right amount of crunchy and the perfect vehicle for the jamón de bellota, that legendary Ibérico ham from the famed pata negra pigs. These aren’t just any pigs. They’re acorn-fed, free-roaming, the Rolls Royce of pork, if you will. And you can taste the difference. Try the paletilla, which is a cut from the shoulder. The ham is tender and rich, with that perfect marbling that practically melts on your tongue. There’s a deep, nutty flavor from the acorn-based diet that makes this meat unlike anything else. And while you might find Ibérico ham elsewhere in Chicago, I have yet to encounter paletilla like this.
Then, there are the popular and ubiquitous croquetas. When done right, they’re addictive—crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside. At Jaleo, ham croquetas arrive golden and crisp, their centers creamy and almost molten. But it’s the pairing that takes them to the next level. Served with a side of paletilla ham, the combination is nothing short of divine. The contrast of the creamy croqueta interior, the crisp exterior, and the luscious, fatty ham is a perfect marriage of textures and flavors.
When you visit, don’t stop at the classics (though the ham croquetas are a must). Save room for the new dishes Borras has added to the menu—like the ribeye paella or the cachopo, Spain’s answer to Wiener Schnitzel.
Having chef Borras´food so close is such a treat! Let him take you on a culinary tour through Spain with his distinct, masterful touch, a nod to Spain’s love for communal, shareable food.
Experiencia Gastronómica en El Tajín #CDMX
El próximo 12 de septiembre, a las 7:30 de la noche, se celebrará una cena maridaje de tres tiempos en el celebado restaurante El Tajín, referente de la cocina mexicana ubicado en Coyoacán, en la Ciudad de México. Este encuentro culinario, diseñado para celebrar la temporada 2024 del chile en nogada, contará con la colaboración de tres renombrados chefs: Josefina López, (Pirul Cocina de Autor), Juan Aquino, (Xuva) y Gerardo Quezadas (Angelopolitano). Además, los asistentes tendrán la exclusiva oportunidad de adquirir el libro “Chile en Nogada, 200 años de la leyenda”, de la autoría de éste último, mismo que será autografiado por estos gastrónomos quienes han enriquecido esta obra con sus propias interpretaciones de la icónica receta.
La velada comenzará con una creación de la chef Josefina López: un carpaccio de betabel con berros y quelites, aderezado con una vinagreta de manzana, granada y nuez de castilla caramelizada. Posteriormente, la chef Ana Arroyo nos deleitará con su versión tradicional del chile en nogada, inspirada por la receta de Alicia Gironella De’Angeli. Para la elaboración de este plato, la chef utiliza los productos autóctonos de Puebla, de San Andrés Calpan, como son la manzana panochera, la pera de San Juan y el durazno criollo, así como los dos tipos de carne: res y cerdo, y en lugar de utilizar el acitrón -que debido a que la biznaga Burra o tonel grande, de donde se extrae, tarda hasta 40 años en madurar, ha sido protegida por la Procuraduría Federal de Protección al Ambiente- le agrega xoconoxtle deshidratado.
Además, la chef Arroyo presentará una innovadora propuesta: un chile ancho relleno de pato.
Este menú será acompañado por. un maridaje especialmente para complementar los sabores y texturas de estos emblemáticos platillos mexicanos. La cena marca el comienzo de una experiencia que estará disponible hasta el 30 de septiembre.
Adicionalmente, el libro de Gerardo Quezadas, que recopila testimonios y recetas de 20 chefs reconocidos, estará disponible para que los asistentes puedan profundizar en la historia del chile en nogada.
El costo de la cena es de $1,500 MXN por persona e incluye tanto el menú maridado como una copia del libro autografiado. Para reservar tu lugar en este exclusivo evento y sumergirte en la historia y tradición de uno de los platos más emblemáticos de la cocina mexicana, te invitamos a llamar al restaurante El Tajín al 55 7006 8713. No dejes pasar la oportunidad de disfrutar de esta experiencia culinaria única.
