Chef Cristian Orozco and the Revival of Suburban Dining
At Five O Four in Glen Ellyn, Chef Cristian Orozco Is Turning a Suburban Kitchen Into a Quiet Force
When talking about the dining scene in Chicago, it’s easy to overlook the suburbs. But that’s exactly where some of the most thoughtful, quietly ambitious kitchens are taking shape today. Chef Cristian Orozco is living proof that excellence doesn’t always demand a downtown address. Sometimes, it’s tucked behind a construction zone. Sometimes, it’s quietly cooking just west of the skyline.
Orozco was born just 10 minutes from the Guatemalan border with Chiapas, in a place where flavors, histories and borders blur. That in-between space — culturally, geographically — is still where he cooks from.
When he first arrived in the United States, kitchens weren’t about dreams — they were about survival. He washed dishes, bussed tables, prepped vegetables.
A job at a country club in Wisconsin gave him his first structured restaurant experience. By the time he became a sous chef, something had shifted. Cooking wasn’t just a job. It was a calling.
That calling led him to Chicago — and to Acadia, a now-shuttered fine-dining heavyweight. For Orozco, it was a crash course in precision, pressure and ingredients. He was given a shot because, when asked when he could start, he pulled out his kitchen tools on the spot. This is also where he first heard the phrase “Michelin star.” He didn’t know exactly what it meant — but he knew it was where he wanted to go.
From Acadia, he moved to Tzuco, under Carlos Gaytán, where he reconnected with his Latin American roots and sharpened his technique. Then came North Pond, where storytelling and sourcing local weren’t mere trends — they were gospel.
After a well-received pop-up at Frida Room, fate brought him to Glen Ellyn’s Five O Four. He arrived as a consultant. He stayed. As an owner.
It wasn’t perfect. The menu had more than 100 items. Months of roadwork had left the entrance nearly inaccessible. Most people would’ve bailed. Orozco doubled down.
His solution? Cut the noise. He whittled the menu down to 25 sharply tuned dishes — bold, seasonal, Latin at the core, with French touches, Asian flourishes, and a Mexican soul.
Like a young singer whose voice aches with emotion he hasn’t lived through yet, Orozco’s cooking does not belong to someone barely in his 30s.
You taste it in the acid of his housemade giardiniera, inspired by Guatemalan curing methods, served alongside the wagyu beef tartare with chipotle mayo and avocado.
You see it in the edible flowers that he grows in his own patio and the nasturtium delicately placed atop the most perfect tetela —placed with the same precision as a brushstroke. It’s not garnish. It’s a quiet act of beauty.
The tetelas themselves — two triangle-shaped corn masa delicacies — are filled with Oaxacan cheese, seasonal mushrooms, avocado mousse, sour cream, and a creamy pinto bean purée.
Every dish reflects Orozco’s flair for presentation: smoke swirls around some, while others arrive chilled by liquid nitrogen. There’s undeniable drama at play — but it’s never empty and it always enhances the experience.
And for Orozco, food is only half the story. The rest is people.
His mission is to build leaders — especially from the same communities he came from.
Five O Four isn’t just a restaurant. It’s an opportunity — for him, for his team, and for a suburban dining scene learning to stand on its own. Orozco is helping it find its voice.
And it speaks with a kind of quiet grace that doesn’t ask for permission.
It’s not loud.
But much like his food, it holds great promise.
504 Crescent Blvd, Glen Ellyn, IL 60137
What Was Said — And What Wasn’t — at the 2025 James Beard Awards
A view of the venue during the 2025 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards on June 16, 2025 in Chicago, Illinois. (Photo by Daniel Boczarski/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation) The 2025 James Beard Awards ceremony wasn’t just a celebration of culinary excellence — it was also a fun, glitzy evening and a good excuse to throw on our Sunday best. Held at the Lyric Opera of Chicago, the event also cast a spotlight on where the industry stands in a much larger — and much more difficult — conversation.
It’s impossible to talk about food in this country without acknowledging the physical, emotional and intellectual contributions of countless immigrant communities. And yet, the backdrop was jarring: headlines blaring anti-immigrant rhetoric, immigration raids sweeping the country.
The ceremony was nothing short of emotional and stirring. So much so, I needed time to process it.
From the stage, several voices cut through with messages of courage and solidarity. But what struck me most wasn’t just who spoke up — or how — it was who didn’t.
