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Rediscovering Jaleo: Chef John Borras Brings Spanish Tradition to Life
I’ve been to Jaleo a few times before. I know the drill: the colorful atmosphere, the endless parade of small plates, each offering a small window into Spain’s soul. The restaurant, bearing José Andrés’ name, carries a pedigree. This time, something felt different. The reason? Chef John Borras, who was recently drafted as Jaleo’s executive chef. If you’ve followed Borras’s culinary journey, as I have for over a decade, you know the kind of power this chef and restaurateur (1492 Tapas and Bar, Macarena) brings to a kitchen. His understanding and reverence for Spanish tradition is undeniable, but what sets him apart is his fearless reinterpretation of it. From the moment I sat down, it was clear he had injected new life into the offerings. Take the pan con tomate, for instance. It’s a dish that’s as simple as it gets—ripe, fresh tomatoes on bread, with a drizzle of…
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Chiles en Nogada: The Dish of a Revolution
If you’re fortunate enough to find yourself in Mexico late in the fall, you’ll likely see chiles en nogada gracing many menus. Literally “peppers in walnut sauce,” this seasonal delicacy, originating from the state of Puebla, first made its appearance in the 19th century to celebrate Mexico’s independence from Spain. Part prayer, part recipe, the lore goes that Augustinian nuns from Atlixco, Puebla, improvised this dish in honor of the Mexican caudillo (and later Mexico’s first emperor) Agustín de Iturbide. He stopped in Puebla on his way to Mexico City after signing the treaty in Veracruz that secured Mexico’s independence. Appropriately, the dish mirrors the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag on the plate. Part warrior, part angel, chiles en nogada involves stuffing poblano peppers with a mix of meat and fruits, creating a medley of textures with every bite. The dish is topped off…
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ROOP: ROOH’s Ode to Nostalgia
You’ve probably heard the name ROOH whispered by those in the know—the restaurant has been making waves in the city’s culinary scene for a few years now. ROOH has earned its stripes, gaining a “Plate” distinction in the 2020 Michelin Guide and a spot on many discerning foodie lists. Now, the team is taking things up a notch with their latest venture, ROOP—a tasting menu that delivers a journey through memories and places. Meaning “beauty” in Hindi, ROOP invites patrons to dive into a thoughtful eight-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Rina Mallick, one of the brilliant minds behind ROOH, shared that many of these dishes are deeply connected to nostalgia. The menu draws inspiration from the vibrant streets of India, tapping into the flavors and cultural touchstones that have shaped countless experiences. With the collaboration of Michelin-starred Chef Mike Cornelissen (RijnZicht), ROOP offers…
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Istmo Chicago – A Culinary Bridge to Oaxaca’s Heart
There’s a lot of buzz around Istmo, the new Oaxacan restaurant in Lakeview, and underneath it all, there’s real substance. Istmo bridges traditional Mexican cuisine with a refined and elevated approach, staying true to its roots while embracing a fresh vision. The southeastern Mexican state of Oaxaca is known for its vibrant culinary traditions, incredible cuisine, and the heartwarming hospitality of its people. The name “Istmo” refers to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, one of Oaxaca’s seven regions. The food is diverse, unique, and equally delicious. Right now, Istmo is serving lunch and brunch, and it plans to roll out dinner service soon. And believe me, you’ll want to be first in line when they do. I couldn’t resist the enchiladas, as I’m a sucker for salsa verde, but the enfrijoladas, a dish from the region similar to enchiladas but drenched in a rich bean sauce, also looked tantalizing. The…
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Discover Nemi: Where Tradition Meets Modern Snacking
When Regina Trillo arrived in Chicago, she was struck by how Mexican-inspired products and packaging often presented a cartoonish version of Mexican culture and flavors. The imagery lacked depth and accuracy, and she wanted to convey to the world that Mexico is much more than a cliché. Out of this desire, in 2019, Nemi was born. This delicious snack is a testament to Trillo’s commitment to bringing Mexican flavors to the forefront while challenging stereotypes. At the heart of Nemi is nopal, the prickly pear cactus, a nutritious ingredient often found in Mexican cuisine. Mexicans often identify with this resilient cacti, as it thrives at home and far beyond, even in the most difficult conditions. I love anything with lime and salt, and I have a thing for a popular Mexican corn snack that packs a punch with its bold flavors. Sadly, my adored snacks are also a calorie bomb…
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An Epic Tale of Culinary Fusion: Mirra at the Coach House