Vínculo: Azucena Suárez
Chiles en Nogada: The Dish of a Revolution
Foto: Bertha Herrera para La Vitamina T If you’re fortunate enough to find yourself in Mexico late in the fall, you’ll likely see chiles en nogada gracing many menus. Literally “peppers in walnut sauce,” this seasonal delicacy, originating from the state of Puebla, first made its appearance in the 19th century to celebrate Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Part prayer, part recipe, the lore goes that Augustinian nuns from Atlixco, Puebla, improvised this dish in honor of the Mexican caudillo (and later Mexico’s first emperor) Agustín de Iturbide. He stopped in Puebla on his way to Mexico City after signing the treaty in Veracruz that secured Mexico’s independence. Appropriately, the dish mirrors the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag on the plate.
Part warrior, part angel, chiles en nogada involves stuffing poblano peppers with a mix of meat and fruits, creating a medley of textures with every bite. The dish is topped off with a light, delicious walnut sauce, enhanced with pomegranate seeds, available in central Mexico until mid-September.
Part indigenous, part Spanish, this dish embodies Mexico—it’s like a culinary snapshot, showcasing the nation’s rich contrasts and historical complexities.
Don’t miss the chance to try it.
We recommend:
In Mexico City:
In Chicago:
I wrote an article for Eater Chicago that is periodically updated.
*Military leader
Originally published on 8/11/2013. Updated 9/8/2024.
ROOP: ROOH’s Ode to Nostalgia
You’ve probably heard the name ROOH whispered by those in the know—the restaurant has been making waves in the city’s culinary scene for a few years now. ROOH has earned its stripes, gaining a “Plate” distinction in the 2020 Michelin Guide and a spot on many discerning foodie lists. Now, the team is taking things up a notch with their latest venture, ROOP—a tasting menu that delivers a journey through memories and places.
Meaning “beauty” in Hindi, ROOP invites patrons to dive into a thoughtful eight-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Rina Mallick, one of the brilliant minds behind ROOH, shared that many of these dishes are deeply connected to nostalgia. The menu draws inspiration from the vibrant streets of India, tapping into the flavors and cultural touchstones that have shaped countless experiences. With the collaboration of Michelin-starred Chef Mike Cornelissen (RijnZicht), ROOP offers an intriguing new take on Indian cuisine.
The menu kicks off with dishes rooted in Indian street food—a flight of pani puri followed by vada, a humble fritter that, according to Mallick, is particularly popular with students, holding a place similar to the one ramen occupies in the hearts of many Western students due to its affordability. For the third course, non-vegetarians will delight in a quick trip to Goa with a sea scallop that is light and flavorful. Caviar can be added as a supplement. We chose to let the flavors of the scallop shine on their own but are excited to try it with caviar next time.
If I had to pick one standout, it’s got to be the lamb served with papaya sorbet. I know, it sounds like something that shouldn’t work—but in the hands of Chef Mike Cornelissen, it’s pure magic. The richness of the lamb, perfectly balanced by the cool, unexpected sweetness of the sorbet, creates a combination that’s as surprising as it is delicious.
And then there’s the chicken royal. The chicken itself is sublime, but if you’re in the mood to treat yourself (and let’s be honest, you’re here, so you should), you can top it with truffle. There’s also a mushroom-based counterpart for those leaning towards a vegetarian meal, and yes, it too can be adorned with truffle.
Many of these dishes are deeply connected to memories, both personal and cultural. As you taste them, you’re transported—not just to the bustling markets of India, but to places in your own memory where flavor and nostalgia intertwine. For me, it’s impossible not to draw parallels to my own experiences with Mexican cuisine—the same addictive dance of sweet, spicy, and acidic that just works. The food in my memories translates every flavor into Spanish: take their guava mocktail, for instance. One sip, and I was instantly reminded of a margarita.
In my opinion, there is no amount of travel or research that can create that gravitational force that the dishes of a mother tongue have over one’s soul. There’s an imprint that the food of our mothers and grandmothers leave, that cannot be artificially recreated, which is why felt lucky to have Mallick as our guide, as she generously explained touches like the mandala—a celebratory and symbolic design used to plate the lamb dish—that could have easily gone unnoticed without her insight. There’s also a bit of fun theatrics– as this culinary journey comes to a close, ROOH ensures the finale is just as memorable as the beginning. The Cracked Egg, where a dessert resembling an egg is cracked on your plate, and the Last Train Station, a nostalgic nod to the chai wallahs of India serving chai in bustling train stations, yet distinctly American in its campfire-style presentation, close out a meal that has taken you from the streets of India to the heart of the U.S.
