From Ocean to Table: #PescaConFuturo ‘s Mission for Sustainable Seafood in Mexico
#Pesca con Futuro” is making waves in Mexico by promoting the sustainable use of local fish and seafood. This initiative has been recognized with a nomination for the “Best Producer or Promoter of Sustainable Products” at the Food and Travel Reader Awards 2023.
Led by Citlalli Gómez Lepe, #PescaConFuturo focuses on three main objectives: educating fishermen about sustainable practices, connecting producers with businesses to advocate for sustainability, and informing consumers about eco-friendly seafood options. The movement has united over 130 chefs, academics, and researchers, all dedicated to demonstrating how consuming he right seafood can positively impact our oceans.
#PescaConFuturo also provides resources, including a map and a guide to sustainable seafood in Mexico, along with a list of producers, distributors, and restaurateurs available at www.pescaconfuturo.com.
The “Best Producer or Promoter of Sustainable Products” category aims to recognize those in the industry committed to environmental stewardship while producing, distributing, or serving high-quality products.
Voting for the Food and Travel Reader Awards 2023 is open at https://foodandtravel.mx/reader-awards/ and concludes tomorrow, Friday, February 9. Participants simply need to complete a form to vote for their favorites across 28 categories. The winners will be announced on February 22 after a thorough tally.
Follow Pesca con Futuro on Instagram at @PescaConFuturo.
Unforgettable Dining at Celler de Can Roca
I’m excited to share with you in a little more detail our recent visit to the legendary Three-Michelin Star Celler de Can Roca in Girona, which is, without a doubt, a bucket-list-worthy experience and my favorite destination of 2023
The restaurant is a testament to the talent, passion, and know-how of the Roca brothers- head chef Joan Roca, sommelier Josep Roca, and pastry chef Jordi Roca. Embodying the values passed down from their parents– authenticity, hospitality, and generosity, this family team offers a journey through Catalan flavors with an innovative twist in an atmosphere that is sophisticated but warm and unpretentious.
The restaurant’s décor is organic, with plenty of natural lighting and a beautiful courtyard that welcomes guests as they arrive. We were greeted by a hostess and immediately seated at a table by a floor-to-ceiling window. Our area was divided by a console, making the space feel more like we were in our dining room. The service was nothing short of outstanding, with a dedicated team of savvy 2-3 team members ensuring a delightful and seamless experience throughout our visit.
From its creative cuisine to its exceptional wine list and pairings, it is no wonder why Celler de Can Roca has received national and international acclaim for decades. The dining experience is a spectacular balancing act between innovation and tradition. The ever-changing menu features locally sourced ingredients that speak of the region’s cuisine with an avant-garde play on textures and temperatures. Under Jordi Roca’s expert hand, desserts are whimsical creations that amuse the palate and the imagination.
There are two menu options, one featuring twelve dishes and three desserts and an abridged one with five dishes and two desserts. We were already there, so we went big. We also enjoyed the magnificent, thoughtful pairings.
Booking a table at Celler de Can Roca is no small feat, and we owe a huge THANK YOU to our friends who made this dream a reality. If you ever get the chance to dine here, plan ahead. The calendar opens 11 months in advance, and the restaurant is closed for a few weeks a year. If you are lucky to snag a spot, take it!
And while in Girona, take the time to explore the town’s medieval charm. Stroll through the cobblestone streets that once set the scene for #GameofThrones. Girona is an impressive destination in its own right, but just keep in mind that finding transportation can be a bit tricky as this is a small city. We explored on foot and eventually connected with a local taxi company. Speaking Spanish was definitely a plus in navigating! We recommend arranging transportation ahead of time.
Meeting the celebrated pastry chef Jordi Roca was a fantastic end to our visit. Getting to snap a few photos with him is a memory I’ll treasure forever.
Here are some snapshots of our culinary adventure.
