UMMO: The Gift Chicago Didn’t Know it Needed
Award Winning Il Vincitore at UMMO Why UMMO is Chicago’s Italian Restaurant You Can’t Miss
You know that feeling when you come back from a place like Mexico City or Italy, and no matter where you eat, everything seems to fall just a bit short?
It’s that elusive mix of tradition, time, ingredients, and flavors—something you just can’t replicate, no matter how hard you try. To me, this is the poetry of food souvenirs: food is a piece of the land from which it comes.
Speaking of gifts, walking into UMMO after our trip to Bologna felt like unwrapping one. After a few bites I wondered, Are we actually back? That’s the power of chef Vincenzo Vottero—a culinary heavyweight with over 40 years of experience who joined the team in August. A Bologna native, he brings Michelin-star chops and a lifetime of passion to UMMO’s menu. His food isn’t just good– it’s what makes UMMO rise above the sea of Italian restaurants around Chicago.
At first glance, UMMO might seem like just another spot on a bar-lined street. By night, it even doubles as a nightclub, which might make you wonder if they’re serious about the food. But with chef Vottero at the helm, there’s no room for gimmicks, just beautifully crafted Italian cuisine.
We kicked things off with the mortadella, that kind of staple you’d see everywhere in Bologna. Sliced by Chef himself, the mortadella arrives on a fried gnocco, finished with 10-year aged balsamic and Parmigiano Reggiano.
In chef Vottero’s hands, comfort food becomes something worth talking about. You are here for the tortellini with truffle, fittingly called Il Vincitore, or “the winner”—an inventive twist on tortellini in brodo and a reminder that simplicity can be extraordinary.
Next up was the tortelli with lamb belly ragú and a hint of pesto that brings a taste of Liguria into the Bolognese fold. Vottero’s food pulls you in with its nostalgia, but each bite has something new to say.
Take the Ultravioletto Risotto, for example. It sounds modern, but it’s anchored in history, too. At its core is Pecorino di Fossa di Sogliano DOP, a cheese that goes back to the 12th century. This isn’t the kind of ingredient you casually toss into a dish. It’s buried underground to age, picking up flavors from the soil itself. Swap it out for another Pecorino, and you lose that earthy, mineral quality. This dish wasn’t available during our visit, but it’s on our list for next time.
Then came the desserts. First, a tomato mousse with basil sorbet—a pairing that evokes a summer garden, with a subtle sweetness that sneaks up on you. And then, a tiramisú unlike any other: almond cake soaked in coffee and amaretto, layered with mascarpone mousse, and drizzled with chocolate sauce.
Chef Vottero at UMMO is writing Italy’s culinary past in the present, blending tradition with his own creative edge. He understands that food is more than sustenance; it’s culture, memory, history, and place, all piled onto a plate.
And that’s what we want when we eat, isn’t it? To be transported. Chef Vincenzo Vottero does just that. It’s not just Italian food he serves—it’s Italy, brought to us like a gift from a man who knows it by heart.
UMMO:
22 W Hubbard Street, Chicago, IL
Make your reservations HERE.ROOP: ROOH’s Ode to Nostalgia
You’ve probably heard the name ROOH whispered by those in the know—the restaurant has been making waves in the city’s culinary scene for a few years now. ROOH has earned its stripes, gaining a “Plate” distinction in the 2020 Michelin Guide and a spot on many discerning foodie lists. Now, the team is taking things up a notch with their latest venture, ROOP—a tasting menu that delivers a journey through memories and places.
Meaning “beauty” in Hindi, ROOP invites patrons to dive into a thoughtful eight-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Rina Mallick, one of the brilliant minds behind ROOH, shared that many of these dishes are deeply connected to nostalgia. The menu draws inspiration from the vibrant streets of India, tapping into the flavors and cultural touchstones that have shaped countless experiences. With the collaboration of Michelin-starred Chef Mike Cornelissen (RijnZicht), ROOP offers an intriguing new take on Indian cuisine.