This connection to memory and place is what makes the ROOP experience so special. It’s not just about what’s on the plate—it’s about where those flavors take you. And the best part? The whole experience is incredibly accessible at just $95 for the tasting menu, with wine pairings for $55.
Alongside this new tasting initiative, ROOH will also introduce a refreshed a la carte menu by Executive Chef Rohit Thaledi, featuring new dishes such as Saag Paneer Kofta, Goan Crab Cakes with Xec Xec Sauce, and Gulab Jamun Cheesecake.
ROOP is available Sunday to Wednesday. Make your reservation on OpenTable.
Istmo Chicago – A Culinary Bridge to Oaxaca’s Heart
There’s a lot of buzz around Istmo, the new Oaxacan restaurant in Lakeview, and underneath it all, there’s real substance. Istmo bridges traditional Mexican cuisine with a refined and elevated approach, staying true to its roots while embracing a fresh vision.
The southeastern Mexican state of Oaxaca is known for its vibrant culinary traditions, incredible cuisine, and the heartwarming hospitality of its people. The name “Istmo” refers to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, one of Oaxaca’s seven regions. The food is diverse, unique, and equally delicious.
Right now, Istmo is serving lunch and brunch, and it plans to roll out dinner service soon. And believe me, you’ll want to be first in line when they do.
I couldn’t resist the enchiladas, as I’m a sucker for salsa verde, but the enfrijoladas, a dish from the region similar to enchiladas but drenched in a rich bean sauce, also looked tantalizing.
The enchiladas are enveloped in a thick, well-balanced sauce that’s rich and flavorful. While enchiladas are available all over Mexico, chef Carlos López Muñoz (Mexique, Leña Brava) brings this incredible salsa to life with his mother´s recipe, making it a truly special experience. The sauce alone is worth the visit—trust me on this one. Typically, I go for chicken enchiladas, but at Istmo, you can choose from cheese, chorizo, and steak.
We also sampled the huevos divorciados (divorced eggs) served with green and red salsa and enjoyed their hibiscus spritzer, a take on agua de jamaica. Playing on the fragrant cinnamon notes of café de olla and nodding to the Southeast Asian-Mexican fusion trend, Istmo also offers a Mexican chocolate chai.
One dish that truly stands out in my memory is their take on the traditional corn-based jello nicuatole, which I previously could only find at Kie-Go-La Nee, which focuses on food from the Sierra region. At Itsmo, the dish takes on a texture more like crème brûlée, offering a delightful twist on a classic. The plate is decorated with a buñuelo de viento, adding crunch to the creamy dessert. To many, this might only be a crispy and airy delight, but to me, it was a flashback to cherished moments and places.
Service was a bit slow when we published this article, but I assume it will get better as the kinks are worked out. Expect to wait for your food a bit. It will be worth it!
If you’re looking to add some excitement to your lunch or brunch routine, Istmo is the place to be. And keep an eye out for their dinner service—I’m betting it will be nothing short of spectacular.
Discover Nemi: Where Tradition Meets Modern Snacking
When Regina Trillo arrived in Chicago, she was struck by how Mexican-inspired products and packaging often presented a cartoonish version of Mexican culture and flavors. The imagery lacked depth and accuracy, and she wanted to convey to the world that Mexico is much more than a cliché. Out of this desire, in 2019, Nemi was born. This delicious snack is a testament to Trillo’s commitment to bringing Mexican flavors to the forefront while challenging stereotypes.
At the heart of Nemi is nopal, the prickly pear cactus, a nutritious ingredient often found in Mexican cuisine. Mexicans often identify with this resilient cacti, as it thrives at home and far beyond, even in the most difficult conditions.