Carrer de Can Sunyer, 48, 17007 Girona, Spain
Price (at publication)
Feast menu: €250
Pairing (optional) €130
Tasting menu: €215
Pairing (optional) €85
Celebrating Día de Reyes with Mexico’s Rosca de Reyes
Photo: Expendio Tradiciòn, Oaxaca, Mèxico via Azucena Suárez Much like piñatas, which symbolize victory over sin through faith, the tradition of sharing Rosca de Reyes in Mexico to celebrate Día de Reyes or Three Kings Day is, at its core, an evangelizing tool that recounts the story of the three kings arriving in Bethlehem to meet baby Jesus. There is significant religious symbolism in this bread, which is reminiscent of the French Galette des Rois. For instance, its shape represents endless divine love, and the hidden plastic babies within the bread symbolize baby Jesus hiding from Herod. Families typically share Rosca de Reyes early in January, often on the night of the 5th. The bread is usually adorned with fruit and sugar, resembling the jewels on the kings’ crowns, and it is enjoyed with coffee or hot chocolate.
The person who finds the plastic baby in their slice of bread is traditionally responsible for providing tamales and atole to everyone in attendance at the gathering on February 2nd. This custom refers to the practice of presenting infants at the temple 40 days after birth. Tamales are a nod to pre-Hispanic offerings, and the date aligns with a pre-Hispanic holiday where corn was blessed.
La Rosca de Reyes: Una Tradición Que Cruza Fronteras
Brenda Storch nos habló del simbolismo de la Rosca de Reyes, y cómo es que esta tradición ha tomando fuerza en los Estados Unidos en su programa “Sazón, Razón y Corazón” en WKRS en Chicago.
Esta entrevista tuvo lugar el 8 de enero del 2021.
Unveiling My Top Eats of 2023
2023 was incredible to us in unsuspected and meaningful ways!
As the year draws to a close, I can’t help but reflect on the unforgettable culinary journey we embarked on this year that went way beyond the streets of #Chicago.
Here is a quick recap and a list of my top three favorites:
1. Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain
2. Apron in Vienna, Austria
3. Gaudir in Mexico City, Mexico.
A Delicious Melange
Our year started with bubbles and a waltz in Vienna, where I fell hard for melange- a very light cappuccino-like drink. Coffee always seems to be consistently mind-blowing here, and I have not found anything quite like it outside of Vienna. Beyond the beans, I believe the secret might be in the quality of the city’s water. Food in Vienna surprised us by being equally fantastic, affordable, AND ubiquitous. I developed a taste for street-side Wiener schnitzels and sampled the array of sausages available. There is definitely pastry prowess in the city, and I visited Gerstner for cake and spiked coffee many, many times during our stay. Many of the most popular places in Vienna have long waiting lines. Consider this as you plan your visit. We discovered that Gerstner has an impeccable operation and is conveniently located right across from the Opera House.
We celebrated my birthday at Apron, which was a revelation. Set against the backdrop of the city’s historic charm, this restaurant offers a modern interpretation of Austrian cuisine. The elegance of its décor matches the sophistication of its dishes. I am partial to unpretentious excellence, and Apron excels at this. Each course was a masterpiece, meticulously prepared and exquisitely presented, showcasing the best of Austrian flavors and seasonal ingredients with a contemporary twist. Service is absolutely world-class, and there’s an open kitchen, so you can feel like you are part of the action. Don’t miss it if you ever visit! It won’t disappoint.
Apron is exciting, fun, and approachable. Some Stops in the U.S.
In the U.S., we got to visit Atlanta, where we remember a fascinating Persian meal at Rumi’s Kitchen with friends. Later, we returned to my old stomping grounds in Memphis, where I missed the barbecue this time but went for the legendary popovers at Paulette’s. We made a stop in Nashville, where we waited for hours for the Maíz de la Vida taco truck to start serving their delicious birria consommé and tacos.
We also traveled to Santa Barbara, where we most memorably had a bespoke picnic by the ocean at the Rosewood and enjoyed asada tacos at famous (and on Julia Child’s favorite list) La Super Rica.
Later, our travels would take us to the incredible Barcelona. I had no bad meals in this beautiful city and fell hard for Vermouth to the point I had to import a few bottles from Celler del Remei. I discovered Suizos, thick chocolate with clotted cream, at historic La Pallaresa; we enjoyed delicious fried boquerones and wine from barrels at La Plata and sampled award-winning establishments like Paradiso and Maleducat, which I still have to write about. All FANTASTIC! Barcelona, by the way, has a legit #taco game!