The menu kicks off with dishes rooted in Indian street food—a flight of pani puri followed by vada, a humble fritter that, according to Mallick, is particularly popular with students, holding a place similar to the one ramen occupies in the hearts of many Western students due to its affordability. For the third course, non-vegetarians will delight in a quick trip to Goa with a sea scallop that is light and flavorful. Caviar can be added as a supplement. We chose to let the flavors of the scallop shine on their own but are excited to try it with caviar next time.
If I had to pick one standout, it’s got to be the lamb served with papaya sorbet. I know, it sounds like something that shouldn’t work—but in the hands of Chef Mike Cornelissen, it’s pure magic. The richness of the lamb, perfectly balanced by the cool, unexpected sweetness of the sorbet, creates a combination that’s as surprising as it is delicious.
And then there’s the chicken royal. The chicken itself is sublime, but if you’re in the mood to treat yourself (and let’s be honest, you’re here, so you should), you can top it with truffle. There’s also a mushroom-based counterpart for those leaning towards a vegetarian meal, and yes, it too can be adorned with truffle.
Many of these dishes are deeply connected to memories, both personal and cultural. As you taste them, you’re transported—not just to the bustling markets of India, but to places in your own memory where flavor and nostalgia intertwine. For me, it’s impossible not to draw parallels to my own experiences with Mexican cuisine—the same addictive dance of sweet, spicy, and acidic that just works. The food in my memories translates every flavor into Spanish: take their guava mocktail, for instance. One sip, and I was instantly reminded of a margarita.
In my opinion, there is no amount of travel or research that can create that gravitational force that the dishes of a mother tongue have over one’s soul. There’s an imprint that the food of our mothers and grandmothers leave, that cannot be artificially recreated, which is why felt lucky to have Mallick as our guide, as she generously explained touches like the mandala—a celebratory and symbolic design used to plate the lamb dish—that could have easily gone unnoticed without her insight. There’s also a bit of fun theatrics– as this culinary journey comes to a close, ROOH ensures the finale is just as memorable as the beginning. The Cracked Egg, where a dessert resembling an egg is cracked on your plate, and the Last Train Station, a nostalgic nod to the chai wallahs of India serving chai in bustling train stations, yet distinctly American in its campfire-style presentation, close out a meal that has taken you from the streets of India to the heart of the U.S.
This connection to memory and place is what makes the ROOP experience so special. It’s not just about what’s on the plate—it’s about where those flavors take you. And the best part? The whole experience is incredibly accessible at just $95 for the tasting menu, with wine pairings for $55.
Alongside this new tasting initiative, ROOH will also introduce a refreshed a la carte menu by Executive Chef Rohit Thaledi, featuring new dishes such as Saag Paneer Kofta, Goan Crab Cakes with Xec Xec Sauce, and Gulab Jamun Cheesecake.
ROOP is available Sunday to Wednesday. Make your reservation on OpenTable.
Taco Omakase: Where Street Food Meets Chef’s Table
Taco de Suadero at Cariño Chicago. Photo: Brenda Storch Omakase, that Japanese tradition which essentially means ‘I’m in your hands,’ feels like getting the VIP nod in a place where everybody knows your name—but here, it’s the chef who locks eyes with you and without a word, promises, ‘I’ve got this.’
Your job? Simply sit back, relax, and let the chef’s choice sweep you off your feet. Now, picture the omakase approach with a twist: taco omakase is a brilliant mash-up where the chef’s table meets the street food scene, each taco a surprise waiting to unravel.
I recently had the chance to dive into this at Cariño in Chicago (check out my article on Eater Chicago), where you can snag one of just seven coveted spots at the counter. Suddenly, you’re in the front row for Chef Norman Fenton’s culinary concert. The setlist? A lineup that swings between 8 and 12 courses, each act more thrilling than the last, all set to the rhythm of Mexico’s underground beats.
Masa shines as the headliner, transforming into an array of show-stopping numbers that each carry a whisper of tradition with a dash of bold. From a Wagyu beef taco with a salsa that will leave you downright speechless to a menu as unpredictable as it is thrilling, the whole experience is a roller coaster ride of comfort, excitement, and outright joy. Chef Fenton’s love affair with Mexican cuisine and overall culture is palpable, making every visit to Cariño (a term for affection in Spanish) not just a meal but an unforgettable journey of discovery and a celebration of cariño at every turn.