Mirra The Coach House by Zubair Mohajir 1742 W. Division Street Chicago, IL 60622 Just beyond the bustling vibe of Lilac Tiger in Uptown, lies a cozy nook known as the Coach House—a place that feels like stumbling into a secret. Here, James Beard Award nominee chef Zubair Mohajir blurs the lines between #Indian and #Mexican cuisines, spinning a tale as rich and intricate as the story of Mirra, or Caterina de San Juan, the muse behind the Pueblan traditions of the China Poblana. This fascinating tale threads everything together, making each dish a journey that’s as much about the plates as it is about the stories that inspired them. Once we found the entrance, we were promptly escorted to the counter. It is here, among treasures that narrate tales of culinary conquests and personal journeys, that each meal is crafted, transforming the dining experience into something resembling a private…
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Taco Omakase: Where Street Food Meets Chef’s Table
Omakase, that Japanese tradition which essentially means ‘I’m in your hands,’ feels like getting the VIP nod in a place where everybody knows your name—but here, it’s the chef who locks eyes with you and without a word, promises, ‘I’ve got this.’ Your job? Simply sit back, relax, and let the chef’s choice sweep you off your feet. Now, picture the omakase approach with a twist: taco omakase is a brilliant mash-up where the chef’s table meets the street food scene, each taco a surprise waiting to unravel. I recently had the chance to dive into this at Cariño in Chicago (check out my article on Eater Chicago), where you can snag one of just seven coveted spots at the counter. Suddenly, you’re in the front row for Chef Norman Fenton’s culinary concert. The setlist? A lineup that swings between 8 and 12 courses, each act more thrilling than the…
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Shared Plates, Shared Stories: A Night at Compartir – Barcelona
Landing at Compartir, straight from the surreal playground of Parc Güell, felt like jumping from one Barcelona dream scene to another. There we were, hearts still thumping to Gaudí’s whimsical beats, when I realized I’d mixed up our reservation dates. Fate, it seemed, had our backs. I wish I could claim this was my idea. The truth is, we landed at Compartir while chasing a table at Disfrutar, the culinary heavyweight that clinched the second spot on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023. Compartir is Disfrutar’s sister and the third restaurant of chefs Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro, and Eduard Xatruch. The group spent two decades in the trenches of El Bulli, Ferran Adrià’s legendary lab of gastronomy, where the impossible was made possible on a plate. Given the team’s credentials, we knew we were in for a treat, and the meal did not disappoint. The service…
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Find Culinary Gold at Barcelona’s Maleducat
We waltzed into Maleducat in #Barcelona without a reservation – talk about rolling the dice. Fortunately, luck was on our side, and we scored one of the few tables at this local favorite. The service? Spot-on. It’s like they’ve mastered the art of making you feel right at home, even when you’re miles away from it. @maleducat is a champion of culinary insurrection, blending and bending grandma’s recipe with a menu that’s a wild ride of tapas and heartier plates meant to be shared. While we tried dishes made with ingredients that we never imagined seeing together on a plate, like their beef tendon and fish, we mostly stuck to a few of the staples (croquetas de jamón, paletilla ibérica, to name a few) in the spirit of continuing to calibrate our baseline. This place stuck in my memory as the best jamón de bellota we had during our…
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Unforgettable Dining at Celler de Can Roca
I’m excited to share with you in a little more detail our recent visit to the legendary Three-Michelin Star Celler de Can Roca in Girona, which is, without a doubt, a bucket-list-worthy experience and my favorite destination of 2023 The restaurant is a testament to the talent, passion, and know-how of the Roca brothers- head chef Joan Roca, sommelier Josep Roca, and pastry chef Jordi Roca. Embodying the values passed down from their parents– authenticity, hospitality, and generosity, this family team offers a journey through Catalan flavors with an innovative twist in an atmosphere that is sophisticated but warm and unpretentious. The restaurant’s décor is organic, with plenty of natural lighting and a beautiful courtyard that welcomes guests as they arrive. We were greeted by a hostess and immediately seated at a table by a floor-to-ceiling window. Our area was divided by a console, making the space feel more like…
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Celebrating Día de Reyes with Mexico’s Rosca de Reyes
Much like piñatas, which symbolize victory over sin through faith, the tradition of sharing Rosca de Reyes in Mexico to celebrate Día de Reyes or Three Kings Day is, at its core, an evangelizing tool that recounts the story of the three kings arriving in Bethlehem to meet baby Jesus. There is significant religious symbolism in this bread, which is reminiscent of the French Galette des Rois. For instance, its shape represents endless divine love, and the hidden plastic babies within the bread symbolize baby Jesus hiding from Herod. Families typically share Rosca de Reyes early in January, often on the night of the 5th. The bread is usually adorned with fruit and sugar, resembling the jewels on the kings’ crowns, and it is enjoyed with coffee or hot chocolate. The person who finds the plastic baby in their slice of bread is traditionally responsible for providing tamales and atole…