The Unforgettable El Celler de Can Roca
BUT, the #1 highlight of 2023 was the unforgettable we made to one of the best restaurants in the world, three-Michelin star Celler de Can Roca in Girona. Renowned for its creative approach to Catalan cuisine, the Roca brothers’ knowledge and passion for gastronomy is evident in every dish, which was, at the same time, a feast for the taste buds and visual art. At the end of the meal, we met celebrated pastry chef Jordi Roca, who generously let us take a few pictures with him. I will hold this experience dear to my heart forever. The place is impossible to book, and rightfully so. We were lucky to have a little help from some friends. THANK YOU! If you visit, set some time aside to explore the medieval city of Girona, which serves as a backdrop to some scenes in #GameofThrones. Girona is a tiny city, and finding transportation is not that easy, so it is best to plan ahead. We had to walk quite a bit and eventually found a local taxi company. Luckily, Spanish is my mother tongue, but it took some effort.
Bucket-list worthy, El Celler de Can Roca is worth a visit. A Taste of Catalunya in México City
The holidays took me home to Mexico City, where I visited a mix of all-time favorites, new restaurants, and taco stands like El Vilsito in Colonia Narvarte; we particularly loved Raíz and the famous Cantina Limantour. I will write about these later! The culinary highlight of our trip to México City was Gaudir in Colonia Anzúres. The tiny little restaurant stood out with its traditional recipes (yes, I was looking for a Catalunya fix). Mexico is such a rich culinary destination, and I always go for Mexican cuisine when I am there, but I am so glad I strayed this time! Our Catalán friends recommended this destination and helped us arrange a party for Enrico with a special menu featuring oxtail cannelloni and a foie gras bite so delicate and delicious that we have been remembering for days. This place is newer, and it is not located in any of the leading food corridors, so go before it is discovered if you are in #CDMX
Gaudir surprised us with their refined execution of traditional Catalonian recipes. A big shout out to all of our friends, old and new, and to our families for making this year an unforgettable one, and while we are looking back with profound gratitude for all the gifts we received this year, we do not forget for a second that people around the world are suffering.
What are your favorite culinary experiences of 2023?
May 2024 bring you and yours much peace, wisdom, health, and abundance.
Rosca de Reyes – A Slice of Gospel and Tradition #Recipe
Photo Credit: “El Deleite”. Often used as evangelizing tools, celebrations in Mexico feature elements that are charged with symbolism. Take the piñata, for example, used as an allegory of sin (colorful and appealing on the outside, yet hollow and empty on the inside). Still today, during parties, people are blindfolded (a nod to faith being blind) when facing the piñata, which will yield fruits once fought and defeated.
The Rosca de Reyes (cake of kings) is no exception. Even as I type, kids who have been taught to expect the arrival of the three kings or magi, during Epiphany have already gone to bed with the hopes of finding gifts by their shoes when they awake. This festivity marks the culmination of the “12 Days of Christmas”.
Rosca de Reyes is shaped and decorated as if it were a crown. Inside, little figurines representing baby Jesus while in hiding from Herod can be found. Whomever discovers the figurine it their slice of rosca gets to share their good fortune- they will buy tamales for the group on February 2nd, to celebrate the presentation of Christ at the temple.
Without even knowing it, tradition is celebrated and perpetuated in a delicious slice that is typically enjoyed with a cup of hot chocolate.
Yanet Hernández Tabiel, owner of “El Deleite”, a bakery in Mexico City, shared her popular recipe with La Vitamina T readers.
Ingredients:
- 1 tbsp of yeast
- 5 1/2 cups of flour
- 1/2 cup of sugar
- 1 tbsp of vanilla extract
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup of milk
- 3 eggs
- 3 egg yolks
- 3/4 cup of butter
- 1 1/2 cups of crystallized fruit
- 1/2 cup of warm water
- 5 plastic “muñequitos de rosca” (plastic rosca dolls). These can be substituted with large beans.
