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Istmo Chicago – A Culinary Bridge to Oaxaca’s Heart
There’s a lot of buzz around Istmo, the new Oaxacan restaurant in Lakeview, and underneath it all, there’s real substance. Istmo bridges traditional Mexican cuisine with a refined and elevated approach, staying true to its roots while embracing a fresh vision.
The southeastern Mexican state of Oaxaca is known for its vibrant culinary traditions, incredible cuisine, and the heartwarming hospitality of its people. The name “Istmo” refers to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, one of Oaxaca’s seven regions. The food is diverse, unique, and equally delicious.
Right now, Istmo is serving lunch and brunch, and it plans to roll out dinner service soon. And believe me, you’ll want to be first in line when they do.
I couldn’t resist the enchiladas, as I’m a sucker for salsa verde, but the enfrijoladas, a dish from the region similar to enchiladas but drenched in a rich bean sauce, also looked tantalizing.
The enchiladas are enveloped in a thick, well-balanced sauce that’s rich and flavorful. While enchiladas are available all over Mexico, chef Carlos López Muñoz (Mexique, Leña Brava) brings this incredible salsa to life with his mother´s recipe, making it a truly special experience. The sauce alone is worth the visit—trust me on this one. Typically, I go for chicken enchiladas, but at Istmo, you can choose from cheese, chorizo, and steak.
We also sampled the huevos divorciados (divorced eggs) served with green and red salsa and enjoyed their hibiscus spritzer, a take on agua de jamaica. Playing on the fragrant cinnamon notes of café de olla and nodding to the Southeast Asian-Mexican fusion trend, Istmo also offers a Mexican chocolate chai.
One dish that truly stands out in my memory is their take on the traditional corn-based jello nicuatole, which I previously could only find at Kie-Go-La Nee, which focuses on food from the Sierra region. At Itsmo, the dish takes on a texture more like crème brûlée, offering a delightful twist on a classic. The plate is decorated with a buñuelo de viento, adding crunch to the creamy dessert. To many, this might only be a crispy and airy delight, but to me, it was a flashback to cherished moments and places.
Service was a bit slow when we published this article, but I assume it will get better as the kinks are worked out. Expect to wait for your food a bit. It will be worth it!
If you’re looking to add some excitement to your lunch or brunch routine, Istmo is the place to be. And keep an eye out for their dinner service—I’m betting it will be nothing short of spectacular.
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Discover Nemi: Where Tradition Meets Modern Snacking
When Regina Trillo arrived in Chicago, she was struck by how Mexican-inspired products and packaging often presented a cartoonish version of Mexican culture and flavors. The imagery lacked depth and accuracy, and she wanted to convey to the world that Mexico is much more than a cliché. Out of this desire, in 2019, Nemi was born. This delicious snack is a testament to Trillo’s commitment to bringing Mexican flavors to the forefront while challenging stereotypes.
At the heart of Nemi is nopal, the prickly pear cactus, a nutritious ingredient often found in Mexican cuisine. Mexicans often identify with this resilient cacti, as it thrives at home and far beyond, even in the most difficult conditions.
I love anything with lime and salt, and I have a thing for a popular Mexican corn snack that packs a punch with its bold flavors. Sadly, my adored snacks are also a calorie bomb loaded with artificial ingredients, unhealthy fats, and enough sodium to make any doctor raise an eyebrow. Finding it in the US is no easy feat, and I am often indulged by visitors who come bearing it as a gift. Imagine my excitement when I stumbled upon Nemi right here in my backyard! Six grams of protein? Whaaaaat?!
Trillo’s brilliance lies in transforming this ubiquitous ingredient into a modern snack that bridges Mexican traditions with current trends—it is health-conscious, kind to the environment, and downright addictive.
Adding to her long list of awards, Nemi’s creator has recently been selected as one of the eight winners in the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition. This initiative is designed to support emerging brands and give them a platform to grow. Nemi’s inclusion is a testament to Trillo’s hard work, creativity, and dedication to bringing Mexican flavors to the mainstream.
