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From the Streets to Stardom: Mexico City’s Michelin-Starred Tacos
Taquerías are the pulse of Mexico City, the heartbeat of its streets. And they’re more than just places to grab a quick bite—they’re small universes that capture the city’s soul. They have their own language and set of rules. As tacos have been embraced worldwide, in Mexico, people continue to fall in love with this cornerstone of their diet—a staple that carries centuries of tradition in every bite. Recently, one of these unassuming spots has crossed into a realm few would have ever predicted: Michelin stardom.
I recently walked into El Califa de León with a mix of curiosity and a healthy dose of skepticism. The taquería sits nestled in a quintessential Mexico City market, buzzing with vendors. We parked right in front, wedging ourselves beside a stand selling shirts emblazoned with the taquería’s logo, proudly displayed alongside the Michelin man—a snapshot of local ingenuity and pragmatic prowess. In this perfect blend of street hustle and global recognition, a tiny taco joint is making waves—and rightfully so.
The first thing that hits you is the unmistakable aroma of sizzling meats and fresh tortillas. You know you’ve arrived at the right spot because, even in the morning, there’s a line. The grill works overtime, and tortillas are made right next to it. The whole place hums with the efficiency and energy of a kitchen that’s mastered its craft, yet it retains the casual vibe of your favorite neighborhood spot. Some people know the people behind the counter by name and proudly make recommendations to visitors snapping photos and videos.
There’s a few options including steak and pork. Ask for the gaonera taco, the place’s crown jewel. Named after a bullfighting pass, and in honor of the taquerías godfather, a bullfighter, this tenderloin-like cut is seasoned with lime and salt and then grilled. One bite, and it’s clear why Michelin came calling. The meat is tender, juicy, smoky—a reminder that sometimes, the best food doesn’t need to shout. It just needs to be done right.
And let’s not forget the salsas. In Mexico City, a good taquería lives or dies by them, and El Califa delivers. There’s heat, there’s depth, and there’s that sense of balance that only comes when a kitchen truly understands its ingredients. I love a good green tomatillo sauce, but the red salsa is popular here—and it’s fantastic.
The tacos disappear as quickly as they’re served, which is a good thing since this tiny stall can barely seat three. You’re in, you devour, you leave. No need to linger.
El Califa de León is proof that street food doesn’t need to compromise to earn its place in the culinary canon. It’s still the kind of place where you sit elbow to elbow with strangers, the hum of the city as your soundtrack. It’s honest, unpretentious, and, above all, downright fantastic.
Michelin stars or not, I’d come back to this place in a heartbeat. Because at the end of the day, the real star here is the food. -
Rediscovering Jaleo: Chef John Borras Brings Spanish Tradition to Life
Chef John Borras, Jaleo´s new executive chef I’ve been to Jaleo a few times before. I know the drill: the colorful atmosphere, the endless parade of small plates, each offering a small window into Spain’s soul. The restaurant, bearing José Andrés’ name, carries a pedigree.
This time, something felt different. The reason? Chef John Borras, who was recently drafted as Jaleo’s executive chef.
If you’ve followed Borras’s culinary journey, as I have for over a decade, you know the kind of power this chef and restaurateur (1492 Tapas and Bar, Macarena) brings to a kitchen. His understanding and reverence for Spanish tradition is undeniable, but what sets him apart is his fearless reinterpretation of it. From the moment I sat down, it was clear he had injected new life into the offerings.
Take the pan con tomate, for instance. It’s a dish that’s as simple as it gets—ripe, fresh tomatoes on bread, with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. But here, it’s different. The bread comes out with a golden crust that’s just the right amount of crunchy and the perfect vehicle for the jamón de bellota, that legendary Ibérico ham from the famed pata negra pigs. These aren’t just any pigs. They’re acorn-fed, free-roaming, the Rolls Royce of pork, if you will. And you can taste the difference. Try the paletilla, which is a cut from the shoulder. The ham is tender and rich, with that perfect marbling that practically melts on your tongue. There’s a deep, nutty flavor from the acorn-based diet that makes this meat unlike anything else. And while you might find Ibérico ham elsewhere in Chicago, I have yet to encounter paletilla like this.
Then, there are the popular and ubiquitous croquetas. When done right, they’re addictive—crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside. At Jaleo, ham croquetas arrive golden and crisp, their centers creamy and almost molten. But it’s the pairing that takes them to the next level. Served with a side of paletilla ham, the combination is nothing short of divine. The contrast of the creamy croqueta interior, the crisp exterior, and the luscious, fatty ham is a perfect marriage of textures and flavors.
When you visit, don’t stop at the classics (though the ham croquetas are a must). Save room for the new dishes Borras has added to the menu—like the ribeye paella or the cachopo, Spain’s answer to Wiener Schnitzel.
Having chef Borras´food so close is such a treat! Let him take you on a culinary tour through Spain with his distinct, masterful touch, a nod to Spain’s love for communal, shareable food.
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Chiles en Nogada: The Dish of a Revolution
Foto: Bertha Herrera para La Vitamina T If you’re fortunate enough to find yourself in Mexico late in the fall, you’ll likely see chiles en nogada gracing many menus. Literally “peppers in walnut sauce,” this seasonal delicacy, originating from the state of Puebla, first made its appearance in the 19th century to celebrate Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Part prayer, part recipe, the lore goes that Augustinian nuns from Atlixco, Puebla, improvised this dish in honor of the Mexican caudillo (and later Mexico’s first emperor) Agustín de Iturbide. He stopped in Puebla on his way to Mexico City after signing the treaty in Veracruz that secured Mexico’s independence. Appropriately, the dish mirrors the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag on the plate.
Part warrior, part angel, chiles en nogada involves stuffing poblano peppers with a mix of meat and fruits, creating a medley of textures with every bite. The dish is topped off with a light, delicious walnut sauce, enhanced with pomegranate seeds, available in central Mexico until mid-September.
