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Flock to the Shepherd -The Charismatic Taco al Pastor #NationalTacoDay
Photo courtesy of: El Califa, Mexico City 
RUTA MEXICANA
Whenever I visit Mexico, there is an additional ‘layover’ between the airport and my parents’ home in a suburb of Mexico City. Stopping for tacos al pastor or ‘shepherd-style’ tacos has become somewhat of an unspoken ritual. Luckily, no matter the time or day of the year, my sister is always prepared with a roster of recommendations that she has carefully curated in my absence. Count on her to rattle off an impressive selection that includes taquerías open on Christmas Day.
Despite the fact that taco stands abound, not all tacos are made equal. Ask any local. Finding the perfect taquería is almost a rite of passage for defeños*, one that speaks to the way we connect with our city and beyond- a Mexican’s relationship with their pastor is emotional… personal.
Photo courtesy of: El Califa. Mexico City, Mexico When Enrico came with me to Mexico for the first time, he joined me in our recently established ritual. We visited a corner taquería where my family knew Chucho*, the taquero. Enrico was a little nervous as he eyed the cilantro and the onion piling over the tender marinated pork meat and pineapple. As a tourist who visits Mexico for the first time, Enrico asked me if the food was safe to eat. Trying to leverage whatever I could think of to reassure him, I said, “You will be fine. The taquero’s name is Jesus!”
He was an instant convert.
I have yet to find a perfect spot in Chicago to have tacos al pastor. Recently, I was crushed to find that some places serve them with cubed meat. I am on a mission to find a place I can recommend!
In the meantime, if you have the good fortune to be in Mexico City, you must check out El Califa. Aside from their outstanding customer service, they are famous for the way they serve the meat and for their freshly-made tortillas.
You will see why I think that this taco is king.
* Defeño is a Citizen of Mexico City (D.F.)
**In Mexico, Chucho is short for Jesús, which is a fairly common name
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Para este Día de la Candelaria, Tamales de Mango del Chef Paco
Tamales con queso de cabra, chipotle y salsa de mango como solo en New Rebozo. Foto: Brenda Storch Ya se acerca el Día de la Candelaria, y para ponerle un toque original a la tamaliza, les traemos esta receta del Chef Paco, dueño del conocido restaurante New Rebozo, en Chicago.
El Chef Paco generosamente nos compartió esta receta para hacer estos deliciosos tamales de queso de cabra y chipotle con salsa de mango. ¡Que los disfruten!
Masa
- 1 kilo de masa blanca de maíz para tamal
- 1 1/2 tazas de caldo pollo o agua
- 1 taza de aceite de olivo
- 1 cucharada de sal
- 150 gr. de queso de cabra
- 1 cucharadita de salsa de chile chipotle
- 35 rectángulos de hoja de tamal de unos 18 x 15 cm.
Salsa
- 2 mangos, pelados y cortados en cubitos
- 1 chile jalapeño
- 1/2 cebolla picada
- 1/3 pimiento rojo finamente picado
- 1/3 pimiento amarillo finamente picado
- 1/2 manojo de cilantro cortado en pedazos pequeños
- Sal y pimienta al gusto
Pon lo ingredientes en un recipiente hondo y mézclalos hasta que estén bien incorporados.
Preparación:
- Mezcla la masa en el caldo hasta que quede incorporado todo. Prueba la sazón.
- Con una cuchara sopera, pon en el centro de la hoja la masa, el queso de cabra y el chile chipotle.
- Envuélvelo como un burrito de 5 x 7 centímetros. Salen como 36 tamalitos.
- Prepara la vaporera con agua, pon los tamales y tápala.
- Pón los tamales a cocer con flama alta. Una vez que empiece a salir el vapor, baja la flama a fuego medio y deja cocinar durante alrededor de 50 minutos.
- Déja reposar los tamales hasta servirlos con la salsa.
Oh My God!
Receta publicada con el permiso del autor.
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Carnitas Uruapan – The Best of Michoacán in Pilsen
Pride and Joy: Inocencio and Marcos Carbajal personally host patrons at their famous Pilsen restaurant Carnitas Uruapan. Inocencio Carbajal becomes emotional as he shares a very personal story. In the late 70s, as a recent transplant from Uruapan, Michoacán, he had to make the decision to let go of his most precious possession- a medal of the Virgin of Guadalupe. “I asked Her to bless my choice,” says Inocencio, his eyes tearing up. “We bought our first piece of equipment with that money.”