“I’m honored to be one of the eight businesses selected to join the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition,” said Trillo. “The Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition is a five-month, mentor-guided program to support emerging food and beverage businesses inspired by Hispanic flavors and culture.”
Reflecting on her journey as an entrepreneur, Trillo shared: “My message is that at the beginning there is fear and uncertainty… and the perfect time to start is usually today!”
Nemi comes in different flavors: Smoky Chipotle, Pickled Jalapeño, Chile Turmeric, Mexican Lime, and Churro. Find Nemi at your favorite local markets, health food stores, and specialty shops across the city, or order online via their website.
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#PescaConFuturo Invita a Celebrar el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible con el Consumo de Pescados y Mariscos Mexicanos
Cada 18 de junio se celebra el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible, una oportunidad para reconocer la labor de los productores del campo, mar y aguas interiores mexicanas e incluir en nuestro menú recetas preparadas con alimentos que dan sabor a nuestras cocinas y mesas. En esta fecha, COMEPESCA a través del movimiento #PescaConFuturo, hace un llamado para un consumo responsable de los pescados y mariscos sostenibles mexicanos.
En 2016, la Asamblea General de las Naciones Unidas declaró el 18 de junio como el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible para reconocer la diversidad natural y cultural del mundo y reafirmar que todas las civilizaciones pueden contribuir en el desarrollo sostenible de sus comunidades.
El movimiento #PescaConFuturo invita a conocer el trabajo de los productores, el origen de nuestros alimentos y la variedad de pescados y mariscos que genera la pesca y acuacultura sostenible mexicana, así como hacer un uso eficiente de los recursos y la conservación del medio ambiente.
En este sentido, Ana María Arroyo, chef del restaurante El Tajín y embajadora gastronómica de #PescaConFuturo ratifica la importancia de trabajar en conjunto con los productores y conocer su historia y el origen de los vegetales, verduras, hierbas, pescados y mariscos que llegan a nuestra cocina. “La gastronomía sostenible tiene en cuenta el origen de los ingredientes, cómo se cultivan, cómo se cosechan, cómo llegan a nuestros mercados y cocinas y cómo los transformamos en un platillo que se convierte en el centro de nuestra mesa”.
La Gastronomía Sostenible promueve hábitos, consumo y técnicas de cocina responsables y respetuosas con el medio ambiente, respetar las temporadas de cada alimento; la pesca y la acuacultura ofrece diversas variedades, entre ellas, huachinango, trucha, tilapia, pulpo, camarón, jurel, atún y jaiba.
Para celebrar el Día de la Gastronomía Sostenible, la chef Ana María Arroyo propone preparar “Huachinango la veracruzana”, un platillo tradicional de Veracruz que integra productos del campo y mar mexicanos; se necesitan filetes de huauchinango, jitomate, cebolla, ajo, papas, aceitunas, alcaparras y chiles güeros; primero se condimentan los filetes con sal; los jitomates, papas y cebolla se cortan en cubos, por separado se fríen con un poco de aceite de oliva para luego integrar uno a uno los ingredientes y al final los filetes, dejar hervir por diez minutos e integrar las aceitunas, las alcaparras y los chiles güeros. Servir con arroz blanco y plátano macho frito.
#PescaConFuturo impulsa el consumo responsable de pescados y mariscos sustentables e informa sobre la variedad de especies certificadas, proyectos de mejora pesquera, recomendaciones de compra, así como los periodos de veda.