Part indigenous, part Spanish, this dish embodies Mexico—it’s like a culinary snapshot, showcasing the nation’s rich contrasts and historical complexities.
Don’t miss the chance to try it.
We recommend:
In Mexico City:
In Chicago:
I wrote an article for Eater Chicago that is periodically updated.
*Military leader
Originally published on 8/11/2013. Updated 9/8/2024.
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ROOP: ROOH’s Ode to Nostalgia
You’ve probably heard the name ROOH whispered by those in the know—the restaurant has been making waves in the city’s culinary scene for a few years now. ROOH has earned its stripes, gaining a “Plate” distinction in the 2020 Michelin Guide and a spot on many discerning foodie lists. Now, the team is taking things up a notch with their latest venture, ROOP—a tasting menu that delivers a journey through memories and places.
Meaning “beauty” in Hindi, ROOP invites patrons to dive into a thoughtful eight-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Rina Mallick, one of the brilliant minds behind ROOH, shared that many of these dishes are deeply connected to nostalgia. The menu draws inspiration from the vibrant streets of India, tapping into the flavors and cultural touchstones that have shaped countless experiences. With the collaboration of Michelin-starred Chef Mike Cornelissen (RijnZicht), ROOP offers an intriguing new take on Indian cuisine.
The menu kicks off with dishes rooted in Indian street food—a flight of pani puri followed by vada, a humble fritter that, according to Mallick, is particularly popular with students, holding a place similar to the one ramen occupies in the hearts of many Western students due to its affordability. For the third course, non-vegetarians will delight in a quick trip to Goa with a sea scallop that is light and flavorful. Caviar can be added as a supplement. We chose to let the flavors of the scallop shine on their own but are excited to try it with caviar next time.
If I had to pick one standout, it’s got to be the lamb served with papaya sorbet. I know, it sounds like something that shouldn’t work—but in the hands of Chef Mike Cornelissen, it’s pure magic. The richness of the lamb, perfectly balanced by the cool, unexpected sweetness of the sorbet, creates a combination that’s as surprising as it is delicious.
And then there’s the chicken royal. The chicken itself is sublime, but if you’re in the mood to treat yourself (and let’s be honest, you’re here, so you should), you can top it with truffle. There’s also a mushroom-based counterpart for those leaning towards a vegetarian meal, and yes, it too can be adorned with truffle.
Many of these dishes are deeply connected to memories, both personal and cultural. As you taste them, you’re transported—not just to the bustling markets of India, but to places in your own memory where flavor and nostalgia intertwine. For me, it’s impossible not to draw parallels to my own experiences with Mexican cuisine—the same addictive dance of sweet, spicy, and acidic that just works. The food in my memories translates every flavor into Spanish: take their guava mocktail, for instance. One sip, and I was instantly reminded of a margarita.
In my opinion, there is no amount of travel or research that can create that gravitational force that the dishes of a mother tongue have over one’s soul. There’s an imprint that the food of our mothers and grandmothers leave, that cannot be artificially recreated, which is why felt lucky to have Mallick as our guide, as she generously explained touches like the mandala—a celebratory and symbolic design used to plate the lamb dish—that could have easily gone unnoticed without her insight. There’s also a bit of fun theatrics– as this culinary journey comes to a close, ROOH ensures the finale is just as memorable as the beginning. The Cracked Egg, where a dessert resembling an egg is cracked on your plate, and the Last Train Station, a nostalgic nod to the chai wallahs of India serving chai in bustling train stations, yet distinctly American in its campfire-style presentation, close out a meal that has taken you from the streets of India to the heart of the U.S.
This connection to memory and place is what makes the ROOP experience so special. It’s not just about what’s on the plate—it’s about where those flavors take you. And the best part? The whole experience is incredibly accessible at just $95 for the tasting menu, with wine pairings for $55.
Alongside this new tasting initiative, ROOH will also introduce a refreshed a la carte menu by Executive Chef Rohit Thaledi, featuring new dishes such as Saag Paneer Kofta, Goan Crab Cakes with Xec Xec Sauce, and Gulab Jamun Cheesecake.
ROOP is available Sunday to Wednesday. Make your reservation on OpenTable.
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Istmo Chicago – A Culinary Bridge to Oaxaca’s Heart
There’s a lot of buzz around Istmo, the new Oaxacan restaurant in Lakeview, and underneath it all, there’s real substance. Istmo bridges traditional Mexican cuisine with a refined and elevated approach, staying true to its roots while embracing a fresh vision.
The southeastern Mexican state of Oaxaca is known for its vibrant culinary traditions, incredible cuisine, and the heartwarming hospitality of its people. The name “Istmo” refers to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, one of Oaxaca’s seven regions. The food is diverse, unique, and equally delicious.
Right now, Istmo is serving lunch and brunch, and it plans to roll out dinner service soon. And believe me, you’ll want to be first in line when they do.
I couldn’t resist the enchiladas, as I’m a sucker for salsa verde, but the enfrijoladas, a dish from the region similar to enchiladas but drenched in a rich bean sauce, also looked tantalizing.
The enchiladas are enveloped in a thick, well-balanced sauce that’s rich and flavorful. While enchiladas are available all over Mexico, chef Carlos López Muñoz (Mexique, Leña Brava) brings this incredible salsa to life with his mother´s recipe, making it a truly special experience. The sauce alone is worth the visit—trust me on this one. Typically, I go for chicken enchiladas, but at Istmo, you can choose from cheese, chorizo, and steak.
We also sampled the huevos divorciados (divorced eggs) served with green and red salsa and enjoyed their hibiscus spritzer, a take on agua de jamaica. Playing on the fragrant cinnamon notes of café de olla and nodding to the Southeast Asian-Mexican fusion trend, Istmo also offers a Mexican chocolate chai.