Here are 10 moments that have stayed with me long after the curtain fell:
1.“Restaurant workers are the best of humanity.” — Arjav Ezekiel, Birdie’s
©Jeff Schear/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation Just ask Arjav Ezekiel of Birdie’s in Austin, Texas, who took home Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service — one of three new categories introduced this year, and long-overdue recognition for the people who shape how and what we drink. When the ending music tried to cut him off, he waved it off with quiet defiance: “I’m finishing my speech, guys.” His story? It’s the story of an immigrant who stared down fear and cynicism. Of growing up with the constant, gnawing fear that his family could be ripped away at any moment. But his message wasn’t bitterness — it was hope: “For all the bad people in this world, my life has taught me there are far more good ones.”
2. “So much of what we call success is shaped by things we did not choose — where we were born or what passports we carry.” — Julia Momosé, Kumiko
This year, Kumiko, the intimate Chicago cocktail bar, took home Best Cocktail Bar at the 2025 James Beard Awards.
Kumiko’s story is layered into every detail — in its polished glassware, its precise pours, its quiet confidence and great food, but at its core, it’s a story about identity.
“At Kumiko, we remember every day that we are a team of immigrants, we are children of immigrants,” Momosé said.
© Eliesa Johnson for James Beard Foundation 3. The Flags that Spoke
When Identidad’s Edrick Colón and Stephen Alonso took the stage to accept the award for Best New Bar — one of the newly minted categories — they brought more than a speech. They raised the island’s colors high.
Puerto Rico has been emerging as a serious culinary destination. From chefs reimagining island ingredients to cocktail bars like Identidad making waves on the national stage, this wasn’t just a win for a bar — it was a win for a place reclaiming its space in the global food conversation.
Throughout the night, other flags shared the stage, alongside a chorus of languages — from Spanish to Tamil to Korean — and a patchwork of folk sartorial choices reflecting the cross-section of cultures shaping American food. A reminder that the food world knows no borders, and it is precisely the collision of worlds that makes it fun, unique and delicious.
(L-R) Edrick Colon and Stephen Alonso winners of the Best New Bar award speak on stage during the 2025 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards on June 16, 2025 in Chicago, Illinois. (Photo by Jeff Schear/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation) 4. “¡A Huevo!” : A Win for Superbueno
Watching Superbueno’s Ignacio “Nacho” Jiménez take home the Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service award was pure joy. “¡A huevo!” — that cheeky, unmistakable way of saying “hell yeah” — rang out, drawing laughter from the crowd. But behind the humor was something deeper: a Mexican immigrant claiming his space, his recognition, on one of the country’s most prestigious culinary stages.
© Eliesa Johnson for James Beard Foundation 5. Chef Jon Yao’s Call to Action
Kato’s Jon Yao, representing Los Angeles and his Taiwanese American roots, used his moment as Best Chef: California to do more than celebrate.
In a city still grappling with raids and protests, Yao — who tells his immigrant story through food — made an urgent plea:
“We all deserve the freedom to pursue our dreams, to determine our own futures and to be treated with equal dignity and respect. And everyone in this room tonight has the ability and the voice to amplify that message through their own stories in their own communities. I urge all of us to please use that voice and platform.”
© Jeff Schear/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation) 6.“Be who you say you are.” — Tahiira Habibi, The Hue Society
Tahiirah Habibi isn’t just changing the wine world — she’s rewriting the guest list. As founder of The Hue Society, she’s built a movement that makes space for Black, brown and indigenous voices in the wine industry. On stage at the 2025 James Beard Awards, she kept it simple, sharp, and impossible to ignore: “Don’t let fear decide what side of history you land on.” And maybe her most important reminder — for herself, for the room, for all of us: “Be who you say you are.”
(L-R) Tahiirah Habibi and Bobby Stuckey speak on stage during the 2025 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards on June 16, 2025 in Chicago, Illinois. (Photo by Daniel Boczarski/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation) 7. Vijay Kumar’s Humble Triumph for New York
Vijay Kumar of New York’s Semma took home Best Chef: New York State — and with it, brought Tamil food — in his words, a food of celebration, survival, fire, and soul — onto one of the biggest stages in the world.
Kumar’s was a win for anyone who’s ever been told their food — their story — doesn’t belong here.
“I stand here for everyone who never thought their food belonged on a stage like this,” Kumar said.
©Daniel Boczarski/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation) 8. “All food is immigrant.” — Nando Chang, Itamae AO
A Peruvian American of Chinese descent, Nando Chang of Itamae AO took home Best Chef: South for his Japanese restaurant in Miami.
Chang’s family fled the chaos of their home country and came to the U.S., and it was in the kitchen that he found identity and belonging.
“All different types of people from all different types of backgrounds work together toward the same goal,” he said.