Vínculo: Azucena Suárez -
An Epic Tale of Culinary Fusion: Mirra at the Coach House
Mirra1742 W. Division Street
Chicago, IL 60622Just beyond the bustling vibe of Lilac Tiger in Uptown, lies a cozy nook known as the Coach House—a place that feels like stumbling into a secret. Here, James Beard Award nominee chef Zubair Mohajir blurs the lines between #Indian and #Mexican cuisines, spinning a tale as rich and intricate as the story of Mirra, or Caterina de San Juan, the muse behind the Pueblan traditions of the China Poblana. This fascinating tale threads everything together, making each dish a journey that’s as much about the plates as it is about the stories that inspired them.Once we found the entrance, we were promptly escorted to the counter. It is here, among treasures that narrate tales of culinary conquests and personal journeys, that each meal is crafted, transforming the dining experience into something resembling a private conversation. The eatery’s counter isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a place where every dish comes with a backstory.The 5-course journey began with a lentil puff that resembles chicharrón. Rich, crunchy, and a bit cheeky, this is an excellent accompaniment to an incredible scallop ceviche. Next up, we’ve got a sope served with cilantro and spinach chutney, all while sporting a tiger prawn like a crown. Then there’s the roti quesadilla, where the plot thickens. It’s like a handshake between distant lands, proving that when it comes to food, borders are merely lines on a map.
And just when you think it can’t get any better, the lamb barbacoa biryani comes in, a respectful nod to a regional style of barbacoa the Chef encountered during one of his trips to Mexico.Wrapping up the feast, there’s dessert and chai—the kind that tastes like it’s been brewed with a dash of love, straight from chef Mohajir’s grandmother’s kitchen.At $135, plus $60 more if you’re diving into the pairings, this is more than a meal; it’s an invitation to join chef Mohajir on a trip that’s as much about the stories behind the dishes as it is about the flavors. And let me tell you, it’s an invitation worth accepting.The menus change periodically, so there is always fun to discover.Reservations available through Tock.
Scallop ceviche with lentil puff. 
Roti quesadilla 
Lamb biryani 
Dessert! Chai tea with cake. 
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Taco Omakase: Where Street Food Meets Chef’s Table
Taco de Suadero at Cariño Chicago. Photo: Brenda Storch Omakase, that Japanese tradition which essentially means ‘I’m in your hands,’ feels like getting the VIP nod in a place where everybody knows your name—but here, it’s the chef who locks eyes with you and without a word, promises, ‘I’ve got this.’
Your job? Simply sit back, relax, and let the chef’s choice sweep you off your feet. Now, picture the omakase approach with a twist: taco omakase is a brilliant mash-up where the chef’s table meets the street food scene, each taco a surprise waiting to unravel.
I recently had the chance to dive into this at Cariño in Chicago (check out my article on Eater Chicago), where you can snag one of just seven coveted spots at the counter. Suddenly, you’re in the front row for Chef Norman Fenton’s culinary concert. The setlist? A lineup that swings between 8 and 12 courses, each act more thrilling than the last, all set to the rhythm of Mexico’s underground beats.
Masa shines as the headliner, transforming into an array of show-stopping numbers that each carry a whisper of tradition with a dash of bold. From a Wagyu beef taco with a salsa that will leave you downright speechless to a menu as unpredictable as it is thrilling, the whole experience is a roller coaster ride of comfort, excitement, and outright joy. Chef Fenton’s love affair with Mexican cuisine and overall culture is palpable, making every visit to Cariño (a term for affection in Spanish) not just a meal but an unforgettable journey of discovery and a celebration of cariño at every turn.
The offering is a great deal at $125 per person, which includes 2 cocktails and tip.