One dish that truly stands out in my memory is their take on the traditional corn-based jello nicuatole, which I previously could only find at Kie-Go-La Nee, which focuses on food from the Sierra region. At Itsmo, the dish takes on a texture more like crème brûlée, offering a delightful twist on a classic. The plate is decorated with a buñuelo de viento, adding crunch to the creamy dessert. To many, this might only be a crispy and airy delight, but to me, it was a flashback to cherished moments and places.
Service was a bit slow when we published this article, but I assume it will get better as the kinks are worked out. Expect to wait for your food a bit. It will be worth it!
If you’re looking to add some excitement to your lunch or brunch routine, Istmo is the place to be. And keep an eye out for their dinner service—I’m betting it will be nothing short of spectacular.
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Discover Nemi: Where Tradition Meets Modern Snacking
When Regina Trillo arrived in Chicago, she was struck by how Mexican-inspired products and packaging often presented a cartoonish version of Mexican culture and flavors. The imagery lacked depth and accuracy, and she wanted to convey to the world that Mexico is much more than a cliché. Out of this desire, in 2019, Nemi was born. This delicious snack is a testament to Trillo’s commitment to bringing Mexican flavors to the forefront while challenging stereotypes.
At the heart of Nemi is nopal, the prickly pear cactus, a nutritious ingredient often found in Mexican cuisine. Mexicans often identify with this resilient cacti, as it thrives at home and far beyond, even in the most difficult conditions.
I love anything with lime and salt, and I have a thing for a popular Mexican corn snack that packs a punch with its bold flavors. Sadly, my adored snacks are also a calorie bomb loaded with artificial ingredients, unhealthy fats, and enough sodium to make any doctor raise an eyebrow. Finding it in the US is no easy feat, and I am often indulged by visitors who come bearing it as a gift. Imagine my excitement when I stumbled upon Nemi right here in my backyard! Six grams of protein? Whaaaaat?!
Trillo’s brilliance lies in transforming this ubiquitous ingredient into a modern snack that bridges Mexican traditions with current trends—it is health-conscious, kind to the environment, and downright addictive.
Adding to her long list of awards, Nemi’s creator has recently been selected as one of the eight winners in the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition. This initiative is designed to support emerging brands and give them a platform to grow. Nemi’s inclusion is a testament to Trillo’s hard work, creativity, and dedication to bringing Mexican flavors to the mainstream.
“I’m honored to be one of the eight businesses selected to join the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition,” said Trillo. “The Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos Edition is a five-month, mentor-guided program to support emerging food and beverage businesses inspired by Hispanic flavors and culture.”
Reflecting on her journey as an entrepreneur, Trillo shared: “My message is that at the beginning there is fear and uncertainty… and the perfect time to start is usually today!”
Nemi comes in different flavors: Smoky Chipotle, Pickled Jalapeño, Chile Turmeric, Mexican Lime, and Churro. Find Nemi at your favorite local markets, health food stores, and specialty shops across the city, or order online via their website.
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An Epic Tale of Culinary Fusion: Mirra at the Coach House
Mirra1742 W. Division Street
Chicago, IL 60622Just beyond the bustling vibe of Lilac Tiger in Uptown, lies a cozy nook known as the Coach House—a place that feels like stumbling into a secret. Here, James Beard Award nominee chef Zubair Mohajir blurs the lines between #Indian and #Mexican cuisines, spinning a tale as rich and intricate as the story of Mirra, or Caterina de San Juan, the muse behind the Pueblan traditions of the China Poblana. This fascinating tale threads everything together, making each dish a journey that’s as much about the plates as it is about the stories that inspired them.Once we found the entrance, we were promptly escorted to the counter. It is here, among treasures that narrate tales of culinary conquests and personal journeys, that each meal is crafted, transforming the dining experience into something resembling a private conversation. The eatery’s counter isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a place where every dish comes with a backstory.The 5-course journey began with a lentil puff that resembles chicharrón. Rich, crunchy, and a bit cheeky, this is an excellent accompaniment to an incredible scallop ceviche. Next up, we’ve got a sope served with cilantro and spinach chutney, all while sporting a tiger prawn like a crown. Then there’s the roti quesadilla, where the plot thickens. It’s like a handshake between distant lands, proving that when it comes to food, borders are merely lines on a map.
And just when you think it can’t get any better, the lamb barbacoa biryani comes in, a respectful nod to a regional style of barbacoa the Chef encountered during one of his trips to Mexico.Wrapping up the feast, there’s dessert and chai—the kind that tastes like it’s been brewed with a dash of love, straight from chef Mohajir’s grandmother’s kitchen.At $135, plus $60 more if you’re diving into the pairings, this is more than a meal; it’s an invitation to join chef Mohajir on a trip that’s as much about the stories behind the dishes as it is about the flavors. And let me tell you, it’s an invitation worth accepting.The menus change periodically, so there is always fun to discover.Reservations available through Tock.
Scallop ceviche with lentil puff. 
Roti quesadilla
Lamb biryani 
Dessert! Chai tea with cake.
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Taco Omakase: Where Street Food Meets Chef’s Table
Taco de Suadero at Cariño Chicago. Photo: Brenda Storch Omakase, that Japanese tradition which essentially means ‘I’m in your hands,’ feels like getting the VIP nod in a place where everybody knows your name—but here, it’s the chef who locks eyes with you and without a word, promises, ‘I’ve got this.’
Your job? Simply sit back, relax, and let the chef’s choice sweep you off your feet. Now, picture the omakase approach with a twist: taco omakase is a brilliant mash-up where the chef’s table meets the street food scene, each taco a surprise waiting to unravel.
I recently had the chance to dive into this at Cariño in Chicago (check out my article on Eater Chicago), where you can snag one of just seven coveted spots at the counter. Suddenly, you’re in the front row for Chef Norman Fenton’s culinary concert. The setlist? A lineup that swings between 8 and 12 courses, each act more thrilling than the last, all set to the rhythm of Mexico’s underground beats.