He closed with a truth that struck deep: “All food is immigrant.”
©Jeff Schear/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation 9. Amano’s Salvador Alamilla Honors the Women Who Shape It
Salvador Alamilla’s win at the James Beard Awards for Best Chef: Mountain was a quiet, powerful reminder of how Mexican food continues to shape and surprise American dining far beyond the expected streets of Los Angeles, Chicago, or New York.
Alamilla’s acceptance speech carried more than pride. It carried perspective. In a stage often dominated by men from major cities, he used his moment to acknowledge the team at his restaurant tucked away in Caldwell, Idaho — a place “built by strong, smart women.”
He also spoke with raw honesty about the bittersweet reality behind his success. While his story, that of an immigrant building a life and a restaurant, was being celebrated on one of the industry’s biggest stages, countless others are being silenced. Their stories may never be told.
Amano, tucked into a ruby-red corner of Idaho, has become more than a restaurant, he said: “It’s a beacon of hope for kids that look like me.”
Salvador Alamilla winner of the Best Chef: Mountain award speaks on stage during the 2025 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards on June 16, 2025 in Chicago, Illinois. (Photo by Jeff Schear/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation) 10. A Surprising Silence
This one hit hard. A place built on Mexican food and immigrant labor took the stage — and said nothing. No acknowledgment. Silence. Disorienting. Telling.
Food has always been political. Who gets to cook it. Who gets to write about it. Who profits from it.
One truth threaded through the event’s every moment: immigrants aren’t just part of the food world — they are the food world. From farms to plates, they build it, they preserve it, and carry it forward.
And in rooms like this, and in extraordinary moments like this, silence speaks just as loudly as words.
Taquería Chingón Has a New Home in Fulton Market
Taquería Chingón´s chef Marcos Ascencio Something old, something new, and something good is happening in Fulton Market.
Taquería Chingón has a new home. After shuttering their Bucktown location in 2024, they’ve taken over the former home of Cemitas Puebla at 817 W. Fulton Market, and if that name rings a bell, it should.
In a gesture equal parts homage and culinary flex, Chingón has added cemitas to its taco menu. For the uninitiated, a cemita isn’t just a sandwich. It’s Puebla on a bun — a sesame-crusted roll, usually stuffed with pulled meat, stacked high with avocado, smoky chipotle, cheese and a wild tangle of the earthy, fragrant papalo (if you’re lucky). It’s crunchy, creamy, spicy. Chingón.
The eatery’s take comes with a chicken milanesa (a breaded and fried chicken cutlet). The homage to Puebla doesn’t end there. The menu features a taco árabe made with lamb and served on a flour tortilla, a nod to Puebla’s Lebanese culinary influence.
Other highlights include an assortment of tortas, such as a steak torta and a torta ahogada — a dish that’s been showing up on more Chicago menus lately. Chingón’s version adds a twist: melted raclette.
The new space is spacious, bright and built to feed a city. A massive kitchen anchors the restaurant, giving the team room to push boundaries and — importantly — cater. And with a kitchen like that, it’s not hard to imagine them feeding everything from art parties to tech launch lunches.
Taquería Chingón still keeps its soul intact, but there’s a certain swagger to this next chapter — like they know they’ve earned the right to stretch their legs.
We were there on opening day, the line was out the door, and the message was clear: Chingón’s not just back — they’re just getting started.
From Little Village to River East: La Catedral Café Brings Heart to the High-Rises
At an age when most people are still figuring out the line between ambition and hustle, Chef Ambrocio Gonzalez was quietly building an empire.
Now, not even 40, he’s opening his fourth La Catedral Café in River East.
I’ve followed Gonzalez’s career for years — from before the original La Catedral in Little Village became a line-out-the-door mainstay, to his expansion across the city. It was never just about feeding people. Ambrocio wove himself into the fabric of the neighborhood, earning every inch of trust and respect along the way.
But what truly sets him apart is how he does everything. From designing the menu to selecting the art on the walls, Ambrocio leaves no detail untouched. He doesn’t hire decorators. The tiles, the ornaments, the plates — they come from Mexico, just like him.
He now brings that same heart to River East — a neighborhood more known for polished lobbies and corporate cafés. This isn’t where you’d expect a place like La Catedral to land. And that’s exactly the point. Ambrocio is pushing beyond the expected, giving River East something it didn’t know it needed.
Here, breakfast remains the headliner. His acclaimed chilaquiles made the trip from Little Village, as did the enfrijoladas— tortillas smothered in a rich bean sauce, topped with sour cream and salsa. I always add chicken to mine. Alongside the chilaquiles enfrijoladas are of my favorite breakfast dishes, and not an easy one to find on menus across the city.