I love anything with lime and salt, and I have a thing for a popular Mexican corn snack that packs a punch with its bold flavors. Sadly, my adored snacks are also a calorie bomb loaded with artificial ingredients, unhealthy fats, and enough sodium to make any doctor raise an eyebrow. Finding it in the US is no easy feat, and I am often indulged by visitors who come bearing it as a gift. Imagine my excitement when I stumbled upon Nemi right here in my backyard! Six grams of protein? Whaaaaat?!
Trillo’s brilliance lies in transforming this ubiquitous ingredient into a modern snack that bridges Mexican traditions with current trends—it is health-conscious, kind to the environment, and downright addictive.
Adding to her long list of awards, Nemi’s creator has recently been selected as one of the eight winners in the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition. This initiative is designed to support emerging brands and give them a platform to grow. Nemi’s inclusion is a testament to Trillo’s hard work, creativity, and dedication to bringing Mexican flavors to the mainstream.
“I’m honored to be one of the eight businesses selected to join the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition,” said Trillo. “The Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition is a five-month, mentor-guided program to support emerging food and beverage businesses inspired by Hispanic flavors and culture.”
Reflecting on her journey as an entrepreneur, Trillo shared: “My message is that at the beginning there is fear and uncertainty… and the perfect time to start is usually today!”
Nemi comes in different flavors: Smoky Chipotle, Pickled Jalapeño, Chile Turmeric, Mexican Lime, and Churro. Find Nemi at your favorite local markets, health food stores, and specialty shops across the city, or order online via their website.
#PescaConFuturo Invita a Celebrar el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible con el Consumo de Pescados y Mariscos Mexicanos
Cada 18 de junio se celebra el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible, una oportunidad para reconocer la labor de los productores del campo, mar y aguas interiores mexicanas e incluir en nuestro menú recetas preparadas con alimentos que dan sabor a nuestras cocinas y mesas. En esta fecha, COMEPESCA a través del movimiento #PescaConFuturo, hace un llamado para un consumo responsable de los pescados y mariscos sostenibles mexicanos.
En 2016, la Asamblea General de las Naciones Unidas declaró el 18 de junio como el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible para reconocer la diversidad natural y cultural del mundo y reafirmar que todas las civilizaciones pueden contribuir en el desarrollo sostenible de sus comunidades.
El movimiento #PescaConFuturo invita a conocer el trabajo de los productores, el origen de nuestros alimentos y la variedad de pescados y mariscos que genera la pesca y acuacultura sostenible mexicana, así como hacer un uso eficiente de los recursos y la conservación del medio ambiente.
En este sentido, Ana María Arroyo, chef del restaurante El Tajín y embajadora gastronómica de #PescaConFuturo ratifica la importancia de trabajar en conjunto con los productores y conocer su historia y el origen de los vegetales, verduras, hierbas, pescados y mariscos que llegan a nuestra cocina. “La gastronomía sostenible tiene en cuenta el origen de los ingredientes, cómo se cultivan, cómo se cosechan, cómo llegan a nuestros mercados y cocinas y cómo los transformamos en un platillo que se convierte en el centro de nuestra mesa”.
La Gastronomía Sostenible promueve hábitos, consumo y técnicas de cocina responsables y respetuosas con el medio ambiente, respetar las temporadas de cada alimento; la pesca y la acuacultura ofrece diversas variedades, entre ellas, huachinango, trucha, tilapia, pulpo, camarón, jurel, atún y jaiba.
Para celebrar el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible, la chef Ana María Arroyo propone preparar “Huachinango la veracruzana”, un platillo tradicional de Veracruz que integra productos del campo y mar mexicanos; se necesitan filetes de huauchinango, jitomate, cebolla, ajo, papas, aceitunas, alcaparras y chiles güeros; primero se condimentan los filetes con sal; los jitomates, papas y cebolla se cortan en cubos, por separado se fríen con un poco de aceite de oliva para luego integrar uno a uno los ingredientes y al final los filetes, dejar hervir por diez minutos e integrar las aceitunas, las alcaparras y los chiles güeros. Servir con arroz blanco y plátano macho frito.
#PescaConFuturo impulsa el consumo responsable de pescados y mariscos sustentables e informa sobre la variedad de especies certificadas, proyectos de mejora pesquera, recomendaciones de compra, así como los periodos de veda.