Masa shines as the headliner, transforming into an array of show-stopping numbers that each carry a whisper of tradition with a dash of bold. From a Wagyu beef taco with a salsa that will leave you downright speechless to a menu as unpredictable as it is thrilling, the whole experience is a roller coaster ride of comfort, excitement, and outright joy. Chef Fenton’s love affair with Mexican cuisine and overall culture is palpable, making every visit to Cariño (a term for affection in Spanish) not just a meal but an unforgettable journey of discovery and a celebration of cariño at every turn.
The offering is a great deal at $125 per person, which includes 2 cocktails and tip.
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Shared Plates, Shared Stories: A Night at Compartir – Barcelona
Landing at Compartir, straight from the surreal playground of Parc Güell, felt like jumping from one Barcelona dream scene to another. There we were, hearts still thumping to Gaudí’s whimsical beats, when I realized I’d mixed up our reservation dates. Fate, it seemed, had our backs.
I wish I could claim this was my idea. The truth is, we landed at Compartir while chasing a table at Disfrutar, the culinary heavyweight that clinched the second spot on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023. Compartir is Disfrutar’s sister and the third restaurant of chefs Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro, and Eduard Xatruch. The group spent two decades in the trenches of El Bulli, Ferran Adrià’s legendary lab of gastronomy, where the impossible was made possible on a plate. Given the team’s credentials, we knew we were in for a treat, and the meal did not disappoint.
The service is warm and attentive, and the menu shows its traditional soul, ingeniously intertwined with the avant-garde techniques the trio is famed for. Cocktails are fantastic!
With its soulful decor and mind-bending menu, Compartir captures the very spirit of Barcelona—a city that’s all about art, warmth, and, with its food, above all, sharing.
Lamb shoulder in confit 
Mushroom, sausage and ham paella
Pickled Sardines Marinated in Purple Carrot and Coconut
Cod fritters with honey foam and Ibérico ham with tuna croquettes
Liquid chocolate-filled chocolates with boysenberry sorbet -
Find Culinary Gold at Barcelona’s Maleducat
We waltzed into Maleducat in #Barcelona without a reservation – talk about rolling the dice. Fortunately, luck was on our side, and we scored one of the few tables at this local favorite. The service? Spot-on. It’s like they’ve mastered the art of making you feel right at home, even when you’re miles away from it.
@maleducat is a champion of culinary insurrection, blending and bending grandma’s recipe with a menu that’s a wild ride of tapas and heartier plates meant to be shared. While we tried dishes made with ingredients that we never imagined seeing together on a plate, like their beef tendon and fish, we mostly stuck to a few of the staples (croquetas de jamón, paletilla ibérica, to name a few) in the spirit of continuing to calibrate our baseline. This place stuck in my memory as the best jamón de bellota we had during our trip. Hailing from the Rolls-Royce of pork—the Pata Negra breed— these pigs are fed a diet of acorns, endowing the meat with a mind-blowing texture and flavor.
Maleducat is more than just a name; it’s an entire experience that invites you to indulge in the joy of breaking bread with a merry band of locals and international gourmands alike. Because, well, this is Barcelona, where every meal is a chance to make new friends and taste the world.
If you’re in town, take a chance like we did – it might just be your best bet of the night.
Maleducat – San AntoniCarrer de Manso, 54, Barcelona, 08015Spain -
Unforgettable Dining at Celler de Can Roca
I’m excited to share with you in a little more detail our recent visit to the legendary Three-Michelin Star Celler de Can Roca in Girona, which is, without a doubt, a bucket-list-worthy experience and my favorite destination of 2023
The restaurant is a testament to the talent, passion, and know-how of the Roca brothers- head chef Joan Roca, sommelier Josep Roca, and pastry chef Jordi Roca. Embodying the values passed down from their parents– authenticity, hospitality, and generosity, this family team offers a journey through Catalan flavors with an innovative twist in an atmosphere that is sophisticated but warm and unpretentious.
The restaurant’s décor is organic, with plenty of natural lighting and a beautiful courtyard that welcomes guests as they arrive. We were greeted by a hostess and immediately seated at a table by a floor-to-ceiling window. Our area was divided by a console, making the space feel more like we were in our dining room. The service was nothing short of outstanding, with a dedicated team of savvy 2-3 team members ensuring a delightful and seamless experience throughout our visit.
From its creative cuisine to its exceptional wine list and pairings, it is no wonder why Celler de Can Roca has received national and international acclaim for decades. The dining experience is a spectacular balancing act between innovation and tradition. The ever-changing menu features locally sourced ingredients that speak of the region’s cuisine with an avant-garde play on textures and temperatures. Under Jordi Roca’s expert hand, desserts are whimsical creations that amuse the palate and the imagination.
There are two menu options, one featuring twelve dishes and three desserts and an abridged one with five dishes and two desserts. We were already there, so we went big. We also enjoyed the magnificent, thoughtful pairings.
Booking a table at Celler de Can Roca is no small feat, and we owe a huge THANK YOU to our friends who made this dream a reality. If you ever get the chance to dine here, plan ahead. The calendar opens 11 months in advance, and the restaurant is closed for a few weeks a year. If you are lucky to snag a spot, take it!
And while in Girona, take the time to explore the town’s medieval charm. Stroll through the cobblestone streets that once set the scene for #GameofThrones. Girona is an impressive destination in its own right, but just keep in mind that finding transportation can be a bit tricky as this is a small city. We explored on foot and eventually connected with a local taxi company. Speaking Spanish was definitely a plus in navigating! We recommend arranging transportation ahead of time.
Meeting the celebrated pastry chef Jordi Roca was a fantastic end to our visit. Getting to snap a few photos with him is a memory I’ll treasure forever.
Here are some snapshots of our culinary adventure.