The offering is a great deal at $125 per person, which includes 2 cocktails and tip.
Taste the Magic: A Whimsical Afternoon at the Willy Wonka-Inspired Chocolate Factory Tea
You’ve just double-dipped into the Wonka universe, first with Gene Wilder’s timeless charm, then with Timothée Chalamet’s fresh take. Now, you’re primed and ready because what’s next is an homage to these cinematic delights. A trip into a world where the magic of Willy Wonka comes alive on your plate.In their rendition of the Chocolate Factory Afternoon Tea, Executive Chef Damion Henry and Executive Pastry Chef Walleska Cianfanelli crank the afternoon tea dial to an enchantment level. And the teas—well, walking into the Pavilion and not indulging in the Mad Hatter’s tea party blend or the chocolate peppermint truffle would be a miss. Sure, the classics hold their ground, but they will be there, and the unique concoctions will disappear like magic, and they are certainly worth a try.We opted for the champagne experience, one of our favorite parts, as it was surprisingly fun and thoughtful. There we were, pairing and playing with tiny, flavorful pearls that echoed caviar yet burst with sweetness. Each unique flavor teased out a new note from the champagne.Then come the bites. The desserts leaped out with unexpected names that reminded us of some of the movies’ scenes and characters: “Spotted Giraffe” with its rich layers of caramel ganache and exotic Tonka vanilla bean, the “Silver Cloud” that whisks you away on a cloud of coconut mousse and zesty yuzu cream.Amidst these sweet inventions, the traditional touch of scones remains, bringing a comforting familiarity. And, of course, these treats, along with the scones, are presented creatively and delivered in a tower, layering the experience with an elegant touch.Then there’s the clever reference to that three-course meal gum—except here, there’s no fantastical risk, just delicious tomato soup, roast beef carpaccio, and blueberry pie, followed by an invitation to visit the chocolate fountain, complete with marshmallows, strawberries, and pound cake.Whether you’re a lifelong fan of the films, a lover of afternoon teas, or someone searching for a unique dining
experience, this is your call to action. The Chocolate Factory Afternoon Tea will be available through May 26.
The option with sparkling wine is $130, and the one with champagne is $150. Children pay $60. Reservations are available on Tock.Rosca de Reyes – A Slice of Gospel and Tradition #Recipe
Photo Credit: “El Deleite”. Often used as evangelizing tools, celebrations in Mexico feature elements that are charged with symbolism. Take the piñata, for example, used as an allegory of sin (colorful and appealing on the outside, yet hollow and empty on the inside). Still today, during parties, people are blindfolded (a nod to faith being blind) when facing the piñata, which will yield fruits once fought and defeated.
The Rosca de Reyes (cake of kings) is no exception. Even as I type, kids who have been taught to expect the arrival of the three kings or magi, during Epiphany have already gone to bed with the hopes of finding gifts by their shoes when they awake. This festivity marks the culmination of the “12 Days of Christmas”.
Rosca de Reyes is shaped and decorated as if it were a crown. Inside, little figurines representing baby Jesus while in hiding from Herod can be found. Whomever discovers the figurine it their slice of rosca gets to share their good fortune- they will buy tamales for the group on February 2nd, to celebrate the presentation of Christ at the temple.
Without even knowing it, tradition is celebrated and perpetuated in a delicious slice that is typically enjoyed with a cup of hot chocolate.
Yanet Hernández Tabiel, owner of “El Deleite”, a bakery in Mexico City, shared her popular recipe with La Vitamina T readers.
Ingredients:
- 1 tbsp of yeast
- 5 1/2 cups of flour
- 1/2 cup of sugar
- 1 tbsp of vanilla extract
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup of milk
- 3 eggs
- 3 egg yolks
- 3/4 cup of butter
- 1 1/2 cups of crystallized fruit
- 1/2 cup of warm water
- 5 plastic “muñequitos de rosca” (plastic rosca dolls). These can be substituted with large beans.
For the butter crumble:
- 1 cup of butter
- 1 cup of sugar
- 1 egg
- 1 tbsp vanilla extract
Instructions:
- Combine the yeast with one of the tablespoons of flour and the warm water. Let rest for 1o mins. or until it’s foamy
- Combine the remaining flour with the sugar, vanilla extract, salt and milk in a mixing bowl. Mix until incorporated. Add the eggs and the yolks.