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Taste the Magic: A Whimsical Afternoon at the Willy Wonka-Inspired Chocolate Factory Tea
You’ve just double-dipped into the Wonka universe, first with Gene Wilder’s timeless charm, then with Timothée Chalamet’s fresh take. Now, you’re primed and ready because what’s next is an homage to these cinematic delights. A trip into a world where the magic of Willy Wonka comes alive on your plate.In their rendition of the Chocolate Factory Afternoon Tea, Executive Chef Damion Henry and Executive Pastry Chef Walleska Cianfanelli crank the afternoon tea dial to an enchantment level. And the teas—well, walking into the Pavilion and not indulging in the Mad Hatter’s tea party blend or the chocolate peppermint truffle would be a miss. Sure, the classics hold their ground, but they will be there, and the unique concoctions will disappear like magic, and they are certainly worth a try.We opted for the champagne experience, one of our favorite parts, as it was surprisingly fun and thoughtful. There we were, pairing and playing with tiny, flavorful pearls that echoed caviar yet burst with sweetness. Each unique flavor teased out a new note from the champagne.Then come the bites. The desserts leaped out with unexpected names that reminded us of some of the movies’ scenes and characters: “Spotted Giraffe” with its rich layers of caramel ganache and exotic Tonka vanilla bean, the “Silver Cloud” that whisks you away on a cloud of coconut mousse and zesty yuzu cream.Amidst these sweet inventions, the traditional touch of scones remains, bringing a comforting familiarity. And, of course, these treats, along with the scones, are presented creatively and delivered in a tower, layering the experience with an elegant touch.Then there’s the clever reference to that three-course meal gum—except here, there’s no fantastical risk, just delicious tomato soup, roast beef carpaccio, and blueberry pie, followed by an invitation to visit the chocolate fountain, complete with marshmallows, strawberries, and pound cake.Whether you’re a lifelong fan of the films, a lover of afternoon teas, or someone searching for a unique dining
experience, this is your call to action. The Chocolate Factory Afternoon Tea will be available through May 26.
The option with sparkling wine is $130, and the one with champagne is $150. Children pay $60. Reservations are available on Tock. -
Shared Plates, Shared Stories: A Night at Compartir – Barcelona
Landing at Compartir, straight from the surreal playground of Parc Güell, felt like jumping from one Barcelona dream scene to another. There we were, hearts still thumping to Gaudí’s whimsical beats, when I realized I’d mixed up our reservation dates. Fate, it seemed, had our backs.
I wish I could claim this was my idea. The truth is, we landed at Compartir while chasing a table at Disfrutar, the culinary heavyweight that clinched the second spot on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023. Compartir is Disfrutar’s sister and the third restaurant of chefs Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro, and Eduard Xatruch. The group spent two decades in the trenches of El Bulli, Ferran Adrià’s legendary lab of gastronomy, where the impossible was made possible on a plate. Given the team’s credentials, we knew we were in for a treat, and the meal did not disappoint.
The service is warm and attentive, and the menu shows its traditional soul, ingeniously intertwined with the avant-garde techniques the trio is famed for. Cocktails are fantastic!
With its soulful decor and mind-bending menu, Compartir captures the very spirit of Barcelona—a city that’s all about art, warmth, and, with its food, above all, sharing.
Lamb shoulder in confit 
Mushroom, sausage and ham paella 
Pickled Sardines Marinated in Purple Carrot and Coconut 
Cod fritters with honey foam and Ibérico ham with tuna croquettes 
Liquid chocolate-filled chocolates with boysenberry sorbet -
Find Culinary Gold at Barcelona’s Maleducat
We waltzed into Maleducat in #Barcelona without a reservation – talk about rolling the dice. Fortunately, luck was on our side, and we scored one of the few tables at this local favorite. The service? Spot-on. It’s like they’ve mastered the art of making you feel right at home, even when you’re miles away from it.
@maleducat is a champion of culinary insurrection, blending and bending grandma’s recipe with a menu that’s a wild ride of tapas and heartier plates meant to be shared. While we tried dishes made with ingredients that we never imagined seeing together on a plate, like their beef tendon and fish, we mostly stuck to a few of the staples (croquetas de jamón, paletilla ibérica, to name a few) in the spirit of continuing to calibrate our baseline. This place stuck in my memory as the best jamón de bellota we had during our trip. Hailing from the Rolls-Royce of pork—the Pata Negra breed— these pigs are fed a diet of acorns, endowing the meat with a mind-blowing texture and flavor.