Carrer de Can Sunyer, 48, 17007 Girona, Spain
Price (at publication)
Feast menu: €250
Pairing (optional) €130
Tasting menu: €215
Pairing (optional) €85
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Celebrating Día de Reyes with Mexico’s Rosca de Reyes
Photo: Expendio Tradiciòn, Oaxaca, Mèxico via Azucena Suárez Much like piñatas, which symbolize victory over sin through faith, the tradition of sharing Rosca de Reyes in Mexico to celebrate Día de Reyes or Three Kings Day is, at its core, an evangelizing tool that recounts the story of the three kings arriving in Bethlehem to meet baby Jesus. There is significant religious symbolism in this bread, which is reminiscent of the French Galette des Rois. For instance, its shape represents endless divine love, and the hidden plastic babies within the bread symbolize baby Jesus hiding from Herod. Families typically share Rosca de Reyes early in January, often on the night of the 5th. The bread is usually adorned with fruit and sugar, resembling the jewels on the kings’ crowns, and it is enjoyed with coffee or hot chocolate.
The person who finds the plastic baby in their slice of bread is traditionally responsible for providing tamales and atole to everyone in attendance at the gathering on February 2nd. This custom refers to the practice of presenting infants at the temple 40 days after birth. Tamales are a nod to pre-Hispanic offerings, and the date aligns with a pre-Hispanic holiday where corn was blessed.
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Unveiling My Top Eats of 2023
2023 was incredible to us in unsuspected and meaningful ways!
As the year draws to a close, I can’t help but reflect on the unforgettable culinary journey we embarked on this year that went way beyond the streets of #Chicago.
Here is a quick recap and a list of my top three favorites:
1. Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain
2. Apron in Vienna, Austria
3. Gaudir in Mexico City, Mexico.
A Delicious Melange
Our year started with bubbles and a waltz in Vienna, where I fell hard for melange- a very light cappuccino-like drink. Coffee always seems to be consistently mind-blowing here, and I have not found anything quite like it outside of Vienna. Beyond the beans, I believe the secret might be in the quality of the city’s water. Food in Vienna surprised us by being equally fantastic, affordable, AND ubiquitous. I developed a taste for street-side Wiener schnitzels and sampled the array of sausages available. There is definitely pastry prowess in the city, and I visited Gerstner for cake and spiked coffee many, many times during our stay. Many of the most popular places in Vienna have long waiting lines. Consider this as you plan your visit. We discovered that Gerstner has an impeccable operation and is conveniently located right across from the Opera House.
We celebrated my birthday at Apron, which was a revelation. Set against the backdrop of the city’s historic charm, this restaurant offers a modern interpretation of Austrian cuisine. The elegance of its décor matches the sophistication of its dishes. I am partial to unpretentious excellence, and Apron excels at this. Each course was a masterpiece, meticulously prepared and exquisitely presented, showcasing the best of Austrian flavors and seasonal ingredients with a contemporary twist. Service is absolutely world-class, and there’s an open kitchen, so you can feel like you are part of the action. Don’t miss it if you ever visit! It won’t disappoint.
Apron is exciting, fun, and approachable. Some Stops in the U.S.
In the U.S., we got to visit Atlanta, where we remember a fascinating Persian meal at Rumi’s Kitchen with friends. Later, we returned to my old stomping grounds in Memphis, where I missed the barbecue this time but went for the legendary popovers at Paulette’s. We made a stop in Nashville, where we waited for hours for the Maíz de la Vida taco truck to start serving their delicious birria consommé and tacos.
We also traveled to Santa Barbara, where we most memorably had a bespoke picnic by the ocean at the Rosewood and enjoyed asada tacos at famous (and on Julia Child’s favorite list) La Super Rica.
Later, our travels would take us to the incredible Barcelona. I had no bad meals in this beautiful city and fell hard for Vermouth to the point I had to import a few bottles from Celler del Remei. I discovered Suizos, thick chocolate with clotted cream, at historic La Pallaresa; we enjoyed delicious fried boquerones and wine from barrels at La Plata and sampled award-winning establishments like Paradiso and Maleducat, which I still have to write about. All FANTASTIC! Barcelona, by the way, has a legit #taco game!
The Unforgettable El Celler de Can Roca
BUT, the #1 highlight of 2023 was the unforgettable we made to one of the best restaurants in the world, three-Michelin star Celler de Can Roca in Girona. Renowned for its creative approach to Catalan cuisine, the Roca brothers’ knowledge and passion for gastronomy is evident in every dish, which was, at the same time, a feast for the taste buds and visual art. At the end of the meal, we met celebrated pastry chef Jordi Roca, who generously let us take a few pictures with him. I will hold this experience dear to my heart forever. The place is impossible to book, and rightfully so. We were lucky to have a little help from some friends. THANK YOU! If you visit, set some time aside to explore the medieval city of Girona, which serves as a backdrop to some scenes in #GameofThrones. Girona is a tiny city, and finding transportation is not that easy, so it is best to plan ahead. We had to walk quite a bit and eventually found a local taxi company. Luckily, Spanish is my mother tongue, but it took some effort.
Bucket-list worthy, El Celler de Can Roca is worth a visit. A Taste of Catalunya in México City
The holidays took me home to Mexico City, where I visited a mix of all-time favorites, new restaurants, and taco stands like El Vilsito in Colonia Narvarte; we particularly loved Raíz and the famous Cantina Limantour. I will write about these later! The culinary highlight of our trip to México City was Gaudir in Colonia Anzúres. The tiny little restaurant stood out with its traditional recipes (yes, I was looking for a Catalunya fix). Mexico is such a rich culinary destination, and I always go for Mexican cuisine when I am there, but I am so glad I strayed this time! Our Catalán friends recommended this destination and helped us arrange a party for Enrico with a special menu featuring oxtail cannelloni and a foie gras bite so delicate and delicious that we have been remembering for days. This place is newer, and it is not located in any of the leading food corridors, so go before it is discovered if you are in #CDMX
Gaudir surprised us with their refined execution of traditional Catalonian recipes. A big shout out to all of our friends, old and new, and to our families for making this year an unforgettable one, and while we are looking back with profound gratitude for all the gifts we received this year, we do not forget for a second that people around the world are suffering.