Fast-forward four decades later, and Inocencio’s hardship has paid off. As we arrived at the Pilsen eatery, a long line of patrons had already assembled. Marcos Carbajal, Inocencio’s son, kindly invited us to tour the kitchen while we found a spot to talk.
The state of Michoacán in southwestern Mexico, is famous for its carnitas, one of Mexico’s favorite folk dishes. Usually cooked in large copper containers brought in from a specific neighboring town, it is not uncommon to find this treat also being prepared in large stainless steel pots. “In many villages, eating carnitas is a Sunday morning ritual,” said Marcos, who periodically visits family in Uruapan, his father’s birthplace. “People know to arrive early, as typically only one pig is prepared, and they gather to eat after church. Many of our customers still follow this custom, but we cook a fresh batch every two hours.”
Although he kept in his heart the desire to go back to Michoacán at some point, Inocencio’s family and his growing business kept him in Pilsen. “All of a sudden, Marcos was ready to go to college, and I was happy that he had the opportunity,” said Inocencio. For Marcos, the word “pigskin” is not merely a seasonal one- with a degree in Economics from the University of Michigan, and thinking of helping his dad, Marcos left his corporate job to work in the restaurant full time, while also pursuing a Master’s Degree in Entrepreneurship from Northwestern University.
Although Inocencio has not returned to Uruapan, he has brought Uruapan to Chicago with him. The path he chose was not easy but, he says smiling, “I would do it all over again”.
His eatery’s menu is perfectly simple, with many well-achieved crowd pleasers. From mouthwatering pork carnitas, to menudo, chicharrón en salsa de tomate ( chicharrón in tomato sauce, of which I took a big container home), cacti salad and even quesadillas de sesos (brain-stuffed quesadillas), this place is the real deal. In fact, the cueritos I tried here are the best I have ever had in both, texture and flavor.
Carnitas Uruapan did not disappoint. My stomach was full and happy, and after talking to Inocencio and Marcos, my heart was too.
¡Viva México!
1725 W 18th St Chicago, IL 60608
(312) 226-2654
Claim your free carnitas taco with your to go order and and free order of chicharrón if you check-in on Facebook.
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Chef Paco´s New Rebozo – Oh My God!
Cochinita pibil tacos await you at New Rebozo in Chicago’s Gold Coast. If you visit New Rebozo, chances are that aside from a remarkable meal, you will be delighted by owner Chef Paco’s warm and exuberant personality. After more than 20 years of success at his Oak Park location, where Chef Paco (A.K.A. Francisco López) is already a fixture, this Mexico City native decided to bring his creativity and passion for authentic Mexican food to Chicago’s Gold Coast.
Holy mole! Chef Paco delights his guests with his complex, yet surprisingly down-to-earth mole Poblano, at New Rebozo. Chef Paco equates food to the dynamics of everyday life: “Life can be sweet and sour… even salty, add love to it and you will strike a balance.” His philosophy spills into every corner of his restaurant. There is definitely love in New Rebozo, named after a shawl Mexican women wear. From the cozy fireplace to the thoughtfully picked art, the dining room and patio embrace you like welcoming Mexican embassies. Do not expect to find cultural clichés here. New Rebozo is the real deal both in form and content. “My work is about making people happy,” said Paco. “That’s my ultimate goal.”
Full of flavor, depth and whimsy, it is so fitting that mole is one of Chef Paco´s specialties. Very few words say fiesta and Mexico as loud and clear as mole does, particularly in the countryside, where this traditional dish is served during important celebrations such as weddings and christenings. Chef Paco´s mole Poblano is so good, I have no doubt that my Pueblan grandma, who was often charged with making the mole for her village’s fiestas patronales*, would have approved.
Watermelon mojitos: Oh my God! If you visit New Rebozo, do not miss the cochinita pibil tacos, a delicacy straight from Yucatán. There is a piece of Mexican heaven in every perfectly flavorful bite and they are surprisingly not greasy. The watermelon mojitos are also quite memorable- one sip of those glorious cocktails had my entire table exclaiming in unison: “Oh my God!”