For the butter crumble:
- 1 cup of butter
- 1 cup of sugar
- 1 egg
- 1 tbsp vanilla extract
Instructions:
- Combine the yeast with one of the tablespoons of flour and the warm water. Let rest for 1o mins. or until it’s foamy
- Combine the remaining flour with the sugar, vanilla extract, salt and milk in a mixing bowl. Mix until incorporated. Add the eggs and the yolks.
- Continue mixing until smooth. Add the yeast and mix until you have a smooth, and flexible ball.
- Add the butter and continue mixing until fully incorporated.
- Add the mix in a bowl and cover it with a damp cloth. Keep at room temperature until it doubles in volume.
- Make a dimple with your finger and knead.
- Extend the dough into a rectangular shape, add the crystallized fruit and the plastic dolls. Twirl to form a crown shape.
Crumble and Decoration
- Mix the butter with the sugar, eggs and the vanilla extract
- Decorate the rosca with strips of this mix.
- Glaze your rosca with the eggwash and decorate it with crystallized fruits
- Bake for an hour at 375 degrees or until golden brown
Enjoy!
Tamales y Atole: Corazón de Maíz y Alma de la Fiesta
Foto: Bertha Herrera para La Vitamina T. Copyright © 2019. All Rights Reserved. Se aproxima una de las fechas con mayor arraigo en México, el Día de la Candelaria. Una fecha donde se festeja con los ricos tamales, sin olvidar los infaltables atoles
POR MARICHUY GARDUÑO/ FOTO: BERTHA HERRERA
De fresa, guayaba, mamey, avena, y el tradicional champurrado, el atole es una de las bebidas con mayor arraigo en el pueblo mexicano. Por ello, este 2 de febrero no puede faltar esta bebida para acompañar los tamales y festejar en grande con familiares y amigos.
Los registros históricos mencionan que esta preparación ya se realizaba desde tiempos prehispánicos, donde se elaboraba con maíz.
De hecho, Sebastián Vertí en su libro clásico de la Navidad en México que, maíz y cacao eran los ingredientes principales de las bebidas prehispánicas en dosis y combinaciones variables y con agregado de diversos aderezos y miel.
DIVERSAS PREPARACIONES
“Los atoles se preparan hoy como hace muchos siglos, con maíz cocido, molido y disuelto en agua. Actualmente, todas las clases sociales exaltan las virtudes de su sabor y consistencia”, expresa Vertí.
El autor agrega que esta bebida acompaña tamales o panes dulces, los atoles se sirven en tazas o en tazones y siempre calientes. Justamente para que no se enfríen, se vierte en un cucharón directamente de la olla de barro o de peltre donde se preparan.
En cada región de México los preparan de maneras diferentes. Las recetas que consignamos dan una idea de las posibles variaciones. Todos son de sencillas preparaciones.
En la República Mexicana se encuentran atoles con diversos productos que crean un gusto diferente. En Morelos y Guerrero los elaboran de piña y ciruela, en Veracruz de coco, y de zarzamora en tierras michoacanas los hay maíz blanco o de changunga, que es una frutilla, como él nanche.
Champurrado de chocolate
PARA 20 PORCIONES
Ingredientes:
1 ½ litros de agua
1 raja de canela
150 gramos de azúcar
150 gramos de masa de maíz para tortillas
2 tablillas de chocolate de metate de 90 gramos cada una
1 cucharadita de concentrado de vainilla
1 HORA DE PREPARACIÓN
Poner a hervir el agua, canela y azúcar. Aparte diluir la masa en agua fría. Añadir al agua hirviendo la masa, ya diluida. Mezclar constantemente. Trozar el chocolate y añadir a la mezcla anterior. Dejar a fuego lento, mezclando constantemente por aproximadamente 20 minutos. Añadir la vainilla. Checar la consistencia en líquido y azúcar, dejar hervir, retirar y servir.
Para deleite de nuestros lectores, tenemos el placer y la buena fortuna de publicar el trabajo de nuestras colaboradoras, la periodista Marichuy Garduño y la fotógrafa Bertha Herrera. Encuentren más sobre estas pioneras del periodismo gastronómico en México en su página www.conapetito.com.mx
Marichuy Garduño
Periodista gastronómica con 25 años de experiencia. Ha trabajado en los suplementos culinarios de los diarios más importantes de México como Buena Mesa, Reforma; Menú impreso y Online, de El Universal. Actualmente es editora de Pimienta, Excélsior.