What are your favorite culinary experiences of 2023?
May 2024 bring you and yours much peace, wisdom, health, and abundance.
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Rosca de Reyes – A Slice of Gospel and Tradition #Recipe
Photo Credit: “El Deleite”. Often used as evangelizing tools, celebrations in Mexico feature elements that are charged with symbolism. Take the piñata, for example, used as an allegory of sin (colorful and appealing on the outside, yet hollow and empty on the inside). Still today, during parties, people are blindfolded (a nod to faith being blind) when facing the piñata, which will yield fruits once fought and defeated.
The Rosca de Reyes (cake of kings) is no exception. Even as I type, kids who have been taught to expect the arrival of the three kings or magi, during Epiphany have already gone to bed with the hopes of finding gifts by their shoes when they awake. This festivity marks the culmination of the “12 Days of Christmas”.
Rosca de Reyes is shaped and decorated as if it were a crown. Inside, little figurines representing baby Jesus while in hiding from Herod can be found. Whomever discovers the figurine it their slice of rosca gets to share their good fortune- they will buy tamales for the group on February 2nd, to celebrate the presentation of Christ at the temple.
Without even knowing it, tradition is celebrated and perpetuated in a delicious slice that is typically enjoyed with a cup of hot chocolate.
Yanet Hernández Tabiel, owner of “El Deleite”, a bakery in Mexico City, shared her popular recipe with La Vitamina T readers.
Ingredients:
- 1 tbsp of yeast
- 5 1/2 cups of flour
- 1/2 cup of sugar
- 1 tbsp of vanilla extract
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup of milk
- 3 eggs
- 3 egg yolks
- 3/4 cup of butter
- 1 1/2 cups of crystallized fruit
- 1/2 cup of warm water
- 5 plastic “muñequitos de rosca” (plastic rosca dolls). These can be substituted with large beans.
For the butter crumble:
- 1 cup of butter
- 1 cup of sugar
- 1 egg
- 1 tbsp vanilla extract
Instructions:
- Combine the yeast with one of the tablespoons of flour and the warm water. Let rest for 1o mins. or until it’s foamy
- Combine the remaining flour with the sugar, vanilla extract, salt and milk in a mixing bowl. Mix until incorporated. Add the eggs and the yolks.
- Continue mixing until smooth. Add the yeast and mix until you have a smooth, and flexible ball.
- Add the butter and continue mixing until fully incorporated.
- Add the mix in a bowl and cover it with a damp cloth. Keep at room temperature until it doubles in volume.
- Make a dimple with your finger and knead.
- Extend the dough into a rectangular shape, add the crystallized fruit and the plastic dolls. Twirl to form a crown shape.
Crumble and Decoration
- Mix the butter with the sugar, eggs and the vanilla extract
- Decorate the rosca with strips of this mix.
- Glaze your rosca with the eggwash and decorate it with crystallized fruits
- Bake for an hour at 375 degrees or until golden brown
Enjoy!
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Tamales y Atole: Corazón de Maíz y Alma de la Fiesta
Foto: Bertha Herrera para La Vitamina T. Copyright © 2019. All Rights Reserved. Se aproxima una de las fechas con mayor arraigo en México, el Día de la Candelaria. Una fecha donde se festeja con los ricos tamales, sin olvidar los infaltables atoles
POR MARICHUY GARDUÑO/ FOTO: BERTHA HERRERA
De fresa, guayaba, mamey, avena, y el tradicional champurrado, el atole es una de las bebidas con mayor arraigo en el pueblo mexicano. Por ello, este 2 de febrero no puede faltar esta bebida para acompañar los tamales y festejar en grande con familiares y amigos.
Los registros históricos mencionan que esta preparación ya se realizaba desde tiempos prehispánicos, donde se elaboraba con maíz.
De hecho, Sebastián Vertí en su libro clásico de la Navidad en México que, maíz y cacao eran los ingredientes principales de las bebidas prehispánicas en dosis y combinaciones variables y con agregado de diversos aderezos y miel.
DIVERSAS PREPARACIONES
“Los atoles se preparan hoy como hace muchos siglos, con maíz cocido, molido y disuelto en agua. Actualmente, todas las clases sociales exaltan las virtudes de su sabor y consistencia”, expresa Vertí.
El autor agrega que esta bebida acompaña tamales o panes dulces, los atoles se sirven en tazas o en tazones y siempre calientes. Justamente para que no se enfríen, se vierte en un cucharón directamente de la olla de barro o de peltre donde se preparan.
En cada región de México los preparan de maneras diferentes. Las recetas que consignamos dan una idea de las posibles variaciones. Todos son de sencillas preparaciones.
En la República Mexicana se encuentran atoles con diversos productos que crean un gusto diferente. En Morelos y Guerrero los elaboran de piña y ciruela, en Veracruz de coco, y de zarzamora en tierras michoacanas los hay maíz blanco o de changunga, que es una frutilla, como él nanche.
Champurrado de chocolate
PARA 20 PORCIONES
Ingredientes:
1 ½ litros de agua
1 raja de canela
150 gramos de azúcar
150 gramos de masa de maíz para tortillas
2 tablillas de chocolate de metate de 90 gramos cada una
1 cucharadita de concentrado de vainilla
1 HORA DE PREPARACIÓN
Poner a hervir el agua, canela y azúcar. Aparte diluir la masa en agua fría. Añadir al agua hirviendo la masa, ya diluida. Mezclar constantemente. Trozar el chocolate y añadir a la mezcla anterior. Dejar a fuego lento, mezclando constantemente por aproximadamente 20 minutos. Añadir la vainilla. Checar la consistencia en líquido y azúcar, dejar hervir, retirar y servir.