Maleducat is more than just a name; it’s an entire experience that invites you to indulge in the joy of breaking bread with a merry band of locals and international gourmands alike. Because, well, this is Barcelona, where every meal is a chance to make new friends and taste the world.
If you’re in town, take a chance like we did – it might just be your best bet of the night.
Maleducat – San AntoniCarrer de Manso, 54, Barcelona, 08015Spain -
From Ocean to Table: #PescaConFuturo ‘s Mission for Sustainable Seafood in Mexico
#Pesca con Futuro” is making waves in Mexico by promoting the sustainable use of local fish and seafood. This initiative has been recognized with a nomination for the “Best Producer or Promoter of Sustainable Products” at the Food and Travel Reader Awards 2023.
Led by Citlalli Gómez Lepe, #PescaConFuturo focuses on three main objectives: educating fishermen about sustainable practices, connecting producers with businesses to advocate for sustainability, and informing consumers about eco-friendly seafood options. The movement has united over 130 chefs, academics, and researchers, all dedicated to demonstrating how consuming he right seafood can positively impact our oceans.
#PescaConFuturo also provides resources, including a map and a guide to sustainable seafood in Mexico, along with a list of producers, distributors, and restaurateurs available at www.pescaconfuturo.com.
The “Best Producer or Promoter of Sustainable Products” category aims to recognize those in the industry committed to environmental stewardship while producing, distributing, or serving high-quality products.
Voting for the Food and Travel Reader Awards 2023 is open at https://foodandtravel.mx/reader-awards/ and concludes tomorrow, Friday, February 9. Participants simply need to complete a form to vote for their favorites across 28 categories. The winners will be announced on February 22 after a thorough tally.
Follow Pesca con Futuro on Instagram at @PescaConFuturo.
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From Rosca to Tamales: Mexico’s Candlemas Feast
In Mexico, the air is thick with the steam and aroma of tamales on the eve of February 2nd. But the story begins a few weeks earlier around the table with rosca de reyes, a sweet, circular, firm bread with sugar and dried fruits, representing the crown of the Magi who traveled to meet baby Jesus. The bread with a hidden plastic or porcelain figurine is a nod to the Biblical story of Mary and Joseph’s efforts to go into hiding to shield their newborn from Herod’s wrath.
The lucky finder of the figurine in their rosca de reyes slice, which everyone cuts for themselves, will be the padrino or host of the upcoming feast, which entails tamales for everyone present. Rosca de reyes sets the stage for a tradition that’s as much about a tool to teach a religious story as it is about community and pastry.
Tamales, the headliners of the Día de la Candelaria feast, or Candlemas, are a culinary odyssey in themselves. Crafted from corn masa that’s been through the transformative nixtamalization process, these bundles of joy are a testament to the depth and breadth of traditional Mexican cuisine. Usually wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves, depending on the region, and steamed to perfection, each tamal is a revelation, embodying the collision of indigenous techniques, Spanish influence, and local ingredients. But to merely describe their physical preparation is to ignore the mysticism that runs through the kitchen; it’s believed that the energy you bring to the tamal-making process, whether it be through dance, prayer, or even the rhythm of music, influences the outcome, turning a simple meal into a communal rite.
Día de la Candelaria aligns with the day Jesus was presented at the temple and coincides with the first day of the Aztec calendar. Tamales were the food of choice for the feast as many pre-Hispanic gods received corn offerings, as it was believed that men were made out of corn.
The feast is more than a religious observance—it’s a collective activity taking place in kitchens and dining rooms across Mexico and beyond. Sharing tamales during Día de La Candelaria speaks to the enduring power of shared meals to bring people together across time and space. The tradition continues to weave the past into the present, inviting many generations to the table to partake in a rich, unfolding story that continues to be written.