The space, like the food, bring a sense of space and memory. In Little Village, the walls are filled with gifts from customers — religious icons, milagros, paintings to go with the restaurant’s name and church-like vibe. In River East, the art is also co-curated and personal, as most of those cherished pieces have made the journey here, carrying memory and meaning into this next chapter.
Ambrocio is more than a chef. He’s a keeper of culture. A man who knows that the power of place isn’t only in its polish, but in its purpose.
La Catedral Café, 400 E. Randolph St. Opens May 15.
Cinco Facts About Cinco de Mayo
The Mexican state of Puebla is the cradle of many iconic Mexican dishes, including mole poblano. As a Mexican transplant, the festivities around Cinco de Mayo have never resonated with me.
I’m incredibly proud of Mexico’s unlikely victory against the better-equipped—and considerably larger—French army. But I must confess: the connection between the Battle of Puebla and the stereotypical images of sombreros, cacti, and mustaches continues to puzzle me.
And while I’ve gotten better at keeping a straight face when someone wishes me a “Happy Cinco de Mayo,” I still often find myself toggling between offering a quick history lesson or simply changing the subject. How do you gently break the news that a party in honor of a Bacchus-like figure dressed in mariachi garb is not even close to how Mexicans celebrate? More importantly, it completely misses the point.
In reality, Cinco de Mayo isn’t widely celebrated in Mexico. It’s more about observing it with parades and essay contests. And there’s a day off (my favorite part). Don’t get me wrong—I’m all for celebration, but this holiday is not Mexico’s Independence Day. And Mexico’s cultural contributions can’t—and shouldn’t—be reduced to a handful of clichés.
So, if you’re planning to throw a big Cinco de Mayo party, here are cinco things to know:
Cinco de Mayo commemorates Mexico’s unlikely victory over Napoleon’s French army at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862.
Puebla is the Mexican state where you’ll find one of our finest culinary exports: mole poblano. Some of Mexico’s most iconic dishes were born in Puebla and its convents.
The victory was short-lived. Napoleon regrouped and returned two years later to conquer Mexico. Ironically, that occupation introduced a lasting touch of French influence to Mexican cuisine, an influence later reinforced by Porfirio Díaz.
Mexicans mark the occasion with parades, reenactments, and a day off from school and work.
It’s not customary to say “Happy Cinco de Mayo.” In fact, we typically don’t say anything at all.
And if you ask me? I’d still rather just get the day off.
Why We Keep Going Back to Sfera
Sfera is a Dolce Gabbana daydream Walking into Sfera feels like stepping into a Dolce & Gabbana ad—rich tile, yellows, blues, and greens. Lemons, oranges and Moor’s heads lining the shelves (two large heads used to be at the counter making the entrance more dramatic, but they seem to have been relocated). Sunlight pouring through the windows.
The first time I went, I thought, someone really cares here. Not in the curated-for-Instagram way, but in the flavor-first kind of way.
Everything is made fresh. The focaccia is baked in-house. The soups are flavorful and clearly made from scratch.
The offerings are focused, but intentional. There’s the sfincione, a thick-cut Sicilian-style pizza with a golden cheese crust. And the arancini—crisp-fried risotto balls—filled with anything from meat to mushrooms, always with a dipping sauce on the side.
The sandwiches are honest but elegant. The artichoke tapenade, with a house-made citrusy spread, roasted red pepper and arugula, is one of my favorites. So is the slow-roasted chicken, layered with red pepper–almond relish and basil pesto, served on that same focaccia.
The artichoke tapenade sandwich at Sfera. I brought this one home where I plated it. If you’re a meat lover, go for the mortadella and capicola, but I’d ask for the giardiniera on the side. You’ll want control over that kind of flavor punch.
But the thing that knocks me out EVERY time is the Sicilian hot chocolate. Spiced with citrus and made with their house-made syrup, it’s topped with three pillowy marshmallows that melt slowly as you sip. Decadent? Yes—but not over the top and not too sweet. I know this is technically a winter drink, but honestly? This gives me a reason to no longer mind if it’s snowing in April.
Desserts here aren’t an afterthought. There’s a cherry-pistachio cupcake filled with sweet ricotta and a candied Door County cherry, topped with crushed pistachios, and rose petals. It’s as beautiful as it is delicious. And you will have a hard time finding better cannoli in Chicago.
The menu features vegan and gluten-free options, too—and none of them feel like a compromise.