Para deleite de nuestros lectores, tenemos el placer y la buena fortuna de publicar el trabajo de nuestras colaboradoras, la periodista Marichuy Garduño y la fotógrafa Bertha Herrera. Encuentren más sobre estas pioneras del periodismo gastronómico en México en su página www.conapetito.com.mx
Marichuy Garduño
Periodista gastronómica con 25 años de experiencia. Ha trabajado en los suplementos culinarios de los diarios más importantes de México como Buena Mesa, Reforma; Menú impreso y Online, de El Universal. Actualmente es editora de Pimienta, Excélsior.
A lo largo de su carrera, Marichuy ha entrevistado a varias personalidades del medio gastronómico, de la política y la literatura, entre los que destacan Enrique Olvera, Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, Alicia Gironella, Massimo Bottura, Gastón Acurio, Alex Atala, Robert Mondavi, Carlos Monsiváis, Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas, Elena Poniatowska y Jacobo Zabludovsky entre otros.
Bertha HerreraComunicóloga de profesión, fotógrafa por convicción. Chilanga de nacimiento, oaxaqueña de corazón. Adicta a capturar imágenes, a resaltar las texturas de las cosas y de las personas. A lo largo de 23 años ha retratado grandes personajes vinculados con la gastronomía, la arquitectura, la moda, el diseño, la cultura, se ha especializado en la fotografía gastronómica, tomando cursos de food styling en en el Culinary de Nueva York.
Ha trabajado en dos de los periódicos más importantes de México como son El Reforma y El Universal, y ha colaborado para revistas relacionadas con estilos de vida, como El Gourmet, Chilango, In Style, Ha sido testigo de la transformación que ha habido dentro de la gastronomía mexicana. Para su lente han posado iconos de la cocina mexicana como Carmen Ramírez Degollado, Patricia Quintana, Alicia Gironella, Giorgio D´ Angeli, Mónica Patiño y grandes cocineras tradicionales como Abigail Mendoza, Deyanira Aquino, Benedicta Alejo. También destacados chefs como Ferran Adrià, René Redzepi , Joan Roca, Massimo Botura Juan Mari Arzac , e infinidad de personajes famosos del mundo del espectáculo, la moda, la arquitectura, la cultura.
Como dice la canción “veinte años no es nada”, pero para ella han sido un cúmulo de experiencia en el ha conocido y viajado. Bertha ha hecho la fotografía para tres libros relacionados con la gastronomía. El libro acerca del chile es el que más emoción le ha causado.
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Chiles en Nogada: Un Plato que Grita Independencia
Foto: Lissette Storch – Ciudad de Mèxico Literalmente chiles en salsa de nuez o “nogada”, este plato se atribuye a la creatividad culinaria propia del estado de Puebla, y se dice que los chiles en nogada fueron servidos por primera vez en el siglo XIX para celebrar la independencia de México.
Mitad plegaria, mitad receta, cuenta la historia que las monjas agustinas de Atlixco, Puebla, improvisaron este platillo en honor del caudillo Agustín de Yturbide, quien durante su viaje a la Ciudad de México desde Veracruz, se detuvo en Puebla tras firmar el Tratado de Córdoba. Este documento establecía la independencia de México, es por eso que los colores del Ejército Trigarante, y ahora también los de la bandera mexicana, están representados en este plato.
Mitad guerrero, mitad ángel, esta delicia exige que al chile poblano se le de vida con un corazón hecho a base de carne, frutas y semillas disponibles en México durante el mes de septiembre, incluyendo pera, durazno, manzana y piñón. Para rematar, la salsa de nuez que le da nombre al plato es muy delicada, y está acentuada con semillas de granada.
Mitad indígena, mitad español, esta creación es completamente mexicana y no puedes dejar de probarla.
En caso de que quieras recrear esta joya culinaria en casa, nuestro amigo, el chef Moisés Salazar, nos deleita con esta receta. El chef nos dice que como este platillo siempre es un éxito, generalmente él no cocina otro plato salado.
Rinde para 8-12 personas.
- Limpia 20 chiles para rellenar.
- Seca el interior de los chiles y rellénelos con el picadillo. Si
sientes que el picadillo es muy pesado o los chiles están muy
abiertos, ciérralos con un palillo
PICADILLO
Ingredientes:
• 3/4 de taza de aceite de maiz
• 6 dientes de ajo cortados por la mitad
• 1 taza de cebolla finamente picada
• 2 lbs de carne de cerdo molida (pasada por el molino una sola vez)
• 2 cucharaditas de sal
• 1 taza de agua
• 3 cucharadas de aceite de maíz
• 2 lb de jitomate licuado y colado
• 1/2 taza de almendras peladas y partidas por mitad
• 3/4 taza de pasitas negras picadas
• 20 aceitunas verdes enjuagadas y cortadas en cuatro
• 2 cucharadas de perejil fresco finamente picado
• 4 clavos de olor
• 1 vara de canela de 3 cm de largo
• 1 oz granos de pimienta negra
• 1/4 taza de aceite de maíz para freír las frutas
• 4 tazas de manzana en cubitos
• 4 tazas de peras en cubitos
• 4 tazas de duraznos amarillos en cubitos
• 1 cucharada de azúcar
• 2 tazas de aceite para freír los plátanos
• 4 tazas de plátano macho en cubitos
• 1 taza de acitrón en cubitos (1 cuadro de acitrón)
• 3oz de piñones rosas, pelados
• 2 cucharadas de vinagre blancoProcedimiento:
- En 1/4 de taza de aceite fríe 2 dientes de ajo hasta que queden
totalmente dorados (deséchelos); acitrona la cebolla, añade la carne,
la sal y el agua, tapa y cuece todo hasta que la carne esté tierna,
aproximadamente 5 minutos. Destapa para que toda el agua se evapore y
de ser posible la carne se dore un poco. - En otro sartén, calienta las otras 3 cucharadas de aceite, dora 2
dientes de ajo y deséchalos. Acitrona la cebolla restante, añade el
jitomate y deja sazonar, agrega las almendras, las pasas, las
aceitunas y el perejil, y deja sazonar la mezcla por 2 minutos. - Muele el clavo, la canela y las pimientas, añádaselos al jitomate y
retira el sartén del fuego. - Añade la mezcla de jitomate a la carne y deja que se sazone por 5
minutos, retira del fuego. - En otro sartén, calienta el otro 1/4 de taza de aceite, dora en él 2
ajos, deséchalos y fríe la manzana, la pera y el durazno, tapa y deja
que se frían y cuezan. No dejes que se deshagan, la fruta debe quedar
entera. Añade el azúcar y en el caso de que las frutas estén ácidas,
añádalas más azúcar, pues la mezcla debe ser dulce. - Por separado, fríe el plátano hasta que se dore ligeramente, reserva
el aceite sobrante para freír los chiles. - Mezcla con la carne las frutas, el plátano, el acitrón, los piñones
y el vinagre. El picado no debe quedar deshecho.