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Unveiling My Top Eats of 2023
2023 was incredible to us in unsuspected and meaningful ways! As the year draws to a close, I can’t help but reflect on the unforgettable culinary journey we embarked on this year that went way beyond the streets of #Chicago. Here is a quick recap and a list of my top three favorites: 1. Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain 2. Apron in Vienna, Austria 3. Gaudir in Mexico City, Mexico. A Delicious Melange Our year started with bubbles and a waltz in Vienna, where I fell hard for melange- a very light cappuccino-like drink. Coffee always seems to be consistently mind-blowing here, and I have not found anything quite like it outside of Vienna. Beyond the beans, I believe the secret might be in the quality of the city’s water. Food in Vienna surprised us by being equally fantastic, affordable, AND ubiquitous. I developed a taste for street-side…
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Rosca de Reyes – A Slice of Gospel and Tradition #Recipe
Often used as evangelizing tools, celebrations in Mexico feature elements that are charged with symbolism. Take the piñata, for example, used as an allegory of sin (colorful and appealing on the outside, yet hollow and empty on the inside). Still today, during parties, people are blindfolded (a nod to faith being blind) when facing the piñata, which will yield fruits once fought and defeated. The Rosca de Reyes (cake of kings) is no exception. Even as I type, kids who have been taught to expect the arrival of the three kings or magi, during Epiphany have already gone to bed with the hopes of finding gifts by their shoes when they awake. This festivity marks the culmination of the “12 Days of Christmas”. Rosca de Reyes is shaped and decorated as if it were a crown. Inside, little figurines representing baby Jesus while in hiding from Herod can be found.…
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Tamales y Atole: Corazón de Maíz y Alma de la Fiesta
Se aproxima una de las fechas con mayor arraigo en México, el Día de la Candelaria. Una fecha donde se festeja con los ricos tamales, sin olvidar los infaltables atoles POR MARICHUY GARDUÑO/ FOTO: BERTHA HERRERA De fresa, guayaba, mamey, avena, y el tradicional champurrado, el atole es una de las bebidas con mayor arraigo en el pueblo mexicano. Por ello, este 2 de febrero no puede faltar esta bebida para acompañar los tamales y festejar en grande con familiares y amigos. Los registros históricos mencionan que esta preparación ya se realizaba desde tiempos prehispánicos, donde se elaboraba con maíz. De hecho, Sebastián Vertí en su libro clásico de la Navidad en México que, maíz y cacao eran los ingredientes principales de las bebidas prehispánicas en dosis y combinaciones variables y con agregado de diversos aderezos y miel. DIVERSAS PREPARACIONES “Los atoles se preparan hoy como hace muchos siglos, con…
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Chiles en Nogada: Un Plato que Grita Independencia
Literalmente chiles en salsa de nuez o “nogada”, este plato se atribuye a la creatividad culinaria propia del estado de Puebla, y se dice que los chiles en nogada fueron servidos por primera vez en el siglo XIX para celebrar la independencia de México. Mitad plegaria, mitad receta, cuenta la historia que las monjas agustinas de Atlixco, Puebla, improvisaron este platillo en honor del caudillo Agustín de Yturbide, quien durante su viaje a la Ciudad de México desde Veracruz, se detuvo en Puebla tras firmar el Tratado de Córdoba. Este documento establecía la independencia de México, es por eso que los colores del Ejército Trigarante, y ahora también los de la bandera mexicana, están representados en este plato. Mitad guerrero, mitad ángel, esta delicia exige que al chile poblano se le de vida con un corazón hecho a base de carne, frutas y semillas disponibles en México durante el mes…
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Maíz de La Vida: Donde Quiera Que Haya un Mexicano, Hay Tortillas
“Sin Maíz no Hay País”, como bien dice el dicho, y a donde quiera que haya un mexicano, seguro hay tortillas. Recientemete tuvimos la fortuna de platicar con Julio Hernández, del celebrado destino Maíz de la Vida en Nasvhille, Tennesse. Julio nos contó cómo es que lo que empezó como una tortillería informal durante la pandemia, se ha convertido en un establecimiento nominado para un de los más prestigiosos reconocimientos en el ámbito culinario. Encuentra el video de la entrevista aquí: Fotos: Cortesía de Maiz de la vida taco truck
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La Cocina Rebelde de Sor Juana #SRYC
Como parte de nuestro ciclo dedicado a la #mujer en “Sazón, Razón y Corazón”, les compartimos nuestra charla con la gastrónoma internacional, la chef Victoria del Ángel. Del Ángel nos habló sobre la erudita mexicana, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz, quien retó el privilegio masculino, y cuyo acervo fue reconocido por la Unesco en 2019 como “Memoria del Mundo: patrimonio impreso de los siglos XVII al XXI.” Además de su extraordinaria contribución literaria, Sor Juana era una excelente cocinera. En su recetario, ella nos regala una joya de la cocina conventual mexicana, así como una ventana a su intelecto, su creatividad, y su cocina de resistencia y desafío. Fotos: Chef Victoria del Ángel. Óleo de Jorge Sánchez First published in March 15, 2019