The hospitality is remarkable. We love that dogs are welcome well beyond the patio, which is always such a relief when your family includes four-legged members. Our favorite pup never leaves without a treat.
Sfera also caters and ships—yes, they’ll send a little of this joy across the country.
It’s rare to find a place that does both: beauty and heart, but Sfera pulls it off.
And every time we go, we all leave happy.
Alfonso Sotelo’s 5 Rabanitos Brings Pilsen’s Spirit to Hyde Park
Chef Alfonso Sotelo opened 5 Rabanitos in Pilsen nearly a decade ago, showcasing his take on regional Mexican cuisine. Now in Hyde Park, that same spirit is at the center of the bustling space on 53rd Street — and yes, it’s already packed.
A mural featuring five little radishes, or ‘rabanitos,’ a delightful homage to the nickname Sotelo and his four siblings earned as children while selling radishes at the market. The Frontera alum credits his team for making the second location happen — and a true family effort, with his son Fernando now managing the Hyde Park restaurant. Chef Sotelo’s menu carries over a few of the standout dishes that made the original a Pilsen favorite, alongside new additions like a fish taco and a crispy fried chicken taco.
But we cannot stop thinking of the shrimp chile relleno — a roasted poblano, lightly battered and filled with melted cheese, resting in a mellow, gently spicy sauce. It’s served alongside shrimp marinated in serrano and cilantro and freshly made tortillas.
Chile relleno with shrimp is only available at 5 Rabanitos in Hyde Park. It’s fascinating to watch Mexican restaurants stretch beyond traditional enclaves — carving out space, gathering crowds, and thriving in new corners of the city.
Find more on our recent story for Eater Chicago.
A Life of Service: Why Taquizas Valdez Deserves a Spot on Your List
The team behindt Taquizas Valdez Some meals feed your body. Others feed yo ur soul. That’s exactly what’s happening at Taquizas Valdez, a new spot in Irving Park where chef Iván Valdez, who has dedicated his life to service—first in the military, is now in the kitchen. The mission? It’s still the same. To serve with purpose. To honor where he comes from.
Step inside, and you immediately feel that this place is personal. A mural on the wall tells Valdez’s story—his time in the Marine Corps his years in Chicago’s restaurant scene and, most importantly, his bond with his late mother, Rosa, whose dishes were creative and from the heart. This philosophy is the foundation of Taquizas Valdez.
Just like the mural on the wall, the menu—a lineup of tacos and tortas—speaks to the places, experiences and people that have shaped Valdez’s life.
Take the Americano taco, a nod to his Midwestern upbringing—steak and Muenster cheese folded into a flour tortilla. The cheese, rich and buttery, adds just enough tang to keep things interesting. Then there’s the pollo al limón—lime-marinated chicken thigh, onion, cilantro, avocado and Fresno chiles-— bright, punchy, a wink to Mexico’s obsession with lime.
The Americano taco at Taquizas Valdez Mushroom taco Chuy style Pollo al limón taco Then there’s the torta de chilaquiles—a Mexico City darling, from the same place Valdez’s parents call home, finally getting the love it deserves in Chicago. And the pambazo? Traditionally, it’s fried guajillo-soaked bread stuffed with potatoes and chorizo, but here, it’s filled with mushrooms. Not just any mushrooms—Chuy’s Mushrooms, named after one of the team members. A quiet nod to the hands that shape this kitchen and make the magic happen.
We were lucky to be introduced to this restaurant at a special event. We kicked things off with chicken wings, slicked in a choice of salsa verde, salsa roja or mole—the kind of thing you instantly wish was a fixture on the menu. Then came some carne asada sope, and the shrimp ceviche with salsa macha, which was an unexpected but welcome hit.
The tacos? The Americano and al pastor took the top spot for us. The al pastor had a nice marinade—not soggy, not overworked. The meat isn’t cubed. And while there’s no charcoal grill lending that signature kiss of char and the taste of fire that makes an al pastor irresistible if you’re craving one, this taco still hits the spot.
Mushroom taco Chuy style 
Taco al Pastor All taco fillings are available as tortas. There’s a Build-Your-Own (BYO) Taco option—a nod to Mexico’s taquizas at casual gatherings, where tables overflow with fillings, salsas and toppings for everyone to craft their perfect bite. At Taquizas Valdez you have your choice of corn or flour tortilla, toppings and salsas.
And that pizza oven? It came with the place, a relic from the restaurant before it. But Valdez saw something else—not just what it was, but what it could be. Now, it’s a bread oven, turning out fresh bolillos and pastries instead of pies. A quiet nod to Chicago’s deep pizza culture, with a twist. Because why the hell not? Reinvention is part of the story here—just like Valdez’s own.