A lo largo de su carrera, Marichuy ha entrevistado a varias personalidades del medio gastronómico, de la política y la literatura, entre los que destacan Enrique Olvera, Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, Alicia Gironella, Massimo Bottura, Gastón Acurio, Alex Atala, Robert Mondavi, Carlos Monsiváis, Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas, Elena Poniatowska y Jacobo Zabludovsky entre otros.
Bertha HerreraComunicóloga de profesión, fotógrafa por convicción. Chilanga de nacimiento, oaxaqueña de corazón. Adicta a capturar imágenes, a resaltar las texturas de las cosas y de las personas. A lo largo de 23 años ha retratado grandes personajes vinculados con la gastronomía, la arquitectura, la moda, el diseño, la cultura, se ha especializado en la fotografía gastronómica, tomando cursos de food styling en en el Culinary de Nueva York.
Ha trabajado en dos de los periódicos más importantes de México como son El Reforma y El Universal, y ha colaborado para revistas relacionadas con estilos de vida, como El Gourmet, Chilango, In Style, Ha sido testigo de la transformación que ha habido dentro de la gastronomía mexicana. Para su lente han posado iconos de la cocina mexicana como Carmen Ramírez Degollado, Patricia Quintana, Alicia Gironella, Giorgio D´ Angeli, Mónica Patiño y grandes cocineras tradicionales como Abigail Mendoza, Deyanira Aquino, Benedicta Alejo. También destacados chefs como Ferran Adrià, René Redzepi , Joan Roca, Massimo Botura Juan Mari Arzac , e infinidad de personajes famosos del mundo del espectáculo, la moda, la arquitectura, la cultura.
Como dice la canción “veinte años no es nada”, pero para ella han sido un cúmulo de experiencia en el ha conocido y viajado. Bertha ha hecho la fotografía para tres libros relacionados con la gastronomía. El libro acerca del chile es el que más emoción le ha causado.
¡Llegaron las ánimas! – Los Fieles Difuntos están de fiesta y disfrutarán de un bollo elaborado en su honor: el pan de muerto
Foto: Bertha Herrera POR MARICHUY GARDUÑO/ FOTOS: BERTHA HERRERA
Como cada año la Catrina llegó
Y la fecha se cumplió
Porque a tú mesa muy puntual llegó
Contenta con la fiesta muy galana se presentó
Y a todos invitaba muy contenta a quien la visitó
Pasen, pasen decía, vengan todos a comer
Y un rico pan de muertos disfrutó.
El pan de muerto dulce, esponjoso, adornado con cuatro o más canillas y espolvoreado con azúcar blanca o solferina es una delicia de temporada. Este es preparado de harina de trigo, manteca, agua de azahar, raspadura de naranja y anís. Se trata de una especialidad que no puede faltar en las ofrendas mexicanas.
Por ello, no es raro ver dibujadas, en las vitrinas de las panaderías de México, a las Catrinas sentadas a la mesa comiendo gustosas su delicioso pan de muerto.
Sin duda, un antojo irresistible cuando se sopea con una taza humeante de chocolate, elaborado ya sea con leche o agua.
En el texto El Pan Nuestro de Cada Día, editado por la Cámara Nacional de la Industria Panificadora (Canainpa), se menciona que en varios estados de la República Mexicana se hacen los panes de diferentes formas, entre los que destacan: ánimas, vírgenes, borregos, conejos, campesinos, sombreros, flores y calaveras, entre otras.
VERSATILIDAD CULINARIA
Actualmente, estos bollos tradicionales son elaborados de forma muy original y con rellenos que van desde nata, cajeta, arándanos, hasta flores comestibles.
Por ejemplo, la chef Ana María Arroyo, del restaurante El Tajín en la Ciudad de México, hace un pan de muerto de harina mezclada con flores de cempasúchil.
“Esta flor era abundante en la parte central de México en la época prehispánica. Actualmente, es símbolo significativo para adornar ofrendas y tumbas en la celebración a los Fieles Difuntos”, expresa Arroyo.