*In Mexico, fiestas patronales are a village’s most important celebration, and are typically dedicated to the patron saint the village is named after.
New Rebozo Chicago
46 E. Superior
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 202-9141
Open Mon-Sun 12-10 pm
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Flock to the Shepherd -The Charismatic Taco al Pastor
Photo courtesy of: El Califa, Mexico City RUTA MEXICANA
Whenever I visit Mexico, there is an additional ‘layover’ between the airport and my parents’ home in a suburb of Mexico City. Stopping for tacos al pastor or ‘shepherd-style’ tacos has become somewhat of an unspoken ritual. Luckily, no matter the time or day of the year, my sister is always prepared with a roster of recommendations that she has carefully curated in my absence. Count on her to rattle off an impressive selection that includes taquerías open on Christmas Day.
Despite the fact that taco stands abound, not all tacos are made equal. Ask any local. Finding the perfect taquería is almost a rite of passage for defeños*, one that speaks to the way we connect with our city and beyond- a Mexican’s relationship with their pastor is emotional… personal.
Photo courtesy of: El Califa. Mexico City, Mexico When Enrico came with me to Mexico for the first time, he joined me in our recently established ritual. We visited a corner taquería where my family knew Chucho*, the taquero. Enrico was a little nervous as he eyed the cilantro and the onion piling over the tender marinated pork meat and pineapple. As a tourist who visits Mexico for the first time, Enrico asked me if the food was safe to eat. Trying to leverage whatever I could think of to reassure him, I said, “You will be fine. The taquero’s name is Jesus!”
He was an instant convert.
I have yet to find a perfect spot in Chicago to have tacos al pastor. Recently, I was crushed to find that some places serve them with cubed meat. I am on a mission to find a place I can recommend!
In the meantime, if you have the good fortune to be in Mexico City, you must check out El Califa. Aside from their outstanding customer service, they are famous for the way they serve the meat and for their freshly-made tortillas.
You will see why I think that this taco is king.
* Defeño is a Citizen of Mexico City (D.F.)
**In Mexico, Chucho is short for Jesús, which is a fairly common name
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Guacamole Nacionalista con Requesón y Granada
Guacamole Nacionalista Foto: Proporcionada y reproducida con el permiso de “Dulce Patria” Según la receta de la chef ejecutiva y propietaria de Dulce Patria, Martha Ortiz
Rendimiento: 2 porciones
Ingredientes:
60 g cebolla blanca picada
160 ml jugo de limón
280 g pulpa de aguacate
40 g cilantro picado
30 g chiles serranos despepitados y picados, o al gusto
10 g granos de granada roja
20 g requesón
Tortillas de maíz fritas cortadas en triángulos, para acompañar
Pan árabe dorado cortado en triángulos, para acompañar
Sal y pimienta, al gusto
Procedimiento:
Desfleme la cebolla en el jugo de limón durante media hora. Escurra y reserve. Machaque cuidadosamente el aguacate en un tazón o molcajete; incorpore el cilantro, la cebolla desflemada y el chile serrano. Sazone con sal y pimienta. Ofrezca el guacamole en un plato vistoso, decorado con la granada roja y el requesón, así como los totopos de maíz y pan árabe.
Encuentra un artículo sobre mi visita a este magnífico establecimiento haciendo click aquí.
Chef Martha Ortiz Chapa
Texto proporcionado por y reproducido con el permiso de Dulce Patria:
“En la obra de Martha Ortiz Chapa confluyen la sensibilidad y el talento. Martha posee una visión sensible de la vida, a partir de la cual inventa nuevos universos. Investigadora y conocedora de la realidad social (materia que estudió de manera profesional), posee un profundo amor a nuestro país y su cultura. En su quehacer cotidiano, ha sabido combinar ambas vertientes, la de la creación, la imaginación, el descubrimiento de novedades bellas, por un lado, y la de los sabores y las costumbres inscritas en las raíces mexicanas. Así, tiene en su haber varios libros de cocina, a la vez que una importante participación en festivales y congresos internacionales.