But what really makes Taquizas Valdez special isn’t just the food—it’s the people. The team here is incredible, bringing creativity, pride and heart to every dish. And at a time when connection and culture matter more than ever, places like this remind us that, in the end, community is what food is all about.
Rosca, Tamales, and the Magic of Mexico’s Candlemas
A baby Jesus figurine is found in a slice of Rosca de Reyes. The person who discovers the figurine is responsible for sponsoring tamales for the gathered group. In Mexico, the air is thick with the steam and aroma of tamales on the eve of February 2. But the story begins weeks earlier around the table with rosca de Reyes, a sweet, circular, firm brioche-like bread adorned with sugar and dried fruits, symbolizing the crown of the Magi who traveled to meet baby Jesus. Baked inside is a hidden plastic or porcelain figurine, a nod to the biblical story of Mary and Joseph’s efforts to hide their newborn from Herod’s wrath.
Whoever finds the figurine in their slice—each person cuts their own—becomes the padrino of the upcoming feast, tasked with providing tamales for everyone present. It’s an honor, sure, but some slyly angle their slice away from the center, hoping to dodge the tiny guest hidden inside. Others, upon finding it, might pause for a split second before casually tucking it into their cheek, as if nothing happened. Sharing the rosca de Reyes is a communal ritual and a delicious way to keep the tradition alive.
Tamales, the heart and soul of the Día de la Candelaria feast, are a culinary marvel in their own right. Crafted from corn masa that has undergone the ancient, transformative process of nixtamalization, these bundles of joy are a testament to the depth and breadth of Mexican cuisine. Whether wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves—depending on the region—and steamed to perfection, each tamal carries the imprint of generations past, shaped by indigenous techniques, Spanish influence, and local ingredients.
But describing their physical preparation alone ignores the mysticism that runs through the kitchen; it’s believed that the energy brought to the tamal-making process—whether through dance, prayer, or the rhythm of music—affects the outcome, turning a simple meal into a communal exercise in alchemy.
Día de la Candelaria marks the day Jesus was presented at the temple and coincides with the first day of the Aztec calendar. Tamales were the food of choice for the feast, as many pre-Hispanic gods received corn offerings—it was believed that humans were made of corn.
But beyond its religious roots, the feast is a communal affair—one that unfolds in kitchens and dining rooms across Mexico and beyond. Sharing tamales on Día de la Candelaria is a reminder of the enduring power of food to bring people together across generations. It’s a tradition that doesn’t just honor the past; it stitches it into the present, inviting family and friends to the table to continue a story that is still being written, and like everything that is Mexico, it always entails a little bit of magic.
Mexico City Bites We’d Go Back For: A Handful of Mexico City’s Unmissable Eats
To me, Mexico City is more than just a destination—it’s home. Over the years, the city has transformed, and its culinary scene is now celebrated on the global stage. Yet beneath the international accolades and newfound spotlight, the “City of Palaces” remains the same warm, bubbly friend who invites you to a party every single day.
I’m lucky to visit regularly. On our most recent trip, we explored a vibrant mix of old favorites eateries and exciting newcomers. Yes, we’ve already checked off many of the headliners—Pujol, Migrante, Quintonil, Máximo Bistrot. In CDMX, good food isn’t just a luxury—it’s everywhere. With the Michelin Guide’s recent arrival in Mexico City, well-deserved recognition is finally being given to establishments, with winners popping up in places you’d least expect.
This list highlights some of the city’s rising stars alongside a few beloved spots we’ve cherished for decades. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned explorer of Mexico City’s vibrant food scene, these are the places we keep going back to.
Au Pied de Cochon
Nestled within the Presidente InterContinental Hotel in Polanco, Au Pied de Cochon delivers a slice of Parisian charm right in the heart of Mexico City. Open 24/7, this French family-friendly brasserie is beloved by locals for its exceptional breakfasts, indulgent late-night beverages, and spectacular desserts.
While nearby Saks offers a lovely patio and an extensive drink menu, Au Pied de Cochon stands out with its superior late-night offerings.
Café LunaArena
Baklava topped with pistachio ice cream at LunaArena. Mexico City’s coffee scene reflects the city itself—layered, dynamic, and intrinsically diverse. With its Turkish coffee, Café LunaArena slides seamlessly into this mosaic, adding its own color (and spice) to the narrative. Tucked into a vibrant storefront in the famous Condesa neighborhood, the coffee—in all its forms—warm, cold, bold, delicate…
And then there’s the baklava. Order the plate that arrives with pistachio ice cream. If you can, grab a table outside and stay for a while, like the locals do.