CAPEADO
Ingredientes:
• 12 huevos, separados claras de las yemas
• 1/4 de taza de harina
• 2 cucharaditas de sal
• 1 taza de harina para revolcar los chiles
• 2 tazas de aceite de maíz (más el que reservó para freír los plátanos)Procedimiento:
El chef sugiere que el capeado se haga en dos etapas, sobre todo si quien cocina tiene
poca experiencia.- Bate las claras hasta que hagan picos suaves, añade las yemas, la sal
y el 1/4 de taza de harina. Bate hasta que todos los ingredientes
estén incorporados. - Revuelqua los chiles en la harina y quítales el exceso golpeándolos
con la mano suavemente, pues sólo sirve para que se adhiera bien el
huevo. - Calienta el aceite con el que freíste el plátano en un sartén amplio
(conforme vayas necesitando más aceite, añádelo). Deja que humée
ligeramente; sumerge los chiles en el huevo y fríelos uno por uno. - Mientras se dora ligeramente la parte de abajo del chile, con la ayuda
de una pala o espátula, baña la parte de arriba para que éste se dore y
no sea necesario voltearlo. Si no tienes experiencia, voltéalo.
Escúrrelos sobre servilletas de papel para quitarles el exceso de
grasa del capeado. Manténlos tibios o a temperatura ambiente y
reserve.NOGADA
Ingredientes:
• 1 taza de almendras peladas y remojadas en agua
• 5 tazas de agua fría
• 1 lb grs de queso de cabra o de queso fresco
• 8 tazas de nueces de Castilla limpias (2.5 lbs aprox)Procedimiento:
- De preferencia remoja las almendras una o dos noches con antelación
con agua fría y manténlas en el refrigerador. Nota como al hidratarse,
aumentan de tamaño y adquieren un tono color marfil. Esto hace que su sabor se
haga muy parecido al de la nuez fresca. - Mezcla todos los ingredientes en un tazón, excepto el agua, licúa la
mitad de la mezcla y luego la otra para evitar que se derrame el vaso
de la licuadora, utiliza el agua necesaria, utilizarás casi toda,
aunque la salsa no es aguada y debe tener consistencia (esta receta es
exacta, por lo que se recomienda no alterar las cantidades).
PRESENTACIÓN
Ingredientes:
• 2 granadas rojas desgranadas (2 tazas de granos)
• Ramas de perejil para adornarProcedimiento:
- Coloca los chiles en un platón.
- Baña parcialmente los chiles con la
nogada, pues se debe ver algo de capeado. - Adorna con las hojas de
perejil y la granada.
El chef Moisés Salazar es un mexicano experto en Alta Cocina, dedicado al catering corporativo y privado. Su pasión lo ha llevado desde Belize, donde estuvo a cargo de delegaciones diplomáticas de la Embajada de México, Estados Unidos y varios países centroamericanos, hasta Atlanta, donde colaboró en el famoso St. Regis. Encuentra más información sobre el chef Moisés Salazar y su contribución al mundo de la gastronomía en su sitio web: www.chefmoises.com
Haz click aquí para encontrar otra magnífica receta para hacer chiles en nogada, inspirada por las monjas de la órden de las Clarisas, quienes se dedican a elaborar este platillo desde 1924.Originalmente publicado el 18 de julio del 2016.
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Maíz de La Vida: Donde Quiera Que Haya un Mexicano, Hay Tortillas
“Sin Maíz no Hay País”, como bien dice el dicho, y a donde quiera que haya un mexicano, seguro hay tortillas.Recientemete tuvimos la fortuna de platicar con Julio Hernández, del celebrado destino Maíz de la Vida en Nasvhille, Tennesse. Julio nos contó cómo es que lo que empezó como una tortillería informal durante la pandemia, se ha convertido en un establecimiento nominado para un de los más prestigiosos reconocimientos en el ámbito culinario.Encuentra el video de la entrevista aquí:
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La Cocina Rebelde de Sor Juana #SRYC
Como parte de nuestro ciclo dedicado a la #mujer en “Sazón, Razón y Corazón”, les compartimos nuestra charla con la gastrónoma internacional, la chef Victoria del Ángel. Del Ángel nos habló sobre la erudita mexicana, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz, quien retó el privilegio masculino, y cuyo acervo fue reconocido por la Unesco en 2019 como “Memoria del Mundo: patrimonio impreso de los siglos XVII al XXI.”
Además de su extraordinaria contribución literaria, Sor Juana era una excelente cocinera. En su recetario, ella nos regala una joya de la cocina conventual mexicana, así como una ventana a su intelecto, su creatividad, y su cocina de resistencia y desafío.
Fotos: Chef Victoria del Ángel. Óleo de Jorge Sánchez
First published in March 15, 2019