Vínculo: Azucena SuárezAn Epic Tale of Culinary Fusion: Mirra at the Coach House
Mirra1742 W. Division Street
Chicago, IL 60622Just beyond the bustling vibe of Lilac Tiger in Uptown, lies a cozy nook known as the Coach House—a place that feels like stumbling into a secret. Here, James Beard Award nominee chef Zubair Mohajir blurs the lines between #Indian and #Mexican cuisines, spinning a tale as rich and intricate as the story of Mirra, or Caterina de San Juan, the muse behind the Pueblan traditions of the China Poblana. This fascinating tale threads everything together, making each dish a journey that’s as much about the plates as it is about the stories that inspired them.Once we found the entrance, we were promptly escorted to the counter. It is here, among treasures that narrate tales of culinary conquests and personal journeys, that each meal is crafted, transforming the dining experience into something resembling a private conversation. The eatery’s counter isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a place where every dish comes with a backstory.The 5-course journey began with a lentil puff that resembles chicharrón. Rich, crunchy, and a bit cheeky, this is an excellent accompaniment to an incredible scallop ceviche. Next up, we’ve got a sope served with cilantro and spinach chutney, all while sporting a tiger prawn like a crown. Then there’s the roti quesadilla, where the plot thickens. It’s like a handshake between distant lands, proving that when it comes to food, borders are merely lines on a map.
And just when you think it can’t get any better, the lamb barbacoa biryani comes in, a respectful nod to a regional style of barbacoa the Chef encountered during one of his trips to Mexico.Wrapping up the feast, there’s dessert and chai—the kind that tastes like it’s been brewed with a dash of love, straight from chef Mohajir’s grandmother’s kitchen.At $135, plus $60 more if you’re diving into the pairings, this is more than a meal; it’s an invitation to join chef Mohajir on a trip that’s as much about the stories behind the dishes as it is about the flavors. And let me tell you, it’s an invitation worth accepting.The menus change periodically, so there is always fun to discover.Reservations available through Tock.
Scallop ceviche with lentil puff. 
Roti quesadilla Lamb biryani 
Dessert! Chai tea with cake. Taco Omakase: Where Street Food Meets Chef’s Table
Taco de Suadero at Cariño Chicago. Photo: Brenda Storch Omakase, that Japanese tradition which essentially means ‘I’m in your hands,’ feels like getting the VIP nod in a place where everybody knows your name—but here, it’s the chef who locks eyes with you and without a word, promises, ‘I’ve got this.’
Your job? Simply sit back, relax, and let the chef’s choice sweep you off your feet. Now, picture the omakase approach with a twist: taco omakase is a brilliant mash-up where the chef’s table meets the street food scene, each taco a surprise waiting to unravel.
I recently had the chance to dive into this at Cariño in Chicago (check out my article on Eater Chicago), where you can snag one of just seven coveted spots at the counter. Suddenly, you’re in the front row for Chef Norman Fenton’s culinary concert. The setlist? A lineup that swings between 8 and 12 courses, each act more thrilling than the last, all set to the rhythm of Mexico’s underground beats.
Masa shines as the headliner, transforming into an array of show-stopping numbers that each carry a whisper of tradition with a dash of bold. From a Wagyu beef taco with a salsa that will leave you downright speechless to a menu as unpredictable as it is thrilling, the whole experience is a roller coaster ride of comfort, excitement, and outright joy. Chef Fenton’s love affair with Mexican cuisine and overall culture is palpable, making every visit to Cariño (a term for affection in Spanish) not just a meal but an unforgettable journey of discovery and a celebration of cariño at every turn.
The offering is a great deal at $125 per person, which includes 2 cocktails and tip.
The first thing that hits you is the unmistakable aroma of sizzling meats and fresh tortillas. You know you’ve arrived at the right spot because, even in the morning, there’s a line. The grill works overtime, and tortillas are made right next to it. The whole place hums with the efficiency and energy of a kitchen that’s mastered its craft, yet it retains the casual vibe of your favorite neighborhood spot. Some people know the people behind the counter by name and proudly make recommendations to visitors snapping photos and videos.