There’s a second location in Roma Norte, but I’d recommend starting with Condesa. While both have charm, the Roma Norte spot stands out in character and execution.
Café Nin
From cocktails to tea, Café Nin offers a creative array of options. Nestled in a charming Porfirian townhouse in Colonia Juárez, Café Nin lives up to the social media buzz that has likely already brought it to your attention. The large windows invite natural light to pour in, bathing the space in a warm, inviting glow. We stumbled in during a thunderstorm and were instantly delighted by the pan dulce. Drink options are thoughtful and extensive, we ordered a mint and pinenut tea. There’s a small patio if you want to enjoy the year-round benign weather.
El Cardenal
Seasonal chiles en nogada at El Cardenal El Cardenal is a portal to Mexico’s rich culinary heritage, right in the heart of Mexico City’s Centro Histórico. Tucked inside a gorgeous French-style building, the flagship location on Calle de la Palma has made the restaurant a favorite of locals. Sitting here, you’re part of something bigger. You’re sharing the table with families, visitors and businessmen who’ve made this their spot for more than five decades.
The menu is a tribute to the traditions that define Mexican cuisine, spotlighting flavors from states like Veracruz, Tlaxcala, and Hidalgo, all crafted with time-honored techniques. Consider starting your day here. The conchas with nata—sweet, airy brioche served with rich, creamy clotted cream—are the kind of thing you dream about. Pair them with their signature hot chocolate and thank me later.
If you go for lunch of dinner, live trios fill the space with music and play songs on request (ask for price per song). The service is warm and effortless, like it’s been perfected over decades (because it has). El Cardenal is more than a restaurant—it’s a place where tradition lives on, and where every visit feels like coming home.
El Califa de León
México City´s El Califa de León El Califa de León isn’t just a taco stand—it’s proof that simplicity done right can be extraordinary. Since 1968, this family-owned taquería in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood has mastered the art of letting quality shine.
Do not let the lines deter you, they move quickly. Be prepared to enjoy your taco street side, as there is only a small bar with three stools.
The menu is straightforward, but you’re here for the gaonera—a thinly sliced beef cut kissed with salt and lime, grilled to perfection, and served on a freshly made corn tortilla. Do not skip on the smokey red salsa.
In 2024, El Califa de León became the world’s first taco stand to earn a Michelin star, a testament to its unwavering dedication to tradition and craft. If you’re wondering whether to go, the answer is yes.
Note: There is a taquería chain named “El Califa”. They are not the same restaurant. El Califa de León is in the San Rafael neighborhood.
El Rincón de La Lechuza
Tacos here are exceptional, with handmade tortillas constantly being pressed and grilled to perfection. The menu includes not only classics—yes, you’re here for al pastor—but also unique offerings like liver and rajas, perfect for adventurous palates.
And let’s not forget the quesos fundidos. These melted cheese delights are seasoned with a diverse selection of toppings, making them irresistible.
Ficelle
For lovers of pastry and pan dulce, Ficelle is a dream. This French-inspired café and bakery brings a slice of Paris to the heart of Mexico City, with artisanal breads, croissants, and delicately beautiful cakes. There’s a little patio outside,Gaudir
Gaudir´s celebrated chef Cesc Durán We discovered Gaudir, tucked away in the Verónica Anzures neighborhood, through the recommendation of wine expert Sandra Buch, and after a trip to Barcelona. Our first visit took place long before Chef Cesc Durán earned his well-deserved spot as one of Food & Wine en Español’s Best New Chefs of 2024. Together with his wife, Gaby, ched Durán has crafted a space where his passion and talent create a dining experience that feels both elevated and deeply personal.
The menu is an homage to Catalán cuisine, with Durán’s meticulous technique shining in every dish. The oxtail cannelloni is unforgettable, but truthfully, everything we’ve tried has been remarkable. The wine pairings are thoughtful and expertly curated, and the team’s warm, attentive hospitality makes you feel as though you’ve been welcomed into their home.
While parking is easy, the restaurant itself is tucked into a residential area, so it can be a bit tricky to spot. But trust me—once you find it, you’ll be glad you did.
Restaurante San Ángel Inn
Mexico City is home to many iconic haciendas-turned-restaurants, but Hacienda de San Ángel holds a special kind of magic. Its intimate courtyard, lush gardens, and serenading trios create an atmosphere that feels both romantic and quintessentially Mexican.