La trayectoria de Martha Ortiz Chapa brilla con luz propia en un campo esencial de esa historia pasada y siempre presente del país, que es su gastronomía. Pero en su caso no se trata de una obra ni de una cocina convencionales. Ella habita el mundo de la cocina mexicana para disfrutar todos los placeres imaginables que ésta supone, y no sólo en el terreno inagotable de los sentidos sino también en el de su desarrollo y su significado. A la cocinera le encanta platicar historias con sus recetas y adora visitar mercados, así como admirar las colecciones de alta costura más importantes en el mundo. Pasea por museos y disfruta leer, ya muy tarde por la noche, para tener presente lo pictórico en la cocina y los sabores en la palabra, lo cual se refleja en los títulos de sus platillos-cuentos, la gran puesta en escena. De esta manera es a la vez experta en el arte gastronómico e intérprete, informada e imaginativa, de nuestros sabores y tradiciones. Pruebas de tal riqueza son el recinto del restaurante Dulce Patria —iluminado con sabor, sazón y aroma— que Martha Ortiz Chapa dirige exitosamente en la ciudad de México, además de diversos premios y reconocimientos.”
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Once Upon a Plate in Mexico: Fairytale Fare at Dulce Patria
Fish pozole at “Dulce Patria”, Mexico City, Mexico – Photo credit: Brenda Storch RUTA MEXICANA
Whenever I visit home in Mexico City, I wish I could bring it back in a suitcase. Perhaps this is why Dulce Patria resonated so strongly with me. I had limited time at home and many new options available to explore. After much research and careful evaluation, I decided to celebrate my birthday at this restaurant. Two main elements influenced my decision, the fact that Dulce Patria is highly acclaimed chef Martha Ortiz Chapa’s latest creation; and the establishment´s name, which by itself is captivating. “Patria” in Spanish is what “patriotic” in English would be if it were a noun. How perfectly fitting. Dulce Patria spoke to the sweet home country I was physically returning to (I often wander it in my dreams), even if briefly.
Every detail at Dulce Patria has been carefully curated to create an extraordinary experience. Right in the heart of Mexico City’s financial district, an inside patio reminiscent of a hacienda, along with cacti-shaped sculptures, create a new world. Thoughtful touches like starfruit slices in your water, edible flowers and dishes carefully plated on whimsical handcrafts, add to an environment created to make guests feel they have stepped into a different dimension. I was moved to realize that somebody shared my sentiment: Dulce Patria is like a little piece of Mexico that has been taken for safekeeping: chef Martha Ortiz Chapa keeps Mexico in her heart.
Asphalt jungle outside, beautiful patio inside. Photo credit: Brenda Storch And from her heart she speaks and cooks: Ortiz Chapa draws inspiration from Mexican artisans, poetry and art, all ingredients of the edible stories she creatively and passionately tells through her food. Her characters are popular dishes that can be either found in the streets of Mexico, or more elegantly presented at fancier tables. Says Ortiz Chapa about her protagonists, “estos platos son los héroes que nos dieron patria” (these plates are the heroes that have given us our homeland).
Bucket of pepitorias with chamoy salsa. Photo: Brenda Storch 
A twist on chicken with mole sauce: duck with mole sauce. Photo credit: Brenda Storch Mexican folk candy on a whimsical handcraft. Photo credit: Brenda Storch Mentioning that food at Dulce Patria is absolutely extraordinary feels like stating the obvious. Suffice it to say, that at some point during my meal, the gastronomic narrative of chef Ortiz Chapa began feeling less like fantastic prose and more like pure poetry.
Anatole France 100
Col. Polanco
Delegación Miguel Hidalgo
11560 México, D.F.
Teléfono: 3300-3999
Fax: 3300-3955
Horarios: lunes a sábado, de 1:30 pm 11:30 pm.
Domingos: de 1:30 a 5:30 pm.
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A Cup of Magic with a Hint of Baroque
Churros and chocolate at Churrería El Moro – Mexico, City, Mexico
Photo: Brenda StorchRUTA MEXICANA
It was not by coincidence or like we say in Mexico, “de puro churro” * that Churrería El Moro was on my agenda as a place I had to check out this time. I usually visit my family in Mexico City during the holiday season, which makes it almost impossible to make a stop at all the places I either want to go back to, or experience for the first time. This time around, I made sure to move this famous establishment to the top of my list.