- Continue mixing until smooth. Add the yeast and mix until you have a smooth, and flexible ball.
- Add the butter and continue mixing until fully incorporated.
- Add the mix in a bowl and cover it with a damp cloth. Keep at room temperature until it doubles in volume.
- Make a dimple with your finger and knead.
- Extend the dough into a rectangular shape, add the crystallized fruit and the plastic dolls. Twirl to form a crown shape.
Crumble and Decoration
- Mix the butter with the sugar, eggs and the vanilla extract
- Decorate the rosca with strips of this mix.
- Glaze your rosca with the eggwash and decorate it with crystallized fruits
- Bake for an hour at 375 degrees or until golden brown
Enjoy!
Casa Humilde Cervecería: El Nuevo Sabor de Una Antigua Tradición
Javier y José López de la cervecería Casa Humilde ¿Cerveza de tunas? ¿Michelada de pepino?¡Sí!La semana pasada en “Sazón Razón y Corazón”, tuvimos como invitados a los hermanos Javier y José López de Casa Humilde Cervecería. Estos jóvenes y creativos empresarios le han dado un toque mexicano a la tradición cervecera de #Chicago.¡Su historia es fascinante!Escucha la entrevista haciendo click en la flecha.Foto: Casa Humilde5 Tips de 5 Papás para la Parrillada Perfecta #DíadelPadre
Hasta aquí en las latitudes más septentrionales, desafiando el clima que no se decide completamente a cambiar de estación, las parrillas ya están a todo lo que dan. Para ayudarlos a prepararse para el Día del Padre, hemos consultado con varios papás expertos en parrilladas. Aquí les compartimos cinco de los tips que más nos gustaron para que usted los ponga en práctica.
Tip 1. Los mejores cortes de carne para asar son los cortes marmoleados con o sin hueso. Es decir, aquellos en los que la grasa se encuentra distribuida en la carne. Fíjese que este sea el caso cuando la compre, o pídale a su carnicero que le ayude. Uno de nuestros papás, carnicero por más de 60 años, nos recomienda que asemos cortes como el rib eye, el porterhouse y el T-bone. Ahora que si la fiesta va a estar concurrida y necesita estrechar el presupuesto, pida tri-tip, un corte muy famoso en California. Este corte es bueno, bonito y barato. Sí va a asar este tipo de carne, aunque parezca abundante, no lo corte hasta que esté listo para servirse.
Tip 2. Los cortes más delgados quedan menos suaves al asar. Considere marinarlos antes de ponerlos a la parrilla. Esto aplica también para el pollo.
Tip 3. Si tiene una parrilla de carbón, cree dos áreas con dos intensidades diferentes. Entre más alta la pila de carbón, más intenso el fuego y más fácil será quemar la comida. Puede usar el área de mayor intensidad para sellar la carne. Gire la carne 45 grados para hacerle marcas en a parrilla. Cocine la carne a término en el área de menor intensidad.
Tip 4. Espere a asar su comida hasta que el carbón esté blanco. Si comienza a cocinar antes de que el fuego alcance su mayor intensidad, su comida sabrá a combustible.
Tip 5. Si cocina su carne en brochetas, considere alternarla con fruta como piña o manzanas. Las mejores manzanas para asar son las Granny Smith por su sabor y textura. Otra idea que nos encantó es la de poner tomates cherry al final de sus brochetas. Cuando la piel del tomate empieza a pelarse, es un buen indicador de que la carne está lista.
Pasa a visitar nuestra tienda en línea si quieres cocinar con una sal mexicana deliciosa la Sal de San Felipe
¡Feliz Día del Padre!
Mexico’s Day of the Mule: Hybrid Animals, Hybrid Celebrations:
Photo credit: Lissette Storch – Mexico City, Mexico If you find yourself in Mexico during the months of May or June, and you see mules made out of dried corn leaves being sold everywhere, you might wonder if this handcraft is part of the local charm. It is, but only seasonally. This hybrid mammal appears just in time for the Catholic celebration of Corpus Christi or Día de la Mula (Mule’s Day), and sometimes you may find them stuffed with candy.