Start your meal with escamoles—buttery, nutty ant eggs that are a delicacy worth trying. Wash them down with one of the hacienda’s exceptional margaritas. You are here for traditional Mexican food and it´s all great. Located just a short walk from Frida Kahlo’s house, this hacienda is a celebration of everything extraordinary about Mexico.
Iwashi
If you’re craving something unexpected, Edo Kobayashi´s Sushi Iwashi is the place to be. This intimate, 14-seat sushi bar blends classic Japanese techniques with the freshest ingredients, creating sushi that melts in your mouth. Even the desserts impress. On our last visit, a peach and ricotta mochi stole the show. In a city brimming with culinary excellence, Iwashi proves that sometimes simplicity, executed flawlessly, is all you need.
Masala y Maíz
Masala y Maíz takes you on a journey through the culinary crossroads of Mexico, India, and East Africa. What began as a research project by chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval has evolved into a vibrant culinary space where migration, trade, and tradition converge.
Each dish tells a story. From suadero samosas to a ceviche adorned with uchuva’s sweet tartness and the crunch of a papadam, every bite feels like poetry. The menu is a celebration of intertwined flavors, blending histories and traditions into something entirely new.
Beyond the food, Masala y Maíz uses its platform to explore social justice, art, and environmental issues. However, while the dishes are exceptional, our experience came with a caveat—the service didn’t quite match the culinary brilliance. Still, the food’s artistry makes it worth a visit, though it’s best to temper your expectations when it comes to hospitality.
Siembra Comedor y Tortillería
Soft shell blue crab taco at Siembra Comedor y Tortillería Siembra Comedor y Tortillería pays homage to Mexico’s agricultural heritage, with a focus on sustainable, seasonal farming. Chefs Israel Montero and Karina Mejía craft a menu that’s deeply rooted in the traditions of the milpa, offering dishes that are both innovative and timeless.
Highlights include milpa soup, with the chewy masa dumplings known and chocolates for delightful texture contrast, and a softshell crab taco that lingers in our minds. The heirloom corn tortillas are a revelation, adding depth and authenticity to every bite. The hospitality is equally remarkable—warm, thoughtful, and genuine. If you’re debating between the taquería and comedor, start here. Note there is a standalone taquería, Siembra, that is part of the same group. We tried both. Service is spectacular throughout, but the food at the comedor is superior.
Taquería Selene
My parents have been Taquería Selene fans since the ’70s, and according to them, I had my first taste of their tacos al pastor while still in the womb. Maybe that’s why this place holds such a gravitational pull over my family.
If tacos are a love language, Taquería Selene speaks it fluently. The tacos al pastor—juicy, perfectly spiced pork with just a whisper of sweetness from the pineapple—are a tribute to the magic of street food done right. Decades later, Selene is still calling us back. Don’t skip the “gringa,” an al pastor taco with cheese.
Service is extraordinarily attentive and efficient. Come prepared to write down your order on a little form, as is the norm at most taquerías. Ordering ‘con todo’ means cilantro, onion, and pineapple if you’re getting al pastor. Limes come standard—use them liberally.
Tajín
Duck chile en nogada by El Tajín´s Ana María Arroyo. In the cultural hub of Coyoacán, El Tajín stands as a beacon of regional Mexican cuisine. Founded in 1993 by the iconic Alicia Gironella and Giorgio De’ Angeli, the restaurant celebrates the diverse flavors of Michoacán, Guerrero, Yucatán, and Veracruz.
Led by Chef Ana María Arroyo, the menu showcases traditional recipes like Michoacán charales (smelt) and seasonal specialties such as chiles en nogada, which we were lucky to savor. El Tajín also hosts unique culinary events that honor Mexico’s rich gastronomic heritage, making it a place where history and innovation coexist beautifully.
Wine Bar by CMB
For wine lovers, Wine Bar by CMB is a destination unto itself. Created by the renowned Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, this sophisticated yet approachable spot offers award-winning wines and spirits from around the globe, available by the glass, bottle, or curated flights.
The food, crafted by Chef Daniel Nates, is equally exceptional. His inventive take on Mexican cuisine elevates each dish, making it a perfect pairing for the bar’s stellar wine selection.
I celebrated my birthday here, and it was unforgettable. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or just beginning your wine journey, Wine Bar by CMB deserves a spot on your list.
For lovers of pastry and pan dulce, Ficelle is a dream. This French-inspired café and bakery brings a slice of Paris to the heart of Mexico City, with artisanal breads, croissants, and delicately beautiful cakes. There’s a little patio outside,