La chef agrega que “la flor de los 20 pétalos”, es extremadamente aromática y de sabor fuerte, además de poseer un llamativo color anaranjado. Por ello, se debe de emplear en la cocina con mucho cuidado.
“Al usar los pétalos de esta flor se tiene que retirar el pistilo, porque si lo dejamos puede amargar. Al probarlo en la preparación del pan se percibe un sabor a naranja muy persistente”, enfatiza la chef.
La chef menciona que la tradición de Día de Muertos en México es algo que todos presenciamos, ya que es una forma de recordar a nuestros seres queridos que ya no están entre nosotros.
“El pan tiene la forma del ánima que se espera, comérselo es la máxima expresión de la comunicación con lo sagrado”, puntualiza la chef.
Encuentra una receta para hacer pan de muerto aquí.
Para deleite de nuestros lectores, tenemos el placer de presentar a nuestras nuevas colaboradoras, la periodista Marichuy Garduño y la fotógrafa Bertha Herrera. Encuentren más sobre estas pioneras del periodismo gastronómico en México en su página www.conapetito.com.mx
Marichuy Garduño
Periodista gastronómica con 25 años de experiencia. Ha trabajado en los suplementos culinarios de los diarios más importantes de México como Buena Mesa, Reforma; Menú impreso y Online, de El Universal. Actualmente es editora de Pimienta, Excélsior.
A lo largo de su carrera, Marichuy ha entrevistado a varias personalidades del medio gastronómico, de la política y la literatura, entre los que destacan Enrique Olvera, Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, Alicia Gironella, Massimo Bottura, Gastón Acurio, Alex Atala, Robert Mondavi, Carlos Monsiváis, Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas, Elena Poniatowska y Jacobo Zabludovsky entre otros.
Bertha HerreraComunicóloga de profesión, fotógrafa por convicción. Chilanga de nacimiento, oaxaqueña de corazón. Adicta a capturar imágenes, a resaltar las texturas de las cosas y de las personas. A lo largo de 23 años ha retratado grandes personajes vinculados con la gastronomía, la arquitectura, la moda, el diseño, la cultura, se ha especializado en la fotografía gastronómica, tomando cursos de food styling en en el Culinary de Nueva York.
Ha trabajado en dos de los periódicos más importantes de México como son El Reforma y El Universal, y ha colaborado para revistas relacionadas con estilos de vida, como El Gourmet, Chilango, In Style, Ha sido testigo de la transformación que ha habido dentro de la gastronomía mexicana. Para su lente han posado iconos de la cocina mexicana como Carmen Ramírez Degollado, Patricia Quintana, Alicia Gironella, Giorgio D´ Angeli, Mónica Patiño y grandes cocineras tradicionales como Abigail Mendoza, Deyanira Aquino, Benedicta Alejo. También destacados chefs como Ferran Adrià, René Redzepi , Joan Roca, Massimo Botura Juan Mari Arzac , e infinidad de personajes famosos del mundo del espectáculo, la moda, la arquitectura, la cultura.
Como dice la canción “veinte años no es nada”, pero para ella han sido un cúmulo de experiencia en el ha conocido y viajado. Bertha ha hecho la fotografía para tres libros relacionados con la gastronomía. El libro acerca del chile es el que más emoción le ha causado.
Fernanda Guardado – Kie-Gol-Lanee
Fernanda Guardado, del celebrado restaurante oaxaqueño, Kie Gol Lanee en #Chicago, nos contó la fascinante historia de este restaurante que con sus delicias lleva los sabores de la sierra oaxaqueña hasta las orillas del Lago Michigan.
Daniela Varela – Ruby’s Bagels
Por si se la perdieron, les compartimos el video de nuestra plática con la joven y exitosa empresaria Daniela Varela de Ruby’s Bagels en la ciudad de Milwaukee en los Estados Unidos.Esta emprendedora de origen mexicano nos habló sobre la inspiración detrás de su food truck y sobre la magia de sus #bagels, reconocidos entre los mejores fuera de Nueva York por la revista Bon Appétit.