Some attribute the association of mules with this festivity to the fact that in the 1500s, the faithful went to church carrying the best of their harvest on their mules to give thanks. This is a nod to pre-Hispanic rituals, in which gratefulness was shown to several deities through offerings. Even today, more than 500 years later, it is easy to see pre-columbian traditions seeping through modern-day celebrations.
Others explain this whimsical tradition with legends featuring mules kneeling down in reverence. My favorite one is the story of a man who, while wondering if he should dedicate himself to a life of priesthood, asks God for a sign. When he went to church on a Corpus Christi Thursday, he found himself in the midst of a crowd of men and mules. The man said to himself that if God were present, even the mules would kneel down. The story, of course, tells that a mule did.
Curiously, the word “mule” is also used it to refer to someone who is advantageous. If someone wishes you un ‘Feliz Día de las Mulas’ it could be either friendly ribbing, or time to wonder…
Published on May 15, 2015.
La Cocina Rebelde de Sor Juana #SRYC
Como parte de nuestro ciclo dedicado a la #mujer en “Sazón, Razón y Corazón”, les compartimos nuestra charla con la gastrónoma internacional, la chef Victoria del Ángel. Del Ángel nos habló sobre la erudita mexicana, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz, quien retó el privilegio masculino, y cuyo acervo fue reconocido por la Unesco en 2019 como “Memoria del Mundo: patrimonio impreso de los siglos XVII al XXI.”
Además de su extraordinaria contribución literaria, Sor Juana era una excelente cocinera. En su recetario, ella nos regala una joya de la cocina conventual mexicana, así como una ventana a su intelecto, su creatividad, y su cocina de resistencia y desafío.
Fotos: Chef Victoria del Ángel. Óleo de Jorge Sánchez
First published in March 15, 2019
Pair your “Pavo” like a Pro – Cava Córdova’s Head Winemaker Shows you How
Winemaker Fernando Farías Córdova Photo: Cava Córdova GSM From the Series “World Class: Mexican Wine and the Hands who Make it”
Update: Cava Córdova has since launched. Find more about them on their website.
Mexican entrepreneur and winemaker Fernando Farías Córdova followed his love for winemaking all the way from his native Jalisco to Valle de Guadalupe. Impressively, although barely thirty, this young wine and tea sommelier is now making a living out of his passion, and is preparing to release his own wine label.
Sleeping in a cellar awaiting for its 2015 debut, is Cava Córdova GSM. Originally from the southern Rhône Valley, here, this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes is being nurtured to become a wine that is both elegant and approachable.
It is impossible to resist asking an expert how to pair your food. Just in time for the Thanksgiving meal, Farías Córdova gives us tips for every palate:
White
Look for wines with low acidity and high floral or fruit notes to highlight the flavor of cranberry sauce, such as wines made with Viognier, or Riesling grapes. A Moscato is a great option as long as it is not too sweet; and the butter notes of an oak-aged California Chardonnay would complement rich dishes very well.Rosée
Dry, medium-bodied and very fruity wines will offer a refreshing contrast to pair elaborate dishes. Look for wines made with Grenache, Syrah or Carignan grapes
Red
Red wine and turkey? Absolutely. Long gone are the times where poultry was usually only accompanied with white wine. Serve young red wines with notes of red fruit, jam and spices that intensify the flavors of our dishes. Look for Merlot, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Malbec or Syrah.Sparkling
For a night of celebration, chose to pair your pecan pie with a Proseco Brut. Sparkling wines are also a great complement to spicy foods (in case mole or tamales verdes find their way to your table) and, why not, go ahead and pop that bottle of champagne that you were saving for a special occasion. This is one of them.How do you know what wine is best for you? It is the one you like… and hopefully, it is wine from Valle de Guadalupe.
¡Salud!Stay tuned for an update on the 2015 release of Cava Córdova GSM.
Prior articles in the series:
< AlXimia: The Art and Science of Extraordinary Wine
<¡´Biba´México! The Zeal Behind Mexico´s Pasión Biba
< World Class: Mexican Wine and the Hands who Make it (Introduction to a Series)
Originally published on 11-25-14