I visited El Moro, like locals call it, on New Year’s Day, and I was particularly impressed to find quite a large group of people lined up outside. A look at the menu makes it clear- El Moro masters the alchemy of churros con chocolate, and its simple menu has delighted guests for nearly a century. Here you can find four types of chocolate differentiated primarily by thickness and degree of sweetness. These deliciously baroque concoctions have been simmering to perfection since this legendary café opened in 1935.
Churrería El Moro – Mexico City, Mexico
Photo by: Brenda StorchThe line moved quickly, and after a short wait, we were warmly greeted and escorted to a table by someone so cheerful to see me on a holiday, I almost felt like family. I was delighted to have a front row seat to a performance, as churros were being charmed into delicate wheels of fried dough destined to vanish in a matter of seconds.
The city’s hustle and bustle are part of the décor and the overall experience of this urban, simple and non-pretentious locale: El Moro welcomes locals and tourists from all walks of life.
Growing up in a place like Mexico City, where you can find a cathedral built on top of an Aztec building ( originally built on a lake that is no longer there), I anticipate magic whenever I visit. I have never been disappointed, and this time around, I drank magic in a cup.
*Literally translated as “by virtue of a churro” which means, “accidentally.”
El Moro, Mexico City- Mexico
Photo by: Brenda StorchIf you visit:Don’t be deterred by long lines if you encounter them, they move quickly. The area is busy, but generally safe. Exercise precautions you would observe in any major city. Consider getting your churros to go, as this is also an option. -
Oaxaca: Comida de Dioses (Food of the Gods)
RUTA MEXICANA
Photo credit: Chef Aldo Saavedra. Oaxaca, Mexico In Oaxaca, food is abundant and incredibly diverse. Casual or sophisticated, aside from flavor, chocolate is a delicious common thread in many Oaxacan dishes. Otherwise referred to as “food of the gods” chocolate, from the Náhuatl xocolátl, is one of Mexico´s greatest gifts to the world.Find this chocolate mousse with Pasilla chili powder, caramelized amaranto seeds and an edible flower at Casa Oaxaca. Executive Chef and owner Alejandro Ruiz, delights guests at his downtown Oaxaca establishment with a modern take on Oaxacan cuisine that incorporates local ingredientes such as flowers and insects.This is probably one of the priciest restaurants in the city. A visit, especially if you are planning a trip to the attractions in nearby Mitla or Hierve el Agua is well worth it, though. Casa Oaxaca also offers cooking classes. If you are in town or planning to go, don’t miss the opportunity to check it out. Constitución 104-4, Col. Centro, Oaxaca, Mexico. Call ahead: 01 (951) 516 85 31 -
Drink Your Veggies, Eat your Coffee
This coffee is actually a delicious dessert that should be eaten, not drank. Julio Cortázar is one of my favorite writers. I particularly enjoy the way in which he is able to unravel the story he made you believe he had woven, and then, in one or two sentences, he turns it around to put an entirely new book in your hands.
At the end of the meal, I was presented with an edible menu. This is the menu that I enjoyed. Literally. This came to mind when I visited Moto this weekend. If you have never experienced molecular gastronomy, a style that got notoriety in the land of Dalí, no less, I highly recommend it.
In the heart of Chicago’s meat-packing district, Moto Restaurant, seems understated. It should, as the food at this cozy, chic-yet-unpretentious establishment, is an incredibly stimulating multisensory event for both mind and palate.
From an edible zen garden, to a dessert that looks like egg drop soup complete with an egg yolk that is actually mango, the 15-course meal is an adventure that comes with specially-designed utensils that hold aromatic herbs, and a leather glove smoked with vanilla beans to accompany a treat called “smell the glove”. The aromas, while not in the food, are designed to enhance the flavor of the dish on the plate.
If you plan on going, forget everything you know about food. Really. Moto is like a short story by Cortázar; a place where you know you will be surprised- you will get to drink your veggies and eat your coffee.
Moto Restaurant, 945 W. Fulton Market, Chicago, IL 312.491.0058
